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Old 09-02-2018, 01:41 PM   #1
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Back up camera power.

I have a Garmin BC-30.
Two observations.
First, I wanted to power it from a lighter style connector, and Airstream no longer installs them. I do have about 10 USB phone charging ports though. To test locations for the transmitter I purchased a USB to cigar lighter adaptor. The camera transmitter only uses 150 ma, so I wasn't overloading the outlet. It works great! After the grand experiment is concluded, I'll change one of the USB receptacles to cigar lighter style.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Secondly, I mounted the camera inside the rear window, by drilling a 5/16" hole in the bottom of the cabinet center under the divider and installing a 1/4 x 20 brass insert. Then screwed my camera and ram arm into that. I wanted to be able to align the camera and keep it close to the screen, thinking the screen would be out of focus and not affect the image. Boy, was I wrong. The camera is so wide angle that even touching the screen it's in focus and unusable. Sadly, that screen is part of the emergency escape, so it is not removable as a unit. I thought about cutting a tiny hole for the camera, and still might try that since I have nothing to lose. Put the camera right against the glass.
The device is my Garmin RV770 on the dash.
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:17 PM   #2
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Just remove the screen from that window. If it is an emergency exit the window is not a functional/ usable window anyway.
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
Just remove the screen from that window. If it is an emergency exit the window is not a functional/ usable window anyway.
I think you're right. As I recall, it doesn't have the arms to open the window and hold it out a little.
Besides, my last RV I had 10 years and never opened windows for air.
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:29 PM   #4
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I could remove mine and not miss it so maybe that would work for you
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:05 PM   #5
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MD...

I used THIS in the 12v 'cigar' power port in our Classic. The red light is a nice reminder to turn it off.
Mounted our camera with velcro above the window with the power line routed under the W/strip and thru the window frame latch opening.

Bob
🇺🇸
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I think you're right. As I recall, it doesn't have the arms to open the window and hold it out a little.
Besides, my last RV I had 10 years and never opened windows for air.
FWIW, we use that window all the time for ventilation. We use a ~6" piece of foam tubing (pipe insulation) to prop the window open, and definitely appreciate the screen being there. Not real convenient since the prop has to used on the outside of the screen, but it provides great cross ventilation with the front dinette window open. Just our approach.

Edit: I should add we have a rear bedroom 19' with the emergency exit window over the bed.

Happy trails,
Mike
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
-- snip -- If it is an emergency exit the window is not a functional/ usable window anyway.
At least on the 23FB, that is not true. The emergency exit is a usable window.

Suggestion - you may be able to feed the power cord through the latch slot and locate the camera between the screen and the window. A suction cup will locate the camera. The active camera video accessories have these mounts.

Problem - when viewing through the window, moisture condenses on the surface and destroys the image quality. At night, the window diffuses the headlights and makes the image quite poor. That was our experience. Your experience may be different. We found the camera quite helpful, but limited in when and how it helped us.

Better suggestion - you should move to an external camera that is powered by the rear clearance light wiring. It will provide you better service and image quality. There are other power sources, so research before you change your path. Also, you can use your existing approach until you work out a better plan.

In any case, a camera is of real help. Your efforts will help make your RV experience better.

Hope to see your smile down the road. Pat
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:50 AM   #8
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FWIW put it on the outside and wire it into the clearance lights. Use aluminum mounting screws to prevent corrosion and 3M double sided tape (for mounting outside trim on a car door) to isolate the mount bracket from the skin.

There are a few threads on this on the forum.

Takes about an hour.

Feel free to PM me and I can walk you through it.
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Old 09-03-2018, 09:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
Suggestion - you may be able to feed the power cord through the latch slot and locate the camera between the screen and the window.
The camera is already mounted, I'm happy with that.

Quote:
Problem - when viewing through the window, moisture condenses on the surface and destroys the image quality. At night, the window diffuses the headlights and makes the image quite poor. That was our experience. Your experience may be different. We found the camera quite helpful, but limited in when and how it helped us.
I didn't consider that. Good point, though. Keeping the glass clean is a must, and reducing reflections from inside will help too.
I envision the camera to be an aid in backing since I'm solo. The view in my mirrors is quite good with the mirror extensions, so seeing behind me on the road is a secondary consideration, although a plus changing lanes.

Quote:
Better suggestion - you should move to an external camera that is powered by the rear clearance light wiring. It will provide you better service and image quality. There are other power sources, so research before you change your path. Also, you can use your existing approach until you work out a better plan.
There's a lot of reasons I wanted the camera inside. I didn't want another monitor, or tie up the phone, and I already had the Garmin RV770. I really didn't want another hole in the Airstream, I thought long and hard about a mount, and settled on what I did. Everything is reversible. If I take it out, a 1/4x20 screw will cap the brass insert in the cabinet bottom.

Right now the screen is the issue.
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Old 09-03-2018, 12:01 PM   #10
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https://www.tadibrothers.com/product...lt-in-wireless

I know you already have your camera - so did I - but wasn’t happy of my view from inside so I went a little different direction. I went with a wireless HD License plate camera from Tadi Brothers that has a range up to 100’ — we have a 2015 27FB FC pulled by 2015 Tundra - I am very happy with the results. Wired into the license plate light & all wires are behind the license plate. If you go this route & want to power the monitor with cig lighter - need to order this separately.

Sku# 93452

I would post a photo - but I don’t know how??

Glenn
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Old 09-03-2018, 12:11 PM   #11
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We went through similar considerations. We did not want to put a hole in the alum. We did not want to spend big bucks. We understand. We were wrong. The camera is great. The big monitor is great. We should have done it when we bought the trailer.

You may not be wrong for your use. Try it and see. The screen can be installed again later if you change directions. Something is better than nothing. Also, if you only use it for backing, that may only be a day light operation and not be a problem.

Note, it's not a keep the window clean issue when it rains, cause rain drops really mess with the image.

Most important - get out and look. The camera is an aid. It does not replace an observer.

Good Luck. Try it and get back to the thread. Pat
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Old 09-03-2018, 01:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I have a Garmin BC-30.
Two observations.
First, I wanted to power it from a lighter style connector, and Airstream no longer installs them. I do have about 10 USB phone charging ports though. To test locations for the transmitter I purchased a USB to cigar lighter adaptor. The camera transmitter only uses 150 ma, so I wasn't overloading the outlet. It works great! After the grand experiment is concluded, I'll change one of the USB receptacles to cigar lighter style.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Secondly, I mounted the camera inside the rear window, by drilling a 5/16" hole in the bottom of the cabinet center under the divider and installing a 1/4 x 20 brass insert. Then screwed my camera and ram arm into that. I wanted to be able to align the camera and keep it close to the screen, thinking the screen would be out of focus and not affect the image. Boy, was I wrong. The camera is so wide angle that even touching the screen it's in focus and unusable. Sadly, that screen is part of the emergency escape, so it is not removable as a unit. I thought about cutting a tiny hole for the camera, and still might try that since I have nothing to lose. Put the camera right against the glass.
The device is my Garmin RV770 on the dash.
On our 1966 Globetrotter I installed a GoVue WIFI camera and transmitter in the space between the glass and inner screen. Out of the weather, inexpensive and works great. Powered by the 12v to the license plate light, wired inside the body. I use my small Android tablet computer with a dash vent mount for WIFI reception, with the GoVue app. All works great for rear view on the road and backup when parking. I'll send photos if anyone is interested.
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Old 09-03-2018, 05:43 PM   #13
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wiring

I believe your TT is prewired for a camera'
I installed my voyager myself. Required drilling a hole and fishing the wires out.
It wasn't very hard to do.
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:24 PM   #14
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Wireless Setup

I use the NuCam wireless camera out the back window if my Airstream. It has a 6-8 hour battery life but also has a USB charging port that you could use to power it from inside the trailer. It attaches magnetically - but does not attach to aluminum. Thus I attached a small metal washer to the ceiling above the window with Scotch 3M Tape. The camera very strongly attaches to it. For a monitor, pretty much any mobile phone or tablet will work.

I removed the screen, but as I still wanted to open it for ventilation, I went to Home Depot and bought some screen material. I cut a piece matching the window size, put black duct tape on the four corners and punched holes matching the screws in the inside window frame (conveniently they have rubber end caps). (I also cut slits for the window handles).I place the holes over the screws, cap them, and I'm done. I just prop open the window when I want bug-free ventilation. When I'm ready to travel, I take the screen off and attach the camera (after pairing to my used iPad mini) and I'm off.
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:12 PM   #15
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You could make or buy a small pet screen door
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjwoods1 View Post
I removed the screen, but as I still wanted to open it for ventilation, I went to Home Depot and bought some screen material.
Back in my boating days, we made our own screens for the hatches. I actually considered that for this application also.

I looked yesterday and my back window actually does have arms to hold it open.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ITSNO60 View Post
You could make or buy a small pet screen door
I love outside the box thinking. You may have a winner!
One of my ideas was to cut a circular opening in the screen, then plug the hole with a paper plate when I want the window open.

Here's the camera mounted:
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Old 09-04-2018, 04:30 PM   #17
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???

What is the rational for a rear view camera mounted so low?

One of the best features of our high-mount is how much easier it is backing into/thru tights spots. The grid lines give a reliable distance reference.
Also nice to see how long the line behind.😂

Bob
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Old 09-04-2018, 07:37 PM   #18
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Backup camera

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
MD...

I used THIS in the 12v 'cigar' power port in our Classic. The red light is a nice reminder to turn it off.
Mounted our camera with velcro above the window with the power line routed under the W/strip and thru the window frame latch opening.

Bob
🇺🇸
What is the W/strip? I have mine mounted between the screen and back window so it is out of the weather. Haven’t hooked it live yet but considering hooking to light in cupboard above dining table. Mounted booster at front of trailer, also wired to light above bed. I think I burnt out camera by accidentally hooking up to 120v rather than 12v. Do you have booster or is your WiFi strong enough to get signal all the way from tow vehicle??
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Old 09-04-2018, 10:17 PM   #19
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The wire comes down from the camera, runs in the rain gutter, down the weather strip edge and thru the opening for the window lift arm on the right side and into a 12v power port next to the rear credenza.

WiFi has not been a problem, I did ck range, got two blocks away un-hitched before the signal was lost, came back at about 30yds.👍

Bob
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Old 09-09-2018, 05:29 PM   #20
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Rear Camera

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlbriggs View Post
FWIW put it on the outside and wire it into the clearance lights. Use aluminum mounting screws to prevent corrosion and 3M double sided tape (for mounting outside trim on a car door) to isolate the mount bracket from the skin.

There are a few threads on this on the forum.

Takes about an hour.

Feel free to PM me and I can walk you through it.
Dave,
I am in the process of wiring in a wireless camera in my 2018 27’ FB, however, I am having some problems: First, the 22 or 24 gauge wiring is difficult to connect to anything. I can mount the camera at the top of the back window, etween the window and screen (have an 1-1/2” space there) and plan to tie it in to one of the lights inside the upper storage cabinet above table. How would you suggest I connect the wires? Red is positive.
I will use the app WIFIAV and my Apple Air will be my monitor in my TV. I have a booster but think I will see how picture is without it. Do you see any problems with this setup?
I want it inside to eliminate weather.
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