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greatlakes · 05-06-2011, 09:07 PM

I'm looking into replacing the fresh water tank drain cock in my 25' Safari. The tab just broke off. Has anyone done that and is removing a tire necessary to get to it?

noreen&sal · 05-07-2011, 04:27 AM

I did it without removing the tires, but it would be much easier with them off. Sal.

Silver Otter · 05-07-2011, 01:45 PM

greatlakes: I broke the tab day before yesterday, too. Is there a replacement part number you know of? Better yet, is there a replacement which is more robust than the plastic original? Thanks.

pmclemore · 05-07-2011, 01:49 PM

I don't know of a replacement. I keep buying them and breaking them off every other year.

Removing one tire makes it easier for me. Just drive the rig up on some blocks and you can easily remove the other tire.

Pat

Silver Otter · 05-07-2011, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmclemore

I don't know of a replacement. I keep buying them and breaking them off every other year.

Removing one tire makes it easier for me. Just drive the rig up on some blocks and you can easily remove the other tire.

Pat

OK, Pat, I'll yield to your superior experience level <grin> - do I buy the replacement from Jackson Center, Camping World, where?? Thanks.

greatlakes · 05-07-2011, 05:13 PM

The Airstream part number for a direct replacement is 601243. Jackson Center will not sell parts unless you go to their store. We were there last Dec but the valve had not broken off, so I ordered from a FL dealer (J.D. Sanders, 386-462-3039). This is just for the valve. I understand that there's a small hose on the inside of the tank that slips over the valve fitting and is clamped in place.

The plant quoted $125 to replace it and the Fl dealer will do it for $50. The part runs less than $5. I don't know of a more durable part that will fit on the same screw pattern. I plan to stop at the FL dealer on my way north and have them replace it since I'm getting too old to mess around removing the tire myself. I believe that keeping the stem lubricated will reduce the chances of it shearing off at the tab. Let's hope.

krlajwvater · 05-07-2011, 05:28 PM

I've never broke my valve in 8 years, I had made a tool to use with my valve, to open and close, this works really well. Pictures are attached:

pmclemore · 05-07-2011, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krlajwvater

I've never broke my valve in 8 years, I had made a tool to use with my valve, to open and close, this works really well. Pictures are attached:

K (I don't know how else to address you; the name does not type easy for me...)

Great tool - I think it addresses the basis weakness: the nylon deteriorates over time and when we try to move the lever, it is easy to twist it off without meaning to. The tool ensures you can apply gentle pressure and not snatch the danged thing off.

As far is a source for the valve, Camping World certainly, perhaps Walmart; i've seen also them in campgrounds.

I'd sure like to find a brass valve. Every time I drain my system - I like fresh water when I start a long trip - I worry if I am signing up for another valve replacement.

Pat

krlajwvater · 05-07-2011, 05:45 PM

I have a 2003, 30 ft. Classic, if you plan on replacing the valve, go the extra mile and move the valve between the tires. All it takes is less than a foot of tubing and one L fitting. I had told Airstream in 2003 about the problem with this value and they told me nobody ever uses this valve. I use this valve every time I fill my tank with water to empty it completely at every outing, 10-15 times a year. The engineers at Airstream have no clue.

RLS · 05-07-2011, 06:12 PM

I had to replace ours. Went to Home Depot and used this :
SharkBite 1/2 in. x 3/8 in. OD Pex Straight Stop - 23057 at The Home Depot
They show this one on line, but was not available at the time I needed one:
SharkBite 1/2 in. x 3/8 in. Brass Angle Stop - 23058 at The Home Depot
I used a thin piece of aluminum and made it work to hold the valve in place

Sorry about the photos being blurred

Silver Otter · 05-07-2011, 06:54 PM

Nice notes from everyone. I'll go looking for Brass.

Dwight · 05-09-2011, 07:41 AM

On our 1986 34', I ran a clear hose from the drain valve down (kept it open) the frame rail to an open spot behind the tires and added a shut off valve so I could drain the tank easier....

Silver Otter · 05-09-2011, 07:52 AM

Cool idea, if I can ever get the broken one open again <grin>.

drew05 · 05-09-2011, 10:26 AM

Can the valve be lubricated, if so how and with what?

Wingeezer · 05-09-2011, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dwight

On our 1986 34', I ran a clear hose from the drain valve down (kept it open) the frame rail to an open spot behind the tires and added a shut off valve so I could drain the tank easier....

Dwight,

I have done exactly the same thing. I also left the original vale in place (open). The main reason I did that is because I felt that my added valve was a bit more vulnerable to road damage in its more accessible position, and if it did ever get damaged in transit, then hopefully the original valve would still be useable!

I've had the added valve in use for two seasons now though and no problems, although I would imagine the added tubing and valve would slow the drainage rate a bit - no big deal though.

Brian

Brian

Silver Otter · 07-06-2011, 08:54 AM

We are back from the 8,000 mile trip, and working under the AS again. I still want to replace the drain petcock, but when I took the two screws out the fitting would not release easily. Wary I would BREAK something, I did not force. Can anyone assure me that prying off the plastic/nylon fitting is the Right.Thing.To.Do?

"The Airstream part number for a direct replacement is 601243. Jackson Center will not sell parts unless you go to their store. We were there last Dec but the valve had not broken off, so I ordered from a FL dealer (J.D. Sanders, 386-462-3039). This is just for the valve. I understand that there's a small hose on the inside of the tank that slips over the valve fitting and is clamped in place."

pmclemore · 07-06-2011, 01:07 PM

Greg, when you look under the trailer behind the fresh water drain valve, do you see a square plate (about 5-6" square)? On mine that is the access plate.

When I replace my valve, I disconnect the hose from the water tank side, then pull the valve and hose free though the hole out to curbside. If the clamp on the valve is too big, then you will have to figure a way to release it or - and this is what I had to do - use a dremel to cut the clamp. Then pull it through.

When you replace the valve ('most any camping store has them, by the way) use a clamping mechanism that will fit through the hole. Then attach the hose back to the tankside and you are done.

Good luck.

Pat

Silver Otter · 07-06-2011, 05:37 PM

Pat, yes I remember seeing a plate such as you describe on the underside of the fresh tank. (The Otter is back at the storage lot tonight, so I can't check it out.) The plate appears to be riveted on to the tank. To me that says not removable without damage. Remember, you have a real newbie here. If I'm to take that plate off, how?

noreen&sal · 07-07-2011, 04:33 AM

If the plate is riveted, you can drill them out with an 1/8 bit. But be very careful not to drill into the bottom of the tank. Ther is about 1 inch clearance. Sal.