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Originally Posted by goatlocker
Hello, all. Anyone own the 5000W Predator? I am considering buying this generator, but the height is 20.8 in. which means that it is slightly over a height by .5 in. I would not be able to close my bed tonnue cover.
Question: Can the wheels be easily removed from this unit? If so, this would allow me to close my bed cover and securly locked away.
Thank you  |
I’ve not tried it (don’t own this model) but by appearance, the plastic wheels have plastic hub-caps which look like they can be “popped off” and the wheels likely removed. If you never intend to use the wheels, simply cut them off with a hack saw.
As for ethanol use in small generators:
Most of the small generators carburetors have a metal “bowl” with a drain-plug (10mm) which can be used to drain the carburetor of unburned fuel after shut-down. I have a dozen small engines (mostly chinese copies of Hondas) and the use of ethanol gas in them is fine….IF you run them out of gas and drain the carb bowls.
======== I also spray a “shot” of WD40 up into the carb bowl while I have the drain plug removed, for long term storage. Never a problem next season.
Ethanol is a form of alcohol and is used as an oxygenate in modern gasoline to meet EPA standards for most cars. Unfortunately, alcohol attracts humidity in the air and results in water and corrosion in the carb bowl…even if only minute amounts are left in the carb bowl after shut down.
There are several ways to solve this problem: Use non-ethanol fuels…. OR…if you use E15 ethanol (regular unleaded 87 octane gas) run the engine out of gas, then drain the carb bowl (and I recommend the shot of WD40 up into the bowl before reinstalling the drain plug)… and ALWAYS use a fuel stabilizer such as STABIL per the instructions on the bottle.
My personal use of generators is with a Predator 8750 primarily for home emergency use and to run my 240 volt welder away from the shop out on the ranch…. and I also have a Coleman ProForce 2875 (surge) 2300 watt contractor type generator. (See pic).
Back-Story: In Jan ‘09 Pep Boys Auto Parts was secretly dumping merchandise preparatory to shutting-down their retail stores and offered these little Colemans normally priced at $600 for $159…. so I bought one without much hope for it’s longevity. It has fooled me. I’ve run it hard now for 13 years and it has given me almost no trouble… other than when on a trip camping at Hot Springs, AR when a storm shut the campground electrical grid down I ran it all night to run the AC to deal with the hot, humid after-effects of the storm. When morning arrived the little Coleman had shut down on it’s own.
It took me awhile to realize the “low oil level” automatic shut-dn feature was the problem…so I cut the little wire that exited the engine crankcase from the oil level sensor….and it’s been running ever-since. (These little engines almost never consume oil between oil changes, so it’s never been a problem.)
I did open the electrical panel and wired into it an ordinary 30Amp RV outlet just like you’d find in a campground. I mounted the receptacle in a metal outlet box screwed to the end-frame of the generator frame. This way I can simply plug my shore power plug from the Airstream directly to the generator.
On the Predator, since I bought it expecting to use the 240 volts “out in the pasture” I added a common 240 volt receptacle fo service my welders.
ADVICE TO ALL:
Before purchasing ANY generator … and especially if you are considering one of the Predator 4000 Watt or newer 4375 Watt versions…
PAY ATTENTION to the Max Watts of EACH RECEPTACLE before purchase.
WHY..?? Because 15W is ALL the circuit breaker will allow from ANY outlet/receptacle…and 15 multiplied by 120 volts is only 1800 WATTS !!! …which is not sufficient to run things like Air Conditioners. In other words, Predator generator labels can be MISLEADING…as to how much power the receptacles can actually deliver….and if you plan to plug an adaptor into one of the little 129 volt outlets to then plug your shore-power into that adaptor…thinking you’re gonna run your AC off it…you will be sorely disappointed.
The LARGER Predators have outlets served by 20A circuit breakers and they can do the job…but NOT the 4000/4375 watt models.
My cheap little Coleman ProForce delivers it’s full wattage to either 120v outlet..and so when I tied into those with a common 30A RV plug… I get the full power of 2875 (surge) 2300 watt power to run the AC or the Microwave (but not both at the same time. When the wife wants to use the hair dryer or the MW… I switch the AC from “cool” to “fan” until she’s finished with those high-watt items.) This little Coleman has been our primary “boondocking” generator, but since it’s not a quiet “inverter” type…we don’t use it near other campers who might not like it. Inside the trailer we can’t hear it over the AC anyway, so it’s fine for boondocking.
The Predator generators (aside from the warning I’ve already mentioned about certain models reduced output of individual outlets) are just as good as most other brands. They are not Hondas, but they are equal to most others on the market which are made in china. Remember, the Chinese are fantastic “copy-cats”. The models they copy… are just as good as the copied-originals, in my view.
Another point for those who are insistent on using “Power Purifiers” or “Power Protectors” or fancy surge protectors (all unnecessary in my view) with a portable generator: Most portable generators have “Floating Grounds” for National Electrical Codes….this is intended to protect construction workers using power tools on worksites. If you use one of the “Power” managing devices often sold to RV-ers after scaring them their RV is at risk from campground electrical grids…. The little device will not allow a “Floating Ground” generator to be used with your RV. You’ll have to use an adaptor-plug which connects the third-hole in the receptacle (the so-called equipemnt ground) to the WHITE / Neutral “slot” of the 120 volt receptacle…. OR….you’ll have to internally make that connection to convert your generator to a “non-floating ground” system. It’s an easy thing to do…and it will then allow your unnecessary power-manager the RV store sold you to allow the electricity onto your RV. Here’s an inexpensive adaptor which will do this for you..simply plug it into one of your generator 120v outlets and use the other outlet for your RV.
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inve...6a5075ef5&th=1
PS: One more little secret I’ll share: In the gnerators and power washers and log splitters I own that sit for many months…but which I want to start on the FIRST pull, EVERY time…. I don’t use auto gas (E15) in them if I can avoid it. I use and store them with AvGas (aviation gasoline) which I have access to as a pilot and airplane owner. It is 100 octane and has a storage/shelf life measured in years….not months. Unfortunately, it also still contains Lead…so you cannot use it in ordinary automobiles or any equipment with catalytic converters. It is not restricted for public purchase however…all you need do is go to a small town airport with your gas can and tell the airport fuel seller it’s for your airplane or portable generator and they’ll be happy to sell it to you at around $6 to $7 per gallon.
And, I know a lot of you like the idea of using Propane…and I “get it”…as for certain advantages of fuel smell/handling, etc…. But I am a “gasoline” guy.
I prefer gas because: I can get it anywhere. I carry a 5 gal jug of it in the pickup bed so always have plenty on-hand. It has actually “saved” me when we were in the abandoned desert with the tow vehicle almost empty…then I REMEMBERED I had 5 gals of spare gasoline in the back. I hate the propane-purchase excersize I have to go thru with the RV tanks and I don’t want to run out of propane on the RV…especially waay out in the boonies. And I don’t like the loss-of-power generators suffer while running on propane. That’s my preference. YMMV….. all portable gens can be converted to run on propane however, if you like .
Here’s a pic of the little bargain generator I bought from Pep Boys for $159 and has served us perfectly for 14 years as a boondocking generator… It’s about the same quality as an ordinary non-inverter Predator (but allows full 20A at the receptacles): I hope this long-winded post is helpful:
Linear Mode
