Interior walls sweating in cold

[dznf0g]

This is a pic of right after plugging it in. It actually started out at 200W but by the time I got the camera ready, it went up to 206W. Compressor driven devices have a tendency to rise in power need and consumption until full operating pressure is achieved in the freon system.


This is after about 10 minutes of running. It seemed to stabilize here. It is still running and I will only repost if it changes significantly.

I am concerned that yours is that high. It APPEARS to me there may be an obstruction in the freon line on the high side of the orifice. I am still totally unclear why you have that "brownout" scenerio. This high pressure possibility could also result in you noise issue. I'd call your vendor and explain your situation. Maybe point them here. See if you can exchange the unit.

[dznf0g]

OK, it settled in at 213 watts and never changed. I definitely think you have an obstruction ro binding motor or compressor. 700W peak and almost double while running.....something is wrong. Call the vendor ASAP. And I would unplug it.

[masseyfarm]

The major cause of the problem of condensation in an Airstream appears to be answered in this thread.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f483...ml#post1090291

[dznf0g]

Wait! You do have model AD250, right? Reason I ask is there is no "fan only" setting. If your compressor is shutting off and coming back on, that's another indication of high "head" pressure.

[BrandonJenna]

Yes it is the model AD250. I haven't seen it peak to 700 or even reach 400 other than that one time but you are probably right, I should unplug it. Should I contact the manufacturer or the company I purchased it from online?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by BrandonJenna

Yes it is the model AD250. I haven't seen it peak to 700 or even reach 400 other than that one time but you are probably right, I should unplug it. Should I contact the manufacturer or the company I purchased it from online?

You've had it such a short time, I would call the vendor for an exchange and be firm in that request. If it was a year old I'd go to the mfr.

Who is the online vendor? Never hurts to let them know that we have been discussing them on the forum and their remedy will be seen by many who have a need for a compact dehumidifier and have the means to purchase. Get my drift?

[Wabbiteer]

Umnn - an oil slug of the refrigerant oil having separated out in a long unused and cold dehumidifier or even refrigerator can/will trip the compressors internal temperature limit switch or throw the supply circuit breaker. The compressor section gets staggered by trying to compress or pump out the oil when it is expecting a gas - a normal operating condition if its once every year or so.

Was the dehumidifier mechanisms at 70~°F when you first powered it up? The internal freon plumbing is finely tuned to the usual household comfort temperatures for energy efficiency & economy - yes you can use it down to 35 to 40°F once its warmed up but starting it cold after letting it sit for may show just what you observed.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

Umnn - an oil slug of the refrigerant oil having separated out in a long unused and cold dehumidifier or even refrigerator can/will trip the compressors internal temperature limit switch or throw the supply circuit breaker. The compressor section gets staggered by trying to compress or pump out the oil when it is expecting a gas - a normal operating condition if its once every year or so.

Was the dehumidifier mechanisms at 70~°F when you first powered it up? The internal freon plumbing is finely tuned to the usual household comfort temperatures for energy efficiency & economy - yes you can use it down to 35 to 40°F once its warmed up but starting it cold after letting it sit for may show just what you observed.

Good point. I assumed this occurred during the constant running during the last week(s). Did I assume incorrectly?

1) When did you note the 700 W peak and 400W run? At first startup? Or after some extended running?
2) What is your wattage during "normal" operation?
3) Is the compressor turning on and off (fan only) during normal operation at room temperature?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Good point. I assumed this occurred during the constant running during the last week(s). Did I assume incorrectly?

1) When did you note the 700 W peak and 400W run? At first startup? Or after some extended running?
2) What is your wattage during "normal" operation?
3) Is the compressor turning on and off (fan only) during normal operation at room temperature?

4) You discussed an increase in noise. Can you be more specific? At room temp?

[Wabbiteer]

What is the current state of running? 213 watts is at that +/-10% threshold that may be usual and normal until the unit has 50 or 100 hours run time...

Umnn - an oil slug of the refrigerant oil having separated out in a long unused and cold dehumidifier or even refrigerator can draw enough amperage to trip the compressors internal temperature limit switch or throw the supply circuit breaker. The compressor section gets staggered by trying to compress or pump out the oil when it is expecting a gas - a normal operating condition if its once every year or so. To be sold these days the sealed compressor will have a thermal cut-out, if that didn't engage with that coincidental hot metal odor etc. you should be good to go.

Was the dehumidifier mechanisms at 70~°F when you first powered it up? The internal freon plumbing is finely tuned to the usual household comfort temperatures for energy efficiency & economy - yes you can use it down to 41°F once its warmed up but starting it cold after letting it sit for may show just what you observed.

Maybe this is too much information but I once had to place burning alcohol wicks on the exposed condenser coils on the back of an old refrigerator-freezer to get the freon-oil refrigerant circulating before the compressor would start & stabilize - it was however 20°F in an outbuilding where I was trying to safely store the body of our family dog after the Vet had put it down - no toss it in the vet clinics dumpster burial please! With a snap spring storm and near blizzard conditions I had to delay burying it for a week. Heck, to get it to the outbuilding I had to make a sledge and drag it half-a-mile across glare ice and snow when the car couldn't make it off the county road. :::sigh::: Stories like that I couldn't make up if my life depended on it.

[dznf0g]

Wabbiteer, don't confuse my machine's numbers with Brandonjenna's. MINE is the one running at 213W in the pics. 213W, as you said is perfectly normal for a pretty new unit and well within the norm of a rated appliance. Mine is fine and runs like this:

1) Unit has no dehumidistat nor fan nor speed switches. It is either on or off. The compressor should run at all times unless there is a start up temp, oil separation etc. issue.

2) Wattage starts off a little lower (200W) and as pressure builds, it stabilizes at 213W and compressor runs all the time until shut off by manual switch.

What bothers me about Brandonjenna's is:

1) Odd behavior of AS electrical circuit WITHOUT a circuit breaker tripping
2)High continual (?) operational wattage and an extremely high peak wattage....after running for an extended period of time in a warm trailer?????
3) Comment that it ran only at 20W with fan only. This is not normal unless thermal breaker(?) or high pressure switch (?) in compressor has tripped. Warmed up machine in a warm room???????

None of this, if it was not a cold machine in a cold room seems at all normal to me. With you?

[GeocamperAS]

This is not meant to offend anyone but Wow this thread opens my eyes to being careful what info we listen to.

I could go on about the many inaccuracies, in this thread, about how a dehumidifier works but that is not the point of my input.

I do agree that ‘Brandonjenna’s dehumidifier is running at a much higher wattage than normal and should be replaced.
I agree that he should contact the place of purchase first and if they will not exchange it then contact the manufacturer.

What has not been addressed is his problem with the outlets shutting off.
I have heard of GFI’s tripping and circuit breakers tripping. But I have never heard of outlets shutting off.
We need a detailed explanation of the outlet issue.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by tiger

This is not meant to offend anyone but Wow this thread opens my eyes to being careful what info we listen to.

I could go on about the many inaccuracies, in this thread, about how a dehumidifier works but that is not the point of my input.

I do agree that ‘Brandonjenna’s dehumidifier is running at a much higher wattage than normal and should be replaced.
I agree that he should contact the place of purchase first and if they will not exchange it then contact the manufacturer.

What has not been addressed is his problem with the outlets shutting off.
I have heard of GFI’s tripping and circuit breakers tripping. But I have never heard of outlets shutting off.
We need a detailed explanation of the outlet issue.

I think I have asked that twice. I don't know and asked others to chime in. Doesn't sound like anything I've ever heard before, in an RV nor home.
Why don't you point out those inaccuracies?

[Wabbiteer]

Thanks for separating the data sets - it is challenging to follow braided threads!

The compressor can cycle on/off when ambient temperatures and low humidity reduces water vapor condensing out - that condensation has a warming effect to condenser coils and affects freon pressures etc. etc. To restate this, the amount of water molecules adding its extra heat energy slows down and the now too-cold coils trigger an anti-frost circuit that drops the compressor and allows the fan to act as defroster. There is a surplus of liquid freon still vaporizing for a while and the cold coils continue to grab water for most of the compressor shut-down period.

If it is a 2012 model presenting utility power line drop outs on normal loading I think I hear a warranty appointment with your favorite AS dealer calling.

I haven't seen it peak to 700 or even reach 400 other than that one time

If that was first run out of the box it may be normal - a replacement may display the same behavior.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

Thanks for separating the data sets - it is challenging to follow braided threads!

The compressor can cycle on/off when ambient temperatures and low humidity reduces water vapor condensing out - that condensation has a warming effect to condenser coils and affects freon pressures etc. etc. To restate this, the amount of water molecules adding its extra heat energy slows down and the now too-cold coils trigger an anti-frost circuit that drops the compressor and allows the fan to act as defroster. There is a surplus of liquid freon still vaporizing for a while and the cold coils continue to grab water for most of the compressor shut-down period.

If it is a 2012 model presenting utility power line drop outs on normal loading I think I hear a warranty appointment with your favorite AS dealer calling.

If that was first run out of the box it may be normal - a replacement may display the same behavior.

Looking at the wiring diagram I do see a "sensor" connected to the compressor relay. doesn't say what kind of sensor....high pressure??? Shoulda known that. Poster wasn't clear when the high wattages occurred. I was under the impression it was later in the week and associated with an increase in noise. Never got that cleared up. I need to go back and read again.

[dznf0g]

Went back and reread. Sounds like the 700W was at startup when new, but hasn't seen it over 400W since????? The pic show 395W, I assume that was later in the week. I still maintain that's way too high. Mine only has maybe 4 or 5 hours on it and it's at 200W at startup and 213W running.
What else can cause high power draw, besides high freon pressure, or a compressor/motor issue?

As far as the AS outlets "going dead" for a few minutes without popping breakers, the only thing I could fathom is perhaps loose wiring connections at the breaker box???? But wouldn't Brandon see the wattage drop on the Kill-a-watt if either the amperage or voltage drop off...or is it happening suddenly, similar to a breaker popping?

[GeocamperAS]

Brandon has two problems. May or may not be related.

1. We agree that the dehumidifier needs to be replaced.

2. The outlets are "shutting off". What ever that means.

Brandon:
Please explain.
A. Are the outlets in question the ones the dehumidifier and heater plugged into?
B. Do any other outlets stop working?
C. Are they all on the same circuit? (ie circuit breaker)
D. Are they GFI ? (have the little reset button)


I hate to jump the gun here and speculate before we have more info.
But if the two problems are related, 'dznf0g' may be on to something. A loose wire.
The higher the current draw, the warmer the wires get. Heat causes expansion and contraction. Therefore, where the wire meets the screw, if not tight enough it could make contact when cool and separate when warm.

HOWEVER we do need more info from Brandon to narrow this down.

[dznf0g]

In his/her (not sure if it's Brandon or Jenna speaking) first post say "all" the outlets. If that's true, I'd suspect the supply lines upstream of the breaker box....but we really do need more info.

[BrandonJenna]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

You've had it such a short time, I would call the vendor for an exchange and be firm in that request. If it was a year old I'd go to the mfr.

Who is the online vendor? Never hurts to let them know that we have been discussing them on the forum and their remedy will be seen by many who have a need for a compact dehumidifier and have the means to purchase. Get my drift?

The vendor is http://www.air-n-water.com/ and so far they were pleasent on the phone. The you women referred me to their online return form which I filled out on Sunday and am awaiting a response.

[BrandonJenna]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

Umnn - an oil slug of the refrigerant oil having separated out in a long unused and cold dehumidifier or even refrigerator can/will trip the compressors internal temperature limit switch or throw the supply circuit breaker. The compressor section gets staggered by trying to compress or pump out the oil when it is expecting a gas - a normal operating condition if its once every year or so.

Was the dehumidifier mechanisms at 70~°F when you first powered it up? The internal freon plumbing is finely tuned to the usual household comfort temperatures for energy efficiency & economy - yes you can use it down to 35 to 40°F once its warmed up but starting it cold after letting it sit for may show just what you observed.

The temperature was roughly between 55 and 62 °F. The first time I ran it was in the house at 70 °F .