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Old 07-03-2018, 03:32 PM   #1
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2011 22' Sport
Portland , Oregon
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Replacement foot for Barker jack foot options

When we bought our AS used it was missing the foot/base for the jack. Unlike many jacks that use a horizontal pin or bolt, the Barker's foot bolts on from the bottom (probably why it is missing). Has anyone found a good option to replace the foot other than just buying a replacement Barker part number 21349?

I doubt it would very easy to drill a hole to use something like the FastAway FLIP foot, though that would be handy. I guess the easy option is to spend the $24 for the OEM part and call it a day.

Currently we just make sure to always put a 2x6 under the jack, but it would be nice to get better weight distribution without using a 2X. Just curious if anyone found a better option, I will put some loctite on the bolt when if I do buy the OEM base to hopefully not have history repeat itself.
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Old 07-04-2018, 08:07 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverHouseDreams View Post
When we bought our AS used it was missing the foot/base for the jack. Unlike many jacks that use a horizontal pin or bolt, the Barker's foot bolts on from the bottom (probably why it is missing). Has anyone found a good option to replace the foot other than just buying a replacement Barker part number 21349?

I doubt it would very easy to drill a hole to use something like the FastAway FLIP foot, though that would be handy. I guess the easy option is to spend the $24 for the OEM part and call it a day.

Currently we just make sure to always put a 2x6 under the jack, but it would be nice to get better weight distribution without using a 2X. Just curious if anyone found a better option, I will put some loctite on the bolt when if I do buy the OEM base to hopefully not have history repeat itself.
I think you have answered your own question unless you find some one sell a used base on ebay or some gagage sale.

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Old 07-04-2018, 08:46 AM   #3
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Is there something special about the Barker foot? I thought all the feet were interchangeable.
BTW, $24 for a new foot doesn't sound that outrageous.

My dealer told me to never put wood under the jack foot. I don't know why, so I made a block 12"x 12" using 3/4" ply and added a core of 2/4's on their side. That gives me a nice stable block 5" thick and I added a handle and a rope. It just gets tossed into the truck when I'm going.
I'm thinking of redoing it with a 2" x 6" so the jack will be retracted almost all the way when the AS is hitched. BTW, I have the foot all the way in so with the jack retracted, it's snug with the frame and I don't worry about scraping it.
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Old 07-04-2018, 08:51 AM   #4
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Replacement foot for Barker jack foot options

My foot is loose, and all I do is carry it in the truck, install when Iím unhitched. My WD bars are close together so leaving the foot off makes it easier to get enough clearance for the WD bars to swing while on the road. No big deal to put the foot in place and hit it with the jack tube. Otherwise the jack is retracted all the way.
When we are traveling, I often donít unhitch on an overnight stop, or bother with the jack or stabilizers unless itís real windy. Parked, at least one piece of wood under the foot to keep it dry and clean if Iím sitting in a grassy or muddy area.
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Old 07-04-2018, 09:38 AM   #5
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I've done the same, I think, as rmkrum. I no longer have the barker jack, as I just changed to a new ultra fab jack. My barker integrated brake died and was not holding a particular level. Anyway, when I had the Barker, I needed to change over to a removable foot. The pro pride WD bars when parked at an angle would prevent dropping the foot down. W/O the foot on, it was possible to drop the jack and put the foot on below the bars. On the Barker that I had, there was a bolt in the bottom of the foot that attached it to the post. All I had to do was remove the bolt and the foot separated. I then just carried it in the truck and used it when necessary. Fact is, I'm still using the barker foot with the ultra fab. BTW, I have the small fiber gear for the Barker left over. You're welcome to it gratis, if you'd like. Just pay the postage. Let me know.
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Old 07-04-2018, 09:41 AM   #6
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Silver House Dreams....I never liked the base that came on my 2007 25' Safari and purchased a Bulldog Reese replacement base from Tractor Supply for $14.99 that works great.
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Old 07-04-2018, 10:05 AM   #7
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I have a cast aluminum stand I use on ours it's 6" high and has a nice round base . bought it from Deb Kyle @ 260-665-6014 partimerunner1@aol.com she is in Indiana I don't know if she has any left but they work great cost around $50. I had one on my other coach but let it go when I sold it .
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Old 07-04-2018, 10:37 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by 2dabeach View Post
Silver House Dreams....I never liked the base that came on my 2007 25' Safari and purchased a Bulldog Reese replacement base from Tractor Supply for $14.99 that works great.


I guess I hadnít considered something like this and just leaving it detached. Put it in place when using the jack and stow it away otherwise.

The Barker foot is different than others because it bolts *up* from under the foot into the bottom of the tube. Most, like pictured use a pin or bolt that goes horizontally through the tube. The Barker isnít made to be removed easily, and in general is an annoying (cheap) design.

The reason they suggest to ďnot place the jack on woodĒ is that some people will stack 2x4s 10 tall to avoid having to extend the jack as far..and then the trailer shifts, the blocks topple, the trailer falls into the jack, it bends the tube and destroys the jack...and the as the weight of the trailer lands on the front stabilizer jacks it destroys the body, outriggers, and in general becomes a $20K+ repair to save 15 seconds on a power jack and a hundred cranks on a manual one. Stacked wood under the jack is bad. One or two 2x8 or 2x10 wonít cause many issues, but there is still the risk of one sliding off the other on a slope.

In general, on softer soil you want to distribute the weight more to avoid settling and putting extra weight on your front stabilizers. A 2X helps increase the surface area and thus decreasing PSI on the surface by a significant amount. Itís also less likely to mar your concrete than the steel foot.

I *have* to use one currently to keep the tube from sinking into the asphalt or into the dirt.
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Old 07-04-2018, 11:12 AM   #9
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I use just a single piece of 2x6 about 12 inches long to keep the foot from sinking into soft ground. No desire to stack higher than that because the wood can slide, as you noted.
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Old 07-04-2018, 07:26 PM   #10
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I went with FastWay and never looked back. You can also keep the Fastway folded and jack up on a board if local ground undulations are a problem. The FastWay is easy to install with a hand drill and they supply you with a jig to make every thing line up.
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Old 07-04-2018, 08:18 PM   #11
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I have the old style aluminum jack foot.
There is a photo and info on where to get it here >
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f438...ml#post1353848
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Old 07-04-2018, 09:36 PM   #12
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f542...ml#post1803267
post 1004

as indicated I lot mine on the maiden voyage, but it was not compressed on, but it was a bolt at the bottom of the shoe. Thanks for the heads up, quite frankly never occurred to me.

So I opted for the one pictured above. However I believe to the high collar of the non-oem shoe that it would bottom out. Barkers have a timing sequence to be followed at installation that as I understood, basically allowed for an auto shutoff based on the elevation of the post gears...hence the timing sequence. After they installed to new shoe/collar, I bottomed out on our Orcas Island trip.


I called Barker as the dealer was sawing non warranty....still. Barker was great and sent out a new base unit including the new shoe (which the dealer said was not warranty) and some extra fuses to-boot.

IMHO, the dealer and barker instructions "go until it stops, it will stop automatically (if sequenced correctly apparently). It is still looking for the "timed sequence" result when it bottoms out against the collar, jams and bows the slow blow fuse. I eventually marked the shaft where to stop (short) of the collar as a margin.

Upon receipt of the new OEM "bolt up from the bottom shoe", the new install and re-sequencing by the dealer, all is and has been fine....OK I forgot to raise the rear stabilizers in Bransom recently and blew a fuse...rookie mistake. Stab's up...bumpers on-deck, full speed ahead, red, right return....but other than that all is groovy

So IMO if you have a barker jack go OEM with the shoe...or get the instructions for re-sequencing...

Bob

[edit] finally found it ..post # 50 re-sequencing instruction at bottom of post
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...-151073-4.html
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