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R&SZinser · 04-25-2004, 04:33 PM

Okay, so during our spring check up outing we discovered several water leaks. Including a pretty severe one in the cold water line under the kitchen faucet. Time to re-do the shade-tree plumbing in there. Here's what I dug out from under the sink.

R&SZinser · 04-25-2004, 04:38 PM

So some research on the web and a trip to Ace Hardware and I'm all set.
I'm using Flair-it fittings, new PEX pipe, and stainless steel braided hoses. In order to make the attachments to the Water Filter and Faucet hoses I had to also use some brass Female Pipe Thread to Compression fittings.
I didn't want to mess around with cutting the pex or potentially stripping off the Flair-it fittings so I bought a dedicated PEX cutter and the Flair-it wrench.

R&SZinser · 04-25-2004, 04:39 PM

In pretty quick order the new plumbing is in and the braided hoses make the work MUCH easier!

R&SZinser · 04-25-2004, 04:43 PM

I found that www.Pexconnection.com was a great tool for figuring out what fittings I'd need. I also ordered the wrench and cutter from them. Great outfit and I'll do business with them again.
I bought the Flair-it fittings and brass adapters from Ace Hardware in town.
I got the SS braided Hoses from www.plumbingsupply.com They had multiple lenghts to choose from and even had the 1/4 inch compression fittings for the water filter connection.
Overall a pretty good project... I'll post my Water Heater plumbing adventure in another thread!

Roy

maznblu · 04-26-2004, 11:44 AM

Roy, would you also show some pics of the copper to pex connections? I'm finding the copper has swollen some and no dimensions are standard. If you found that, too, tell us how you solved the compression fitting problem.
Thanks.
Eugenie

Janets Husband · 04-26-2004, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maznblu

I'm finding the copper has swollen some and no dimensions are standard. If you found that, too, tell us how you solved the compression fitting problem.
Eugenie

Oh! you've seen this too. I thought I might be all alone.
I mic'ed my 5/8" copper pipe and found that it was 0.632" not 0.625"., that is 0.007" larger than it should be. The compression fitting ferrels are about .628" that is the largest I've found.
I'm thinking I can just used a cloth abrasive and try too reduce the diameter so that the compression Ferrel will fit. I tried to find a 5/8" tube to 1/2" PEX barb but I don't think they make it.
If anyone has an answer to this one it will be appreciated.

TomW · 04-26-2004, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Janet's Husband

...I tried to find a 5/8" tube to 1/2" PEX barb but I don't think they make it.
If anyone has an answer to this one it will be appreciated.

I have an answer, albeit not a very good one. Since copper unions have a bit more tolerance, you could solder a three inch piece of brand new 5/8" tube to your existing tube. The new tube stub would accomodate the rest of your new plumbing.

Tom

Janets Husband · 04-26-2004, 03:16 PM

Well forgive me for talking before engaging my brain.
I have found that there is a sweat fitting made for 5/8" refrigeration tubing. I just purchased a 5/8" to 1/2" MIP sweat fitting. The ID measures .632" a good interference fit. They are hard to find and you will not get them at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. I found mine at a very old hardware store. They are available on the web from Larson Supply Co.
Can't wait to put them on and connect my PEX barb.

R&SZinser · 04-26-2004, 03:58 PM

Eugenie,
The fittings I used were the Flair-it 3/8 inch Pex to 3/8 in Male Pipe Thead. Then at Ace Hardware I found a brass 3/8 inch Female Pipe Thread to 3/8 inch compression fitting. The SS braided hoses fit those perfectly.
The big education for me in all this was finally understanding that "Pipe Thread" was different than "Compression threads" and that they are measured differently.
I'm now sold on using the PEX and Flair-it w/ brass adapters to flexible hoses for the RV repairs and eventual complete re-do.
Below is a close up of the Flair-it fitting and the Brass FPT to Compression adapter.

R&SZinser · 04-26-2004, 04:00 PM

[QUOTE=Janet's Husband] I tried to find a 5/8" tube to 1/2" PEX barb but I don't think they make it.
QUOTE]

I'm sure you could use the 1/2 PEX to 1/2 Male or Female Pipe Thread fitting and then use a brass adapter from 1/2 Pipe to 5/8. A few minutes at Ace Hardware looking for the fitting should do it.

Roy

TomW · 04-26-2004, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Janet's Husband

Well forgive me for talking before engaging my brain...

Unfortunately, it rarely seems to slow ME down

AYRSTRM2 · 06-02-2004, 10:05 PM

To the plumbing masters:

Did what I see in the pictures where you stuck the copper tube into the PEX tubing and then used a regular pipe clamp to secure it? Does this work, or was it an intermediate step?

I'm asking because I have a bit of a dilema. We just got our first A/S, a 66 Safari, on Saturday. I discovered tonite that the water pump (the original as far as I can tell) is completely disconnected from the water system. There are rubber hoses connected to the ends of the plumbing system that runs into the compartment, but they don't connect to the pump, and I don't think they will exactly work well, do to deterioration, lost parts etc.... So I need to rehook them up, and want to know the best way to do it. I will probably post detailed pictures in a new thread in a day or two on this topic.

John

j54mark · 06-03-2004, 07:41 AM

John, you want a braided plastic waterline hose for about 18" coming out of your pump. This will dampen vibrations that otherwise will travel throughout your system, making lots of noise.

I can't actually think what the stuff is (braided polypropylene maybe?), but they sell it at plumbing supply houses and home centers.

Mark

59toaster · 06-03-2004, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2

To the plumbing masters:

Did what I see in the pictures where you stuck the copper tube into the PEX tubing and then used a regular pipe clamp to secure it? Does this work, or was it an intermediate step?

I'm asking because I have a bit of a dilema. We just got our first A/S, a 66 Safari, on Saturday. I discovered tonite that the water pump (the original as far as I can tell) is completely disconnected from the water system. There are rubber hoses connected to the ends of the plumbing system that runs into the compartment, but they don't connect to the pump, and I don't think they will exactly work well, do to deterioration, lost parts etc.... So I need to rehook them up, and want to know the best way to do it. I will probably post detailed pictures in a new thread in a day or two on this topic.

John

Your pump is proably bad and they bypassed it and were just using it on City water. Test it!

mandolindave · 06-03-2004, 08:37 AM

My water pump was bypassed too, when I bought it. My pump worked.
I thought that they bypassed it to make it easier to blow out the pipes
for winterizing.

AYRSTRM2 · 06-03-2004, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 59toaster

Your pump is proably bad and they bypassed it and were just using it on City water. Test it!

If it is bad, is there a rebuild kit? I imagine that it's probably the diaphragm, if it has such a thing, or bearings. The pump does spin the wheel and belt, and tonite I'm going to hook up some hoses and put them in a bucket of water to test the pump. does the pump from '66 need to be primed first?

John

overlander64 · 06-03-2004, 05:58 PM

Greetings John!

Quote:

Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2

If it is bad, is there a rebuild kit? I imagine that it's probably the diaphragm, if it has such a thing, or bearings. The pump does spin the wheel and belt, and tonite I'm going to hook up some hoses and put them in a bucket of water to test the pump. does the pump from '66 need to be primed first?

John

From your description, it sounds as if you have a Peters and Russell (PAR) water pump. Rebuild kits for most models are available if you find a knowledgeable repair techician. The only time that I have been less than absolutely satisfied with my Airstream dealer was when I found that my original PAR (on the Minuet) had been replaced by a Shurflo pump rather than rebuilding the superior original equipment pump - - the new Shurflo was less costly than the labor and parts to rebuild the PAR, but had I been given the opportunity a rebuild would have been requested. Based on the cheap plastic construction, I will be shocked if the Shurflo lasts five years; and it produces several times the noise of the the PAR (I feel like I am back in my old 1980 Nomad every time that Shurflo cycles on which was a far from pleasant ownership experience.)

Good luck in your quest for a PAR rebuild kit!

Kevin

thenewkid64 · 06-03-2004, 06:30 PM

I have seen the rebuild kits on the shelves at West Marine. They run 40.00 to 60.00 as I remember. They are now made by Jabsco.

AYRSTRM2 · 06-03-2004, 09:46 PM

Well, it's doesn't pump. Attached hoses to the in and outlets, primed the inlet by pouring water down the inlet hose and turned it on. The little motor pumped away, but no water came out. Guess I need a new one or a rebuild. Is the opinion that the Shurflo is NOT the way to go? Is the original (on a '66 Safari) 12 volt?

John

AYRSTRM2 · 06-03-2004, 10:50 PM

My wife just said "Rebuild it?!? Buy a new one!" So, I have seen one no vote for the Shurflo. Are there any replacement pumps that anyone recommends?

John