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08-08-2009, 06:15 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
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Thanks Richinny
I knew that was here somewhere and I just didn't dream that up.
Roger
__________________
Roger & MaryLou
___________________
F350 CREWCAB SW LONG BED
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
KA8LMQ
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
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08-08-2009, 06:32 AM
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#22
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4 Rivet Member
1998 28' Excella
Dolores
, Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 324
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Looking at the photos remind me of when I was not retired and working with a couple of iron works folks. One individual manufactured suspension systems for off road and large trucks and the other person used sheet steel for art work. Seems as though when the majority of the steel was manufatured in the U.S thequality of steel could be depended upon. When it was shipped overseas the quality of steel was pretty iffy. Sometimes you would get fairly decent steel and sometimes you would get soft steel. This could be the problem here and GM picked up some receivers tht were made from a softer steel.
Just a thought.
Bob
4CU/CAC
AIR # 28748
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08-08-2009, 09:05 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1976 27' Overlander
Richmond
, Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flmgrip
Thanks guys some great input!
.
Vajeep has a great point... Yes it is a 'bend' pin I will start looking for a straight pin... Any online resources for that?
The other side of the hole is not damaged I will post more pics tomorrow
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Every now and then I get one right I read all the horror stories about the "bad OEM" hitches and it turned out that my problem was only the bent hitch pin. Like your receiver, I only had damage on one side, and when I switched to the straight pin no more worries.
Our Overlander is about #6080 fully loaded.
You should be able to find a straight hitch pin with out too much trouble. I went to a Tractor Supply store in Virginia we have lots to choose from. I would like to ge the pin in person to make sure that the new hitch pin was an "exact fit".
Good luck!!
__________________
"Abe" & Melissa Lincoln
1976 Overlander "Spirit"
2020 GMC Denali Duramax
Hensley Hitch
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08-08-2009, 12:44 PM
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#24
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 334
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Every hitch receiver I've used with the J-type pin has elongated the hole as shown.
Since I hate to throw serviceable things away, I am still using this type pin, but I install a large washer on the side of the pin with the bend in the "J", which prevents the bend from wallowing-out the hole. To keep the washer on, I use a hose clamp. No more elongated holes.
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08-08-2009, 08:58 PM
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#25
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3 Rivet Member
2009 25' SS International
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 156
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more pics and the question why aren't all pins just straight ????
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08-08-2009, 09:40 PM
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#26
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4 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
San Diego
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 331
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I seem to have a similar problem with a Ford receiver. I do use a "bent" pin and I used to think that it was because maybe it was a bit too small in diameter however I took a good look at it today and I'm not sure that it doesn't have something to do with the Equalizer not being closer to the same size as the receiver. There seems to be too much slop between the two. Maybe I don't have enough to complain about because mine has more years and more miles on it. I don't know what to expect. I did notice an advertisement for Draw Tite for their J-Pin that has a big nut on one side that tightens it up against the receiver to cut down on play.
Any comments? Or ideas?
BTW: It says the max trailer weight is 8850 lbs
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08-08-2009, 09:49 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
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I had problems with my GM receiver having too much play. My solution was to replace the square reciever in the hitch with one I bought at a trailer store that was made from thicker material. Took the whole thing off and to a welder, had him use a plasma cutter to take out the original, and then I welded the heavier duty receiver in place. At that time I put more weld on it making sure I got good penetration. Haven't had any problems since, and the whole deal was less than $40, but a little work.
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08-09-2009, 06:51 AM
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#28
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Replace the reciever...
IMHO
For the $'s involved it's worth the piece of mind. I still work PT at a GM store, we have replaced more than a few under warranty for weld cracks. (replaced with OEM, whats the point?) My rule of thumb, if it has the round cross bar replace, if square bar, inspect often for signs of weld cracks. Both styles have been suspect.
The factory receiver on our 06 3/4 Burb did not inspire confidence, it was changed before our first trip.
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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08-09-2009, 04:33 PM
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#29
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3 Rivet Member
2009 25' SS International
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 156
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Maybe I can talk the dealer into replacing it with a better aftermarket... I'm still under warranty... What's a recommended aftermarket ?
Thanks!
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08-09-2009, 06:15 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1999 23' Safari
Perrysburg
, Ann Arbor
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OB Bambi
I did notice an advertisement for Draw Tite for their J-Pin that has a big nut on one side that tightens it up against the receiver to cut down on play.
Any comments? Or ideas?
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I have one of those pins that I used on last truck (a Ford) and it works fine with but only with a DrawTite hitch that has an extra hole bored in its side for the end of the "J" to fit into. It worked fine, locked well, avoided rattles, etc. But it won't fit the larger-bore receiver of the GM hitches.
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08-10-2009, 06:34 AM
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#31
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flmgrip
Maybe I can talk the dealer into replacing it with a better aftermarket... I'm still under warranty... What's a recommended aftermarket ?
Thanks!
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The dealer is only "allowed" to replace with OEM, bring him a replacement and he may install it with no labor charge and keep your receiver for warranty if it shows abnormal ware. (you didn't hear it from me)
Have always had good luck with Reese.
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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08-10-2009, 03:51 PM
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#32
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3 Rivet Member
2009 25' SS International
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 156
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it seems like reese or curt are both good hitches to go with and cost about the same... now it seems like i might as well get a receiver with a 2" opening instead... the 2 1/2" is just a pain in the butt...
any votes on reese or curt ?
thanks!
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08-10-2009, 03:59 PM
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#33
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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I vote for Hidden Hitch!
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08-10-2009, 04:01 PM
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#34
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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This is a Reese class 5 with a welded insert, insert provides a closer fit, eliminating excess play and noise.
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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08-10-2009, 06:18 PM
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#35
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,378
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__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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08-10-2009, 06:32 PM
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#36
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More than one rivet loose
Currently Looking...
Los Alamos
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flmgrip
hello
i just bought a 2007 used chevy 2500 diesel with heavy duty tow package. the 2 1/2 hitch receiver was never used...
so i got my 25' international, picked it up, towed it 50 miles, pick it up an other day towed it 50 miles, all mostly on highway, some on surface street...
the dealer installed a equilizer hitch (who knows if he did it right ?)...
this is how the hitch looks like after about 100 miles... any comments why this could happen ?
thanks !
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Look at the wear pattern.
The hitch used in that receiver was loaded down. No WD. If WD had been used the wear would have been strait forward on down.
__________________
Michelle TAC MT-0
Sarah, Snowball
Looking for a 1962 Flying Cloud
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08-10-2009, 08:27 PM
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#37
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4 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
San Diego
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 331
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Curved pin
On post #14, vajeep makes the point of the curved end of the pin causing wear on the hole in the receiver. Notice the bump on the inboard side of the bend on my hitch...could be the problem.
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08-10-2009, 08:37 PM
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#38
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Rivet Master
1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
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I use a curved end pin for 2 yrs IT definitely don't look like that. It shows no wear. I have a 12 foot flat also that I haul tractors on,it has no brakes, so the pin would normally show some wear but it don't.Either the hole was over size or the pin under to get slop wear like that.
__________________
Roger & MaryLou
___________________
F350 CREWCAB SW LONG BED
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
KA8LMQ
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
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08-10-2009, 09:12 PM
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#39
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Rivet Master
2005 25' Safari
Salem
, Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,378
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Hi, I also use a curved end hitch lock, but I always center it [approximately] and it stays in place. I don't shove it all the way in, against the bend, or push the lock mechanism all the way over either. So I don't have the same marks on my lock or receiver. My first, short lived hitch lock, was a Master 1/2" shaft with a 5/8" sleeve; It bent on my trip from the selling dealer in Eugene, Oregon to my home in Lakewood, California. [JUNK]
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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08-11-2009, 08:18 AM
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#40
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More than one rivet loose
Currently Looking...
Los Alamos
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OB Bambi
On post #14, vajeep makes the point of the curved end of the pin causing wear on the hole in the receiver. Notice the bump on the inboard side of the bend on my hitch...could be the problem.
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I never use those pins. I threw them out. I use a heavy duty locking pin. Goes strait through, flush to the receiver on both ends.
__________________
Michelle TAC MT-0
Sarah, Snowball
Looking for a 1962 Flying Cloud
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