1967 fridge gets cold on 110V, but not on gas

[aircooled4]

I have the fridge out of our 67 Safari to bench test it. (and remove the odor of 'age' ) It gets plenty cold 110, but with gas, nothing. The ingnitor (flint type) didnt work, so i started it with a match...it stays lit...controls and thermocouple seem to be just fine...flame looks good...but no cold. Has anyone take apart the 'chimney' above the flame/burner? I think Im going to attempt to clean this out and see it if makes a difference....

[Pahaska]

You may have low propane pressure. I had that trouble until I adjusted my regulator. If there is much less than 11" of propane pressure at the test port, it cools poorly or not at all.

One other thought, this is an old unit with a standing pilot, you may be seeing the pilot flame and it may not be going into high flame.

[Lumatic]

Yes the chimney can cause the problem.

I don't know about 67, but on my 71 there is no separate pilot and main burner flame. It's the same flame and it's either on or off.

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by aircooled4

I have the fridge out of our 67 Safari to bench test it. (and remove the odor of 'age' ) It gets plenty cold 110, but with gas, nothing. The ingnitor (flint type) didnt work, so i started it with a match...it stays lit...controls and thermocouple seem to be just fine...flame looks good...but no cold. Has anyone take apart the 'chimney' above the flame/burner? I think Im going to attempt to clean this out and see it if makes a difference....

On the 67 the burner oriface will plug up with rust particals from the chimney tube. Take the burner apart, blow out the oriface, then it will work fine.
I run something like a gun cleaner up and down the chimney to clean out the rust and that will last for a year or so.

[aircooled4]

Ive only got the one flame...i hooked it up directly to the tank (no regulator) could that be a problem? Im thinking not...? heres a pic of the flame...

[aircooled4]

and its been running forabout 15 hrs now...

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by aircooled4

Ive only got the one flame...i hooked it up directly to the tank (no regulator) could that be a problem? Im thinking not...? heres a pic of the flame...

There is such a small difference between on and off with the flame that you can't tell from looking at it. Undo that big nut at the base of the burner and you will see specks of rust sitting on the oriface hole.

[aircooled4]

Thanks...ill try that later today!

[TouringDan]

Shacksman is correct. debris in the jet/gas line is usually the reason that there is not enough flame for the refer to cool properly.

Dan

[HansenClan]

I have a 65, and I had the same problem, worked on 110, but no cooling on propane. After much reading, I learned that there is a baffle that hangs down in the "convergent chamber". In english, as the heat from the flame travels up the tube, it comes in contact with a supsended baffle. That baffle is suspended in the chamber and redirects the heat into the portion of the system that does the cooling (can't remember the specifics). So, if that baffle is not hanging in the correct position, it will not work on propane, but will on electricity. When I finally got to the back of my refer, my baffle had bounced off of it's hangy thingy mu-bobber, and all I had to do was re-hang it...

Your flame looks great, and as long as the flame is centered in the tube, the refer works on 110, then there is no reason it should not work on propane...

Hope helps, feel free to contact me with any questions...

Greg

[Jim in Pima]

I don't think running it on "tank pressure" is the greatest idea in the world. with a regulator the pressure is 1/2PSI (or 11 inches of water) Tank pressure is much higher.
Take the advice and clean the burner and orfice.

[Lumatic]

Not only is it not a good idea (you are using the fridge in a way it is not designed and could damage it) It's dangerous

Originally Posted by aircooled4

Ive only got the one flame...i hooked it up directly to the tank (no regulator) could that be a problem? Im thinking not...? heres a pic of the flame...

[aircooled4]

Ya know, after if disassembled it, cleaned the orifice, blew out ALL the dirt,scrubbed the inside of the tube w/a 12ga shotbun cleeaning brush...it wouldnt light with the no-regulator way i had it hooked up...Instaled a small regulator, it lit nicely. In a matter of 2 hrs it was nice adn cold! Yay.

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by aircooled4

Ya know, after if disassembled it, cleaned the orifice, blew out ALL the dirt,scrubbed the inside of the tube w/a 12ga shotbun cleeaning brush...it wouldnt light with the no-regulator way i had it hooked up...Instaled a small regulator, it lit nicely. In a matter of 2 hrs it was nice adn cold! Yay.

You'll find that with that model of burner that you will have to clean it a couple of times a year. Latter models had a burner with the oriface on it's side so that rust couldn't fall in the hole.

[Thealt]

I just started on my 67 safari's fridge and have the same issue. No Manometer to test the pressure, so will have to seek one out, but it's been a few years since it was used on Gas only. Quite honestly I'm not sure I ever confirmed it worked on Gas other that it lit those lights.
Flame looks about like the ones above. Perhaps a tad weaker.

I do have a question on the thermostat.
1) How many turns do you typically get from min to max? I can turn the dial @ 3 revolutions before it maxes out. Presently I don't see any change in the flame when doing this. After reading the post above it doesn't appear I will, but would expect some change.
2) Does this thermostat only control Gas? I'm assuming so, but there was some rigging done with a replacement in the cool box that makes me wonder if the bottom one (gas) failed and the gas system was bypassed for electric only. I suspect two (1 for electric and 1 for gas), but never seen one mentioned in the cooling box.

Thanks in advance... Alt

[Thealt]

Update on my post above.
Using a homemade manometer, I connected it to one of the range burner regulators.
Turned on the gas, opened that valve and had @ 12 inch pressure.
Opened some other valves on the range which dropped the pressure to 9.5. then when closed the system stabilizes around high 11 or 12.
Cleaned the burner in denatured alcohol for a few hours and reinstalled.
Freezer has been running on gas @ 2 hours and is cold. Fridge not so much, but will stop the test. switch to shore power and let the unit run overnight. I will then check the temp tomorrow on both and if acceptable, switch to gas and let that run @ 1 day. Then recheck.

Know I need a new regulator as there is a small leak at the tank selector. Its an old single stage and needs updating.

Alt