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GettinAway · 10-25-2020, 04:07 PM

Two questions. I blew all the water lines clear today without any issues. I am still struggling with the water heater bypass. Has anyone developed a special tool to reach down and turn that bypass valve. It’s beneath the plumbing under the mattress on the curbside twin bed. Reaching down through the small access hole I have a difficult time getting any leverage on that valve.
Second question. The tubing is in place (not sure if it’s hooked up correctly) to run RV antifreeze into the plumbing. I see the tubing inside the access panel below the street side wardrobe. However,, I can’t get my arm in far enough to blindly feel for the valve that I would need to turn that would pull antifreeze in through the pump. Has anyone cut an access panel in the back of the 4” deep storage compartment below the refrigerator? I’d like to be able to access that area.
Thanks
Jeff

RCC · 10-26-2020, 07:48 PM

We have queen bed so i am not sure about getting to your bypass valve. However, here is link to my post from last year that could help....

Water pump access
https://www.airforums.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=193228

SSquared · 10-26-2020, 08:32 PM

I also have a 25FBT, but mine is a Flying Cloud from 2013.

For the water heater bypass, I found I could do it with a medium size adjustable wrench. I wrote myself a winterizing procedure document that specified this tool. Then! When I went to do it next time I couldn't get that tool to work, but I succeeded with a normal slip-joint plier. It is awkward but it works.

For access to the water pump: In my trailer, the back panel of the storage area under the fridge is only held on by two screws (white painted so they are hard to see). Undo those, then raise the panel and tilt it back until it is horizontal. Then you can push it back an inch or two and rotate/shift it a bit sideways to remove it.

lsbrodsky · 10-27-2020, 04:48 AM

Some time ago I posted about making a tool that works for hard-to-reach valve handles. Take a piece of PVC pipe and cut slots big enough for the sides of the handle 180 degrees apart. The length of the PVC pipe and diameter depends on your specific needs.
Larry

GettinAway · 10-27-2020, 07:06 AM

RCC, SSquared, and Larry,
Thank you for the replies! If I lay my flashlight down on the bottom of the compartment with the bypass valve, and hold my left arm just right, I can see enough to get a long screwdriver on the valve. Once I got it started I was able to turn it by hand. I’m going to notch a piece of pvc tubing and see if I can’t get that to fit. With pipe and wiring going over the valve it’s difficult to even see it, let alone get a tool on it.
As far as the water pump access is concerned, I’ll remove that back panel on the storage panel below the fridge. If I need to I’ll pry off the wood strips that the panel is screwed into and remove it. I don’t really want to, as I’m not confident I will get it in as securely as the original design.
I guess everyone else that buys a 25FBT lives in CA, FL, AZ, or south TX. I guess I’ll find out if that valve you need to turn in order to pump in antifreeze is installed correctly. I’ve heard others that don’t work because they are hooked up backwards.
Definitely a poor design on the part of Airstream..
Thanks again all for the info!
Jeff

jeffmc306 · 10-27-2020, 05:23 PM

Jeff, funny you mention about finding out if your bypass valve is installed correctly. I’m at the Jackson Center Service Department today getting ours reversed along with frame separation repaired, galley sink re-glued, floor fixed (stretching to remove ripples) and a handful of smaller things.

Hope yours works correctly but if not, just remove the input fitting from the pump and connect a siphon tube directly to the pump. I had a Camco Winterizing kit for our previous FC23FB and used the siphon tube with the same pump fitting. That’s how I winterized our GT last year.

Good luck!
Jeff

GettinAway · 10-28-2020, 07:31 AM

Wow Jeff!
Those are the big things to fix on a GT! Let us know how it goes. I’m curious about flooring, frame separating, and the kitchen sink.
I’ve come to a conclusion that the pump and tubing are easier to get to on a 27 than on a 25. I’m going to pull the panel behind the compartment under the fridge to actually see what’s going on.
Good luck with your trip to JC. Please let us know how they resolve each issue. I’ve got the dimples below my front storage compartment.
Jeff

jeffmc306 · 10-28-2020, 09:28 AM

Jeff, I talked to Bryan, the tech working on our GT this morning. He said they got the frame separation fixed and while they had the beds removed, re-stretched the flooring in the bedroom area. He’s doing the front galley floor now. They also re-glued the sink yesterday so great progress for one day.

He expects they’ll wrap up everything else by the end of today so I’ll stay at the Terraport tonight and leave early Thursday.

Regarding the frame separation, you would think they would incorporate the repair (reinforcing the front) into normal production since it seems to be a persistent problem for owners and a lot of work for them now.

I’m impressed with the tech and communication regarding the repairs. He went down the list and acknowledged they’re all legitimate issues. They’re even going to replace the top galley drawer due to a leaky sink trap that caused the wood to bubble.

jeffmc306 · 10-28-2020, 04:46 PM

Airstream Service finished up the rest of my punch list items around 3 PM today. Here’s what the winterizing valve looks like now with the lever pointing towards the pump input.

By the way, I did ask Bryan the tech about the Frame Separation issue and if they’ve seen it on 25’ models. He said it’s rare but it does occur. Might be worth getting checked out. They did a fantastic job; you can’t the interior was totally removed.

GettinAway · 10-29-2020, 07:08 AM

Jeff, it sounds like a good trip to JC. Maybe a bit frustrating that you have to go, but now I would think these issues are over and gone.
I’m going to watch the front dimples below the storage compartment and see if they change. They may have been there since purchased back in January.
Floor covering and sink are good. I’ll know this weekend if the tubing and valve for pumping in antifreeze are in correctly.

ExploreUT · 11-01-2020, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffmc306

Jeff, funny you mention about finding out if your bypass valve is installed correctly. I’m at the Jackson Center Service Department today getting ours reversed along with frame separation repaired, galley sink re-glued, floor fixed (stretching to remove ripples) and a handful of smaller things.

Hope yours works correctly but if not, just remove the input fitting from the pump and connect a siphon tube directly to the pump. I had a Camco Winterizing kit for our previous FC23FB and used the siphon tube with the same pump fitting. That’s how I winterized our GT last year.

Good luck!
Jeff

Jeff, can you share a picture of the frame separation spot and describe it. Thanks

GettinAway · 11-01-2020, 08:39 PM

Well, I really tried to get behind the panel in the back of the cabinet below the fridge.
No way to get it out of the way. I guess I’m going to have to cut it up.
Pretty frustrating. I couldn’t see anything behind it. There is no way to get to the valve that changes where the pump pulls. It pulls from the freshwater tank, that’s it. I can get to the tubing for adding RV antifreeze, but I can’t reach the valve. Crazy..

SSquared · 11-01-2020, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GettinAway

Well, I really tried to get behind the panel in the back of the cabinet below the fridge.
No way to get it out of the way. I guess I’m going to have to cut it up.
Pretty frustrating. I couldn’t see anything behind it. There is no way to get to the valve that changes where the pump pulls. It pulls from the freshwater tank, that’s it. I can get to the tubing for adding RV antifreeze, but I can’t reach the valve. Crazy..

Well, bummer! Looks like AS changed the dimensions of the space/back panel without making sure the panel could still be removed. Do you think you could get the panel out if it was just an inch or two shorter? Then you could do a horizontal cut across the top and still use the same board. But of course, the panel is nothing special, you can put in a new one of different material.

I see you have a 25FB GLobetrotter. That has a compressor fridge, right? Maybe the change from absorption to compressor is what triggered the change in the compartment.

GettinAway · 11-02-2020, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSquared

Well, bummer! Looks like AS changed the dimensions of the space/back panel without making sure the panel could still be removed. Do you think you could get the panel out if it was just an inch or two shorter?

I see you have a 25FB GLobetrotter. That has a compressor fridge, right? Maybe the change from absorption to compressor is what triggered the change in the compartment.

Mine is a 2020. It has a 3 way fridge. Not sure if AS was putting it in any other models in 2020. The 2021 has the compressor fridge. It’s a solid flat surface just above this panel that won’t come out. There’s maybe 3/4” to move the panel upwards. I thought about taking some of the supporting pieces out, but worried about having the fridge come down. I may have to break it apart, or cut it in place.

jeffmc306 · 11-02-2020, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GettinAway

Well, I really tried to get behind the panel in the back of the cabinet below the fridge.
No way to get it out of the way. I guess I’m going to have to cut it up.
Pretty frustrating. I couldn’t see anything behind it. There is no way to get to the valve that changes where the pump pulls. It pulls from the freshwater tank, that’s it. I can get to the tubing for adding RV antifreeze, but I can’t reach the valve. Crazy..

Have you tried looking under the wardrobe closet floor? Our FC23FB had a plywood floor to access the water pump. Lift the carpet and see if there’s an access panel. Might be worth a look.

jeffmc306 · 11-02-2020, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ExploreUT

Jeff, can you share a picture of the frame separation spot and describe it. Thanks

Sure thing. Look for a dimple in the corners around the front compartment frame. Also, look for a gap between the lower belt line and the body.

The issue happens when the vertical spars come loose and allow the body to separate from the frame. The placement of the front compartment cuts through where the rest of the spars would be. The fix is to install reinforcement metal tied to the frame to secure the body. The service ticket listed 8.0 hours labor for the job. They remove the bedroom furniture and the interior skin to do the job.

Hope that helps!
Jeff

RCC · 11-02-2020, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GettinAway

Well, I really tried to get behind the panel in the back of the cabinet below the fridge.
No way to get it out of the way. I guess I’m going to have to cut it up.
Pretty frustrating. I couldn’t see anything behind it. There is no way to get to the valve that changes where the pump pulls. It pulls from the freshwater tank, that’s it. I can get to the tubing for adding RV antifreeze, but I can’t reach the valve. Crazy..

Mine was the same way. Your picture shows the panel lifted up a bit and you can see the board on the left wall behind the panel that is supporting the panel from behind. I used a long thin regular screwdriver and a stiff putty knife alternately to pry that back board off of the wall. It was stapled in place and came off easier than i expected. The staples go straight in—it was not toe-nailed.. Once that back board is loose you can get the panel out ....and have access.

GettinAway · 11-02-2020, 11:28 AM

Jeff, that’s a pretty complex fix for that front separation. I guess it better be to be done right.
I looked at the floor in the wardrobe. No go. However, there is a panel on the lower rear wall, that if removed, may get me access. It looks like this panel goes through the back wall though. Not even sure it’s removable.

I called the AS customer service department. Got Mike on the line, he’s helped me in the past. Unfortunately he said I was the only one he’d ever heard of that couldn’t get the the valve to switch to the RV antifreeze tubing vs the fresh water tank.

Here’s a pic of the bottom of the wardrobe.

GettinAway · 11-02-2020, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCC

Mine was the same way. Your picture shows the panel lifted up a bit and you can see the board on the left wall behind the panel that is supporting the panel from behind. I used a long thin regular screwdriver and a stiff putty knife alternately to pry that back board off of the wall. It was stapled in place and came off easier than i expected. The staples go straight in—it was not toe-nailed.. Once that back board is loose you can get the panel out ....and have access.

I’ll take another look. So, you only had to remove the board on the rearward side? Then the panel came out? I still don’t think it will be possible to get it angled enough to come out. AS customer service thought I’d be “ok” with just blowing the lines out and not adding antifreeze. I’m a belt and suspenders guy when it comes to winterizing.

RCC · 11-02-2020, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GettinAway

I’ll take another look. So, you only had to remove the board on the rearward side? Then the panel came out? I still don’t think it will be possible to get it angled enough to come out. AS customer service thought I’d be “ok” with just blowing the lines out and not adding antifreeze. I’m a belt and suspenders guy when it comes to winterizing.

Yes. I just pried the board loose from the rearward side behind the panel. With it out of the way i was able to push the panel back and then lift it up enough to pivot it and get it out.