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Old 01-25-2011, 01:36 PM   #1
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What to do? Floor rotted.

I just gutted my 75 Trade Wind. The floor is fine except the streetside front. Do I replace the entire panel or can I splice in a panel.
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Old 01-25-2011, 01:50 PM   #2
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does not look all that bad to me. First thing is to fix the leak and be sure it is dried up. If you have the sofa in the front you might even be able to just put a piece of plywood over what is there (once it is bone dry) If it is rotten you might be able to drill some holes and treat it with the wood restorer epoxy. And If you need to take a piece out it looks to me like you could just put in a smaller patch instead of doing the whole front. If I did the whole thing I would want the belly pan off and the interior walls cut open to access the elevator bolts in the channel.
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Old 01-25-2011, 01:56 PM   #3
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Patch It!

I would just clean out all of the rotted wood, making sure you get it all out of the "C" channel. Cut a clean edged rectangle out and make a patch. Make sure to fix the leak.
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:18 PM   #4
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At first glance I would agree that splicing in a new piece would be the way to go. Pretty small area.
Since its gutted pull the trim off the wing windows and check for water leaks there. Both of mine were leaking.
Also had a segment seam that had opened up and was leaking down on top of the left wing adding to the problem.

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Old 01-25-2011, 05:46 PM   #5
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I would just fix that small section. You will have to remove the lower wall sections to access the bolts in the c-channel. A very handy tool for cutting the floor along the frame rails and outrigger is the vibrating type multi-tool like the Multimaster. The kerf is very small with these type tools and you can follow down the rails without and danger. Harbor Freight has one for $39. It is was worth it's weight in gold (well not really) when I removed a couple of small rotted sections in my 68 Trade Wind.
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 TWind View Post
Harbor Freight has one for $39.
I went for the more expensive one from HF with the variable speed. When I got to the register the clerk told me if I got the extended warranty I would get 20% off. The warranty was less than 10% and the tool actually cost me less than if I hadn't taken the warranty. Go figure. I agree that it's a great little tool. Gets into all kinds of tight spaces.
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:18 PM   #7
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Fix leak, Patch it and carry on.
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:29 PM   #8
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Thanks guys. I was worried about structural integrity. I know that this is a small area but it does go from beam to beam. I was thinking I'd cut in about 16 inches by about 40 inches. That would keep the patch work under the cabinets and away from walking. I'm thinking now about just doing about 12 by 30 or so. I plan on doing a floating floor in it as well so that will spread load too.
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:00 PM   #9
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I just sectioned mine. I respect people who go to more work than I did for similar results. Makes me all warm and fuzzy.
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:16 PM   #10
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If you cut the old out on top of the frame members it is much easier to properly attach the new piece. You just use self tapping floor screws and drive them into the frame. The joints where old meets new will be on top of frame members. That is where the multi tool really shines. You can stay on the rails, exactly in the middle and get right up to the wall. Can't do that with a circular saw.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:20 PM   #11
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So what about flexing in between the rails? I haven't measured but there's a good 16 or more inches. To those who have patched in, is there give or flexing where the two panels meet between rails? This is mostly mute cuz it's all gonna be under cabinets, but I'm still curious
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:15 PM   #12
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Make a gusset

You won't be standing on that section of the floor from what I can see. When you cut the plywood to make the patch. Cut the long side with the grain that shows on the surface. I wouldn't recommend using OSB. You can also cut a gusset board the length of the opening on the long side. Make it about 3" wide, slip it into the hole and under the old floor about 1 1/2" and fasten it to the underside of the old floor. There should be a lip to lay your new piece on. It will be supported on all sides, the lip I just mentioned, the "C" channel opposite of the lip and the frame members on each end.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:06 AM   #13
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Thanks Twinkie. That's exactly what I was thinkin.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:42 AM   #14
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You're going to hate me.

One tip - Before you obstruct any inner liners from being removed or pried up from the floor get the true condition of the outriggers & hold-downs verified. I told you you were gonna hate me.

While you are there with a gutted trailer, ease the bottom liners up and tighten (replace) the Outrigger to C channel bolts, even if it means busting open and folding down the belly wraps like flower petals. Sadly, one needs to access both ends of those bolts.

I found bent & broken outriggers without fasteners and the ones that were still there were very loose from the plywood 'crushing' over time and the iron bolts rusting merrily away for 10's of years. The more I think about my 27' 1973 the more I think its a candidate for shell-off to compensate for the beatings its taken AFTER weathering and accidents should have forced a rehab that never happened until now.
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