Water won't try to ignite

[Ste and Bre]

Stopped and gas water heater won't try to ignite. Red lite doesn't come on at switch as though it locked out. 12 volt power to switch and when switched on power on other side. All other gas appliances work. 2 amp fuse at water heater ok. Raining so couldn't look farther to find 12 volt at heater. What to check? 2010 23fb flying cloud.

[A W Warn]

Maybe a corroded ground? Maybe the fuse in the fuse panel for that 12v circuit.

Look near the ignition module inside the water heater door. Loosen, clean, reconnect the ground wire.

[SteveSueMac]

Agreed. Look inside the external door and one by one, check every wire there. Pull it off and put it back on its blade. I had that problem once and this fixed it.

[Moflash]

Turn your run store switch to off wait two mins and switch back to on.If it still does not light chances are the water heater circuit board has failed.


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[Phoenix]

Rain and high humidity can cause temporary failure of printed circuit board. Wait until rain stops, then use hair dryer to thoroughly dry out all electronic parts and PCBs. Problem may also go away on its own, if you wait a day or two after rain and humidity is gone (or reduced).

If this does not work, see link for troubleshooting info:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...ml#post1867913

[mfalcon]

I had a thermal fuse open up on my Atwood water heater.
Bypassing the fuse confirmed it.
Cleaned flue and the burner and replaced the fuse.
All good for several months now.
Fuse is located above the burner unit with spade connectors to the control board.

[trigal]

So had similar problem, no red light period. worked on electric. Long story short there is some kind of pigtail and one of the wires came off thus no worky propane .
Maybe this will help trouble shoot.

[JCWDCW]

Manual states that first thing to look for is a good ground on the Board.
Try tapping the board with a screwdriver handle. If it is an intermittent connection sometimes that helps. I used to keep an incandescent bulb on a pigtail with a 110V plug that I used to dry out the compartment in winter months when getting ready to go south. That always took care of any moisture problems
JCW

[Wingeezer]

Does it work on electric (110)? Presume you have both.

If it does not work on either, possibly you may have a problem similar to one I had last winter with our water heater.

accessible from the outside are two button looking devices likely under a plastic cover, each with two wires connected.

One is the normal (non adjustable) thermostat and the other is an over temperature safety cut out switch. (I think they call it the ECO.)

I checked both with a multimeter and found the safety switch was open circuit. When I bypassed the switch everything worked.

Picked up a replacement set (They would only sell both switches together as a set) andit is literally a five minute job to change them. I think it cost me maybe $70 at typical Camping World prices!

Other water heater problems I have had over the years have always been resolved by the suggestions folks have already given you - ie make sure all grounds and electrical plug connections are clean and tight. Pull and replace any circuit board connectors and maybe spray with contact cleaner.

Good luck! ........... Brian.

[Ste and Bre]

Called Colonial Airstream and they suggested that it was the thermal diode that is connected to the brown wire above the gas valve. There was 12 volts to that point but not after. Stopped at an RV dealer in Nashville and they had it. They come two to a pack so we have a spare now. Put it on at the dealer and fired up the water heater. Above poster is right you can bipass to check if that is what it is if you don't have a multimeter. It is a safety measure so will fire without it but supposedly a Back burn could cause an explosion without it.