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Old 10-04-2019, 11:35 AM   #1
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1962 19' Globetrotter
clinton , Tennessee
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Whats first? Axle or Belly Pan & Subfloor?

Hello-Brand new here, we have a 1962 Globe Trotter 19 that we just purchased a few weeks ago. We are planning on replacing the subfloor and belly pan and I was wondering what my sequence should be. Should we replace the axle first and then do the subfloor/belly or the other way around? We are also planning on using the POR-15 rust system on the frame itself, so again, where does this fall into the sequence?

Side note, I will be having someone else replace

If this has been answered before I apologize, I did try to use the search function but couldn't find an exact answer.

Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2019, 02:00 PM   #2
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1986 31' Sovereign
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I would start on the belly pan/subfloor project. That way you don’t have a significant materials outlay right up front and will get a set of eyes on the “bones” of the trailer.

A lot of folks dive into one of these projects and eventually become overwhelmed and give up, a near 60 year old trailer will need a lot of tic. Best to not have a pile of cash in it if you eventually hit that wall...
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Old 10-04-2019, 04:00 PM   #3
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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I would suggest you pull the belly pan first. That will give you a better idea if any frame repairs are needed. If repairs are needed, and they are adjacent to the axle, the repairs and axle replacement may be more economical to do at the same time. (Based on the idea the axle needs to be removed to do frame repairs.) I am assuming your torsion rod axle needs to be replaced.

If frame repairs are necessary, that area of the sub-floor should to be removed for the repairs to take place.

Photos of the sub-floor and frame would be helpful.
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:11 PM   #4
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1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix , Arizona
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I would do the axles last. The rubber in a torsion axle has a service life. If you install a new axle and the trailer sits for a long time while other parts are being repaired that is not good for axle.

And know that very early years of torsion axles were welded on. Like your trailer.

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Old 10-08-2019, 10:19 PM   #5
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1966 22' Safari
saint louis , Missouri
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Also don't pull the belly pan unless it must be replaced. Mine is a '66 and belly pan pretty good! it would be a lot of work for me to pull it off. Zillions of rivets! If you are new need to understand what an undertaking this is if you cannot flip the whole thing over. Think about laying on your back replacing....
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:24 PM   #6
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1966 22' Safari
saint louis , Missouri
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Vintage says pull it but since you are doing a full gut job, you will know the status of your frame w/o dropping belly pan during your floor gut. You also have a shorter trailer, they have a lot less problems for rot than the larger trailers you read about. Could be totally wrong, also depends on storage and upkeep, location, ect. Good luck.
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:38 PM   #7
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1999 34' Excella
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Hillsboro , Texas
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Lift and cribbage the AS so you can safely work beneath. You want to get enough height .. ideally so you can sit up underneath.. but most folks crawl underneath and do the work... to each their own...

Remove Bellypan.. make sure you use protection! There are nasty things which you do not want to breathe, get in your eyes, ears, etc..
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:48 AM   #8
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1959 26' Overlander
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The corners of the bellypan are a royal pain to replace. The best thing to do is keep at least the outer foot for a template. It could save you hours of frustration.

Great trailer to restore!
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