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wardster · 09-24-2007, 04:13 PM

When I plug my argosy into the extension cord and run it to my house power, 110, both blugs get very hot. I have an adaptor that takes the cord of argosy from 3 large prongs to 3 small prongs so it fits standard extension cord. Does this make sense?
Is this an easy fix?
Thanks for any and all replies.
I'm chugging away on her. All I need now is an axle, new cushions, paint job and she's back to 100%...

richinny · 09-24-2007, 04:22 PM

you might be drawing more power than that cord can handle.

Beginner · 09-24-2007, 04:25 PM

No absolutely not.
It works like this.
The cord connected to your Argosy has a 115 Volt AC 30 amp connector on it.
The standard house receptacle is for a 115 Volt AC 15 amp connector.
Thats all it will do.
If you draw any more current heating will result, possibly fire.
Not a good idea.
HOWEVER....
If you plug the trailer in and only run a light or two and allow the battery charger to charge the batteries/battery(battery switch turned on) there should be no problem.
The problem comes when you try to run the AC (12 to 15 amps or so) and or the microwave (20 amps or so).

The safe solution is to have a qualified person install a 115 Volt 30 amp RV recptacle, then you will have nothing to worry about.
Beginner

richinny · 09-24-2007, 04:30 PM

p.s. you'll need a cord that can handle the distance and load too.

john hd · 09-24-2007, 04:58 PM

you can do the math for yourself here Voltage Drop Calculator JavaScript

john

Old_Town · 09-24-2007, 05:28 PM

The wire in your cordset supplying the trailer is probably rated at 90 degrees C or 194 degrees F. The wire will withstand these temps without damage. If more than 15 amps are on the circuit for extended periods of time, it will heat up. With the a/c on my Safari draws about 13.5 amps. Microwaves seldom draw more than 15 amps. My fullsize 1000w at home draws 13 amps.

Warm plugs are nothing to get alarmed about. If they become to hot to handle, it's time to be concerned. The contact points are usually the source of most of the heat.

-Ty

jimmickle · 09-24-2007, 05:30 PM

What gage is the extension cord, and how long? Twelve gage would be good. Fourteen gage minimum.

Jim Mickle

TomW · 09-24-2007, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wardster

When I plug my argosy into the extension cord and run it to my house power, 110, both blugs get very hot. ...

Are you running the air conditioner?

Tom

wardster · 09-25-2007, 07:13 AM

Thanks gang.

Yes, I was running the a/c as it's hot down here. I have her in my driveway and left the windows cracked to keep it aried out. I went in yesterday and realized I had a mold problem. It was starting on almost every surface. So I had to spend a good amount of time cleaning it out, with A/C on.

HowieE · 09-25-2007, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old_Town

The wire in your cordset supplying the trailer is probably rated at 90 degrees C or 194 degrees F. The wire will withstand these temps without damage. If more than 15 amps are on the circuit for extended periods of time, it will heat up. With the a/c on my Safari draws about 13.5 amps. Microwaves seldom draw more than 15 amps. My fullsize 1000w at home draws 13 amps.

Warm plugs are nothing to get alarmed about. If they become to hot to handle, it's time to be concerned. The contact points are usually the source of most of the heat.

-Ty

Boy do I hope you live close to the fire house.

Yes he most likely will not melt the wire to the trailer but that same current is being drawn from the house and is most likely on a 20 amp braker. The house wiring is also getting hot and is not rated for 90 C.

Warn wiring is what starts Christmas fire.

CanoeStream · 09-25-2007, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wardster

Yes, I was running the a/c as it's hot down here.

Are you running it on a 15 amp outlet with a 15A-30A adapter? If that answer is 'yes' is it the outlet or extension cord getting hot or the trailer's heavy gauge cord?

BTW -- the compressor takes something around 20 amps at A/C startup. Repeated use at 15 amps causes the compressor to struggle and fail before long.

Wabbiteer · 09-25-2007, 10:30 AM

All conductors have some resistance to them and with our vintage trailers comes plugs with a goodly layer of oxidation on them. Even a new plug set will show heating but the thermal mass is enough to dissipate it. Older service plugs oxide layers keep a positive connection from happening and increases the resistance seen by carried current thus heating the metals which increases the oxidation levels and resistance. Letting the plugs get wet only accelerates the process, like maybe when camping or some other silliness.

One thing you can do is use 'automotive ignition wiring silicone dielectric gel' to keep oxygen and water away from the contact area, sold in tiny tubes or included with wiring sets. It's easy to polish the prongs and nearly impossible to clean the plug contacts so its best applied to a new plug. An extension cord with a heavy conductor size will also act as a heat sink, each heavy connected wire helping dissipate the contact area heat into the length of the cord while not producing much internal heat of its own instead of allowing the plug body to be the primary heat sink as its nicely insulated via slowly melting plastic...

Another issue is the relaxing of the cord-sockets contact grips spring tension through use, abuse, and overheating - unless the plug can be dissembled its non-serviceable so be gentle.

wardster · 09-25-2007, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanoeStream

Are you running it on a 15 amp outlet with a 15A-30A adapter? If that answer is 'yes' is it the outlet or extension cord getting hot or the trailer's heavy gauge cord?

BTW -- the compressor takes something around 20 amps at A/C startup. Repeated use at 15 amps causes the compressor to struggle and fail before long.

I'm assuming yes to the 15 amp outlet. I have an adaptor that fits on the heavy gauge cord attached to the argosy. This adaptor allows me to plug into a regular extension cord. Where the adaptor and ext. cord meet is where it's getting hot. There was a little bit that started to melt too.

CanoeStream · 09-25-2007, 10:59 AM

Every time the thermostat tells the compressor to cool again the A/C tries to draw 21-22 amps thru the 15 amp outlet. It does pull lower current once it's running. Are you popping a breaker ever? The heat should tell you something -- saving the compressor -- priceless. Well, $2000....

I looked at an Overlander near Chicago whose PO ran the A/C in his driveway off a standard 15A plug. He burned out one A/C unit, replaced it and burned out the 2nd unit. He told me it just needed refrigerant ...

. The A/C is the only reason your Argosy has a 30A plug. You should have an electrician put in a 30 amp circuit if you need to run the A/C in your driveway.

wardster · 09-25-2007, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanoeStream

Every time the thermostat tells the compressor to cool again the A/C tries to draw 21-22 amps thru the 15 amp outlet. It does pull lower current once it's running. Are you popping a breaker ever? The heat should tell you something -- saving the compressor -- priceless. Well, $2000....

I looked at an Overlander near Chicago whose PO ran the A/C in his driveway off a standard 15A plug. He burned out one A/C unit, replaced it and burned out the 2nd unit. He told me it just needed refrigerant ...

. The A/C is the only reason your Argosy has a 30A plug. You should have an electrician put in a 30 amp circuit if you need to run the A/C in your driveway.

Thanks! I did not know that and it's a brand new unit. It was only running for 15-20min. Hope I didn't damage it.

CanoeStream · 09-25-2007, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wardster

Hope I didn't damage it.

Probably didn't. It's a strain on the compressor. I don't know that it would last a summer's use as a guesthouse. I suspect experiences are variable.

HowieE · 09-25-2007, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wardster

Thanks gang.

I went in yesterday and realized I had a mold problem.

Lets get back to the original problem. You say the trailer was showing mold. It had to have a humidity source for this to happen. If any of the windows were open I would assume with the heat in Fl that normal daily humidity would have dried off each day. If the trailer was closed tight and there was a leak or other moisture source then the humidity could not get out and mold would start to form.

See if you can account for the humidity source. If you do not have roof vent covers consider getting them so you can leave the trailer with a air exchange.

CanoeStream · 09-25-2007, 01:13 PM

Good point Howie. Wardster, I also have a '74 Argosy. Check around the aluminum battery pan. If there isn't a good perimeter seal with the plastic interior enclosure I know that there would be a moisture problem there. Take enough of the front gaucho out to look around the perimeter of the water tank -- I had a window seal that let enough water in to collect under the tank and rot the floor there too. Fix the sewer vents if you haven't already.

Back on driveway electricity. If you install a 30A circuit, make sure it is 110V and not 220V -- an electrician might naturally assume it was the latter. I plug into a 15A outlet with an adapter all the time -- I just never use the A/C that way. You can't leave a Univolt equipped trailer plugged in all the time -- the crude Univolt will kill the battery.

Old_Town · 09-25-2007, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HowieE

Boy do I hope you live close to the fire house.

Yes he most likely will not melt the wire to the trailer but that same current is being drawn from the house and is most likely on a 20 amp braker. The house wiring is also getting hot and is not rated for 90 C.

Warn wiring is what starts Christmas fire.

The aforementioned house could be either 60 degree or 90 degree wiring depending on the method used. Type NM has a 90 degree rating for derating purposes only. It should be calculated at 60 degrees C. That said, Voltage drop on a said circuit is what causes start up problems and shortened compressor life. As long as voltage can be maintained in the 115V range no problems should be encountered.

With my 11,000 BTU a/c running my voltage drops to a respectable 118V. This is all on a 20 Amp branch circuit #12 Type NM wire at a 55' run.

As stated above it would be best for continious load, to have a 120V/30A insatlled. For ocassional use I use my 20 A circuit.

Good Luck,
Ty

wardster · 09-25-2007, 02:52 PM

The MOLD.....

It was sitting in a field, all closed up, for 2 years. No mold.
Moved it to the driveway to begin my renovations and decided to leave all windows cracked. Within 6 months... mold.
Tampa is very, very humid and I thought leaving the windows open would help vent, but that does not seem to be the case. I have one leak on the closet side of the bathroom. it's a 6 meter. I think it's due to the vent cap missing and the caulking around the cover is worn.