Refrigerator control cratered

[Pahaska]

We spent a week on the road and the refrigerator became more erratic as time went on. The temp would be in the mid-40s one time and right down at freezing a little while later, then back up. On arriving home, I found that the 12v hot wire, where it enters the plastic block, had most of the strands severed and it broke off when I moved it.

With the power wire fixed, the refrigerator still did not seem to cool while I was at the trailer. I left the refrigerator running overnight and returned to find it totally dead ... absolutely no panel lights or response to the panel buttons. 12v is good to the control board and both fuses on the control board are good.

I think fluctuating 12v probably did the control board in. I have a Dinosaur replacement board on the way, via UPS. Hopefully, that will solve the problem before the Vintage Rally.

[masseyfarm]

Hope UPS arrives before the ice cream melts.
What brand have you got?
Did you check the fuses as with no power to the panel try to determine where you have power?
These units require good airflow up over the back to do the job. Make sure the insulation or something else has not restricted the airflow. Don't run the fridge off level and my own experience with the CLIPPER and a 3way fridge is the 12v is the most inefficient.
Do a search and there is plenty of advice on this subject on this site.
Dave

Originally Posted by Pahaska

We spent a week on the road and the refrigerator became more erratic as time went on. The temp would be in the mid-40s one time and right down at freezing a little while later, then back up. On arriving home, I found that the 12v hot wire, where it enters the plastic block, had most of the strands severed and it broke off when I moved it.

With the power wire fixed, the refrigerator still did not seem to cool while I was at the trailer. I left the refrigerator running overnight and returned to find it totally dead ... absolutely no panel lights or response to the panel buttons. 12v is good to the control board and both fuses on the control board are good.

I think fluctuating 12v probably did the control board in. I have a Dinosaur replacement board on the way, via UPS. Hopefully, that will solve the problem before the Vintage Rally.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

Hope UPS arrives before the ice cream melts.
What brand have you got?
Did you check the fuses as with no power to the panel try to determine where you have power?
These units require good airflow up over the back to do the job. Make sure the insulation or something else has not restricted the airflow. Don't run the fridge off level and my own experience with the CLIPPER and a 3way fridge is the 12v is the most inefficient.
Do a search and there is plenty of advice on this subject on this site.
Dave

I have a Dometic, standard in Airstreams. Also, I clearly posted that both the 12v supply and the fuses were checked and are good.

It is pretty hard for the insulation to cause the panel lights to not work. Don't you agree? I spent my working life designing and debugging electronics and I consider myself a pretty good debugger. Not having a schematic, there is limited checking that can be done.

By the way, I have a great fan kit installed on the fins and never have any problem in keeping the box in the mid-30s. I have a wireless thermometer installed in the box and I always know exactly how cold it is in there.

Airstream does not install 3-way units. I have had a 3-way in a previous SOB. It would just hold temperature but is a big battery draw. I always switched to propane when I would stop for over a short time.

[masseyfarm]

On my Dometic there is a barrel fuse on the board. The fuse may be OK but if exposed to moisture and salt air will loose contact with the holder. Test both sides of holder for juice.
You said you were experiencing ongoing problems -- It needs to run cool over the back. You have a circulation fan there that was not mentioned in the OP.
The panel lights went out after you worked on it?????
We also use a wireless monitor, it is a must on these units as the recovery is slow when you open the door just to check on temp.
If you have juice to the switch on the panel, and to the board and not beyond, then I too would say it is the board.
Let us know how you make out.
Dave

Originally Posted by Pahaska

I have a Dometic, standard in Airstreams. Also, I clearly posted that both the 12v supply and the fuses were checked and are good.

It is pretty hard for the insulation to cause the panel lights to not work. Don't you agree? I spent my working life designing and debugging electronics and I consider myself a pretty good debugger. Not having a schematic, there is limited checking that can be done.

By the way, I have a great fan kit installed on the fins and never have any problem in keeping the box in the mid-30s. I have a wireless thermometer installed in the box and I always know exactly how cold it is in there.

Airstream does not install 3-way units. I have had a 3-way in a previous SOB. It would just hold temperature but is a big battery draw. I always switched to propane when I would stop for over a short time.

[masseyfarm]

Did your new board solve the problem?
Dave

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

Did your new board solve the problem?
Dave

It cooled nicely for 4 days. When I went to the trailer to load our condiments, it was starting to warm up inside. I pulled it out and detected a slight ammonia odor. When I opened the boiler shroud, I found where it had started leaking. There was just a slight deposit and faint odor. It was still cooling some, but could not keep up with the 94-degree day and was up in the 50s inside.

We need the trailer soon, so I elected to replace the whole schmear. The trailer is at Camping World getting a new box.

Anyone need a product-tested Dino board? Worked well for 4 days.

[masseyfarm]

Wow! 6 years old and it's done?
I have the original in the Clipper and it is still going good. touch wood
I am sure you will have no problem moving the board.
Dave