'74 Argosy 20' Motorhome restoration/rebuild

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I've previously used a product called Miracle Paint that is basically the same as POR-15 however it does have UV protection. I decided on the POR-15 this time because it also comes in Gray.

I've heard that POR-15 is not strong for UV.
The paint surface fades under the sun.

I haven't heard Miracle Paint, maybe it is not common over here.

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by GREEN ARGOSY

I've heard that POR-15 is not strong for UV.
The paint surface fades under the sun.

I haven't heard Miracle Paint, maybe it is not common over here.

Even in black POR-15 there are two types....the 'chassis' which is tougher but not UV stable and fades, and the 'top coat' which to me feels slightly 'runnier' (less viscose) and supposedly is UV stable.

Both seem to stick like 's*#t to a blanket', just remember the name stands for paint over rust and don't use anything other than a POR prep product.

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Even in black POR-15 there are two types....the 'chassis' which is tougher but not UV stable and fades, and the 'top coat' which to me feels slightly 'runnier' (less viscose) and supposedly is UV stable.

Both seem to stick like 's*#t to a blanket', just remember the name stands for paint over rust and don't use anything other than a POR prep product.

Ah! I understand what you said.
Sorry, I misunderstood..

I searched "Top coat" then found that.
Probably that is not common in Japan.
At least I've only used "POR-15 Rust Preventive" and "Fuel tank sealer".
"POR-15 Rust Preventive" is sensitive to UV so when I use it for outside, painted other paint along with "Tie-coat Primer" on it.

I want to try the "Top coat"

[bkahler]

Sunday during a lull in yard work I cleaned and prepped the front edge of the galvanized cap where it contacts the windshield gasket. I used a wire brush as best I could and then switched to the POR-15 metal prep and finished it by flushing with water.

I almost didn't cover the nice new dash with plastic before I started but I'm glad I did. Once I started spraying the water up there to neutralize the metal prep it started seeping through the gasket area down onto the plastic. Needless to say I'd have been plenty p!ssed if I had messed up the new dash!

The next step was to figure out how to apply the POR-15 under the rubber gasket. I've been stewing on that problem for several days but finally came up with the solution below.



The aluminum strips hold the gasket far enough away from the metal that I should be able to get a foam brush down in there without messing up the gasket.

Once the paints dry I'll lay a bed of black Vulkem down in the bottom of the V and then pull the aluminum strips out. With luck I'll be able to apply the paint Thursday and the Vulkem on Saturday.

Brad

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Even in black POR-15 there are two types....the 'chassis' which is tougher but not UV stable and fades, and the 'top coat' which to me feels slightly 'runnier' (less viscose) and supposedly is UV stable.

Both seem to stick like 's*#t to a blanket', just remember the name stands for paint over rust and don't use anything other than a POR prep product.

Yes, if painted on anything other than an oxidized or porous surface it will just peel off like plastic

I believe their metal prep creates a phosphor oxide or something instead of regular rust

[Magnet18]

Good idea with the wedges brad! I'll keep that in mind when sealing mine

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

Good idea with the wedges brad! I'll keep that in mind when sealing mine

Actually, for applying the sealant only I don't think you would need the wedges. What made the biggest difference in getting down into the seam was to remove the locking bead from the rubber gasket.

The main reason I'm using the aluminum wedging is so I can paint the galvanized cap without having the rubber gasket end up being coated in paint which would cause the rubber gasket to adhere to the cap.

I don't plan on using the aluminum wedging around the rest of the gasket.

Make sense?

Brad

[bkahler]

I finally got around to painting the front cap with POR-15 around the windshield gasket this morning. There was just to much going on this week to find any free time to attempt it before today.

I'll probably wait until Monday or Tuesday before applying the Vulkem sealant under the gasket. I want the paint to be good and dry first.




I'll say one thing. Without some sort of sealant between the the gasket and glass and the gasket and body there is no way water isn't going to get inside the coach.

Brad

[vintageracer]

GREAT STUFF for window leaks and other leaks around the trailer.

https://www.amazon.com/Captain-Tolle.../dp/B00JQ6XHWC

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by vintageracer

GREAT STUFF for window leaks and other leaks around the trailer.

https://www.amazon.com/Captain-Tolle.../dp/B00JQ6XHWC

Just keep in mind it only works where there is no 'gap', then you have to use a sealant.

[bkahler]

I've used Captain Tolley's around the rear and side windows before. However, as Martin said there's no way it would work on the front windshield gasket.

Having removed the locking bead from the gasket I've found it amazing just how much you can spread the gasket apart. The next fun step will be when it's time to re-install the locking bead!

Brad

[bkahler]

Jay,

Here's a picture where I'm using the 1/4" wide screw driver to press the fin seal down into the groove. Note that the ride side of the fin seal is already in the groove and I'm pressing the left side in with a screw driver. Start at the top and work your way slowly down the seal.



I hope this helps.

Brad

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Actually, for applying the sealant only I don't think you would need the wedges. What made the biggest difference in getting down into the seam was to remove the locking bead from the rubber gasket.

The main reason I'm using the aluminum wedging is so I can paint the galvanized cap without having the rubber gasket end up being coated in paint which would cause the rubber gasket to adhere to the cap.

I don't plan on using the aluminum wedging around the rest of the gasket.

Make sense?

Brad

I follow, other than not knowing what the locking bead looks like

Thanks

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

I follow, other than not knowing what the locking bead looks like

Thanks

This is what the locking bead looks like.

Here's a pretty good video on how to install the glass and how to use the locking bead insertion tool.

https://youtu.be/C58hZcGzEtY

I've ordered the tool which should be here tomorrow. Hopefully this weekend the windshield work will be done.

Brad

[Magnet18]

Thanks brad!

[bkahler]

This morning I finally tackled the job of sealing the windshield gasket. I always dread messy projects like this but once it was all said and done it really wasn't as bad as I was expecting. The worst part was using the locking bead tool. It's a functional tool but would greatly benefit from a handle that is about 3" longer with a better cushioned grip. But it was cheap and it did the job so I can't complain to much.

I was going to use black vulkem but after watching a video I found on youtube I decided instead to use 3M 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound. It's dispensed from a caulk gun and from the reviews it seemed to be the sealant of choice for the style of windshield gaskets that are on our coaches.



So the the first thing I did was apply the sealant under the gasket by forcing the nozzle down into the gap between the gasket and the glass. I found by using my finger to pull on the nozzle I was able to keep the nozzle down in the gap while squeezing the handle. This process was a little messy but not as bad as I was expecting.



It oozed out pretty good after I pushed the gasket by hand onto the glass.



Once I started installing the locking bead it really oozed out but the gasket was now tight against the windshield. The sealant is starting to look like a real mess! It was really difficult to just push the bead tool through the gasket and I found that moving with a side to side wiggling motion that helped a lot. It still took a lot of force and I'm pretty sure the palm of my hand is now bruised. That's where a larger handle would have made a huge difference.



To remove the excess sealant I used some short sections of bent aluminum sheet that I had laying around from a previous project. They actually worked well for the task. All I had to do after removing the bulk of the sealant was to follow behind with a razor knife scrapper. I waited for the sealant to slightly skim over and that seemed to make it easier to scrap off the glass. I still have some clean up to do but mineral spirits should take care of that.



All the work was done from a 2x10 plank between two step ladders along with one small 4' step ladder.



I'm going to wait a week and then I'm going to run a bead of black vulkem along the top seam. Due to the curvature of the shell where the windshield gasket makes contact there is a slight gap along the top. The 3M sealant should keep out any water but I'd rather not have a place where water can just sit and pool.

Overall it took about 3 hours to do the work and 1-1/2 tubes of the 3M sealant. I probably could have done it with one tube but I figured I'd rather scrape the excess off than try to stretch one tube to do it all.

It's getting really close to where I can park the Argosy outside....and then sit inside and watch for leaks

Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Brad, I think you made the right choice using the 3M glazing for setting the window and the black Vulkem for additional exterior sealing. I would think that the 3M was made with future removal in mind, whereas the vulkem can be a more semi-permanent solution. Time will tell

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Brad, I think you made the right choice using the 3M glazing for setting the window and the black Vulkem for additional exterior sealing. I would think that the 3M was made with future removal in mind, whereas the vulkem can be a more semi-permanent solution. Time will tell

Peter,

That's kinda how I was looking at it. Hopefully I will never need to replace the windshields, but you never know!

Brad

[bkahler]

Keeping with the theme of trying to get my Argosy water tight so I can park it outside I spent some time on the exterior today.

A while back I discussed installing the outside 120vac receptacle that I salvaged from the 345 in my Argosy in place if the old filler neck opening for the rear fuel tank. Last year I had removed the filler neck spout which left a nice 4"x6" opening in the side of the shell.



After starring at it for who knows how long I finally came to the conclusion that there was no way to mount it horizontally like it was on the 345. Worse, there was no way to mount it from the inside as original due to the rear rib being in the way. That left me with one option, mount it vertically from the outside. I then discussed the situation with Peter and he blessed off on the arrangement provided I rounded the corners



Peter was 100% correct, it looks a lot better with rounded corners compared to the square corners. I plan on painting the housing the same color as the body (whatever color that ends up being!) however I'm debating on whether or not to leave the door flap polished.

All that's left to finish the task is to add Tempro 635 sealant and rivet it in place.

Now that I've committed to the 345 outlet box I need to figure out what to do with the original outlet. At the moment I'm thinking of some sort of light. If anyone has any ideas I'm willing to listen



I've been trying to figure out what else needs to be done prior to parking outside and I'm down to temporarily covering the old water heater and furnace openings, and taping over the tank vents that protrude through the roof. The tanks are gone so those vents are wide open to the elements. I may have Coosa board installed but I really don't want to have it wet all the time!


Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

... I then discussed the situation with Peter and he blessed off on the arrangement provided I rounded the corners
..

Brad

LOL, Brad, you are a kind guy to never mention all the other crappy ideas I suggested. Took me while grasp the situation, I really thought the whole thing was sticking out a lot more. Looks great now and very original.