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10-17-2008, 09:56 AM
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#1
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Rivet Master
2008 30' Classic S/O
Dearborn
, Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,403
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Something interesting with my hitch receiver.
I swapped out my OEM chevy receiver, for a Class V Tow Beast.
Has a 2-1/2” box, so I use the reese reducer sleeve on my Hensley stinger.
I used to remove the sleeve, along with the pin, when removing my stinger.
After about 5000 miles, the sleeve no longer slides out.
I’m assuming the sleeve deformed enough to keep it firmly jammed in place.
Actually, I attempted to eject it from behind, by pounding on it with a hammer and length of #5 rebar…. No luck.
So now I just leave it.
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10-17-2008, 12:31 PM
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#2
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Moderator
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
2005 25' Safari
Santa Rosa Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 13,219
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That's very interesting. I would have thought that the reduction sleeve would be made of hardened steel to prevent the distortion that you have experienced. If your were using both 2" and a 2.5" hitch bars for different towing jobs, that would be a major problem. Have you contacted Reese about this?
Brian
__________________
SuEllyn & Brian McCabe
WBCCI #3628 -- AIR #14872 -- TAC #FL-7
2015 FC 25' FB (Lucy) with ProPride
2020 Silverado 2500 (Vivian)
2023 Rivian R1T (Opal)
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10-17-2008, 04:10 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
2006 28' Safari SE
Winter Park
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 150
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I have the 2 1/2" receiver on my truck and the reducer sleeve but my sleeve fits in the receiver very loosely. I would be surprised if deformation is the cause b/c a Class V hitch shouldn't be doing that. I'd be concerned if it actually is that. Instead, I'm going to guess that since you have a Titan receiver and a Reese sleeve that the two weren't necessarily made to the same specs and don't fit together properly.
Was the sleeve snug from day 1?
In any event, I'd suggest gently heating the receiver tube which might make it expand enough for the sleeve to slide out. Then put a little grease on the sleeve next time (assuming you get it out.)
__________________
'06 28' Safari SE / '08 Chev 2500HD Duramax
'64 Me / '60's-ish wife / '90's kids / '06 Black Lab / '02 Poodle / oh, and a horse, too.
GO GATORS!!
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10-17-2008, 04:28 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
2007 25' International CCD FB
Gahanna
, Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbradhstream
I have the 2 1/2" receiver on my truck and the reducer sleeve but my sleeve fits in the receiver very loosely. I would be surprised if deformation is the cause b/c a Class V hitch shouldn't be doing that. I'd be concerned if it actually is that. Instead, I'm going to guess that since you have a Titan receiver and a Reese sleeve that the two weren't necessarily made to the same specs and don't fit together properly.
Was the sleeve snug from day 1?
In any event, I'd suggest gently heating the receiver tube which might make it expand enough for the sleeve to slide out. Then put a little grease on the sleeve next time (assuming you get it out.)
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Oh yeah! A torch and a hammer will solve most any jams!
I like the idea. A torch and a hammer allowed me to get my keyed hitch pin undone this spring. When I remember I try to always travel with one.
yakman
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10-17-2008, 04:35 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,035
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Your situation would bug me, but
Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
...After about 5000 miles, the sleeve no longer slides out. ...
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Do you need to remove it?
Tom
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10-17-2008, 07:43 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2008 30' Classic S/O
Dearborn
, Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,403
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no... there really isn't any reason to remove the sleeve... (the hensley's the only equipment) I just thought it was strange that it bent in there...
it was loose, originally... that is, there was a little 'play'-- this also concerned me... I wanted to pick up some hardened steel shims to jam in there
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10-17-2008, 09:29 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,944
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If you heat the steel with a torch and any part get above 600F you will be losing some of the heat treat strength. I would not be surprized if the adapter turns out not to be heat treated. A call to the manufacturer's engineering department would expertly answer your question from the person who knows the most about how their equipment is made and how they suggest you use it. I would not just talk to the dealer as he is really not the person in the know.
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10-18-2008, 12:10 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1983 27' Excella
Walnut Grove/Laguna Woods
, California
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
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If you don't want to use too much heat, I would try ice in a zip lock inside the adapter. Might just cool it enough that you could then knock it out. Won't hurt to give it a try.
I have used ice to get new bearings cold so that they will drop into a motorcycle engine case that is at room temp.
You want a difference in temp, and sometimes it doesn't take very much.
Also, you might try tapping it in to get it loose. Like getting a stuck bolt out by tightening it a little first.
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10-18-2008, 10:38 AM
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#10
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,093
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Joe,
I think we got our V's at about the same time. I also had to get the sleeve. The shop had forgotten to order the sleeve when I purchased the reciever and offered to weld it for nothing. If you have no need to remove it and it's still in the correct position I would just have it welded. I agree with others, heating is not a good option.
That sucker is really a BEAST, ain't it!!
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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10-18-2008, 07:19 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2008 30' Classic S/O
Dearborn
, Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Joe,
I think we got our V's at about the same time. I also had to get the sleeve. The shop had forgotten to order the sleeve when I purchased the reciever and offered to weld it for nothing. If you have no need to remove it and it's still in the correct position I would just have it welded. I agree with others, heating is not a good option.
That sucker is really a BEAST, ain't it!!
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no doubt!
i like how the mounting brackets extend a good foot and a half further up the frame, more than the OEM... there's got to be more leverage happening there, eh?
plus, i wanted extra holding goodness, when i bolt on a twin screw supercharger to the burbs 496 cubic inches...
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