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09-23-2003, 05:57 PM
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#41
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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Quote:
Now, answer me this Don (hello, are you still there) because you are obviously a man of great knowledge. Here's the directions on top of the box - what would you do?:
<snip>
I'm sure not putting this on the Airstream (or in my body) until I get a Material Safety Data Sheet! You guessed it - I'm an Engineer.
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Well, Jeff, I'm not sure our answers about the beef stuff would be all that different; I'm an engineer, too!
Mechanical, if that matters....
I'm thinking your research on Napier is a Very Good Thing! Thank You! I'm planning to score some of the private label stuff, but it's like $44 a gallon around here. Is the Genuine Napier less expensive?
(I'll call tomorrow; I was up at a power plant all day today)
-Don
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09-23-2003, 06:21 PM
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#42
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 80
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Don' Still Alive
Quote:
Originally posted by drboyd
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Quote:
I'm an engineer, too! Mechanical, if that matters....
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Yep, same sub-species.
Quote:
I was up at a power plant all day today
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Hydro, fossil, nuke or new tech?
Look at me "multiple quote", thanks, you're the Man.
Regards,
Jeff
P.S. Got a lot done today, Warden gave me a reprieve.
P.P.S. How do you <snip> ?
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09-23-2003, 09:57 PM
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#43
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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Quote:
Hydro, fossil, nuke or new tech?
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Coal; we were doing some testing of the flue gas flow profile going into the SO2 scrubbers.... This plant is at 5800 feet elevation and I ran up and down stairs all day. Tough work for an old fat guy!
Quote:
P.P.S. How do you <snip> ?
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Ah, Grasshopper! This is most difficult! You just leave out a buncha stuff and type "<snip>"
Don
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09-24-2003, 11:35 AM
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#44
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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Talked to Terry at Napier just now. He told me that the 210 must be applied with an airless gun. No other choices will work.
Hmmm.
I was really hoping that I could put this stuff on with a brush or roller so I wouldn't have to mask or remove everything on the outside of the trailer.
Hmmmmmmmm.
Don
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09-24-2003, 12:49 PM
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#45
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2 Rivet Member
1997 34' Limited
1963 22' Safari
Troy
, Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 97
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I applied Napier 210 with a brush and had GREAT results with removing with a power washer! This is after power wash, still needs some touch up before polish!
Paul
P.S. They said the same thing on their removall for boats which I applied with a brush and worked great!
P.P.S I had my awning extended when I applied removall!
I'd post picture but I can't get it to post?????
__________________
Paul
Troy, MI
1963 22'Safari
1997 34' Classic FK
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09-24-2003, 08:57 PM
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#46
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 80
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Napier Products
Quote:
Originally posted by drboyd
Talked to Terry at Napier just now. He told me that the 210 must be applied with an airless gun. No other choices will work.
O.K. Don, I owe you a few favors (or cold ones) for making me dangerously computer literate. I was going to start a new thread titled "Napier Products" with my newfound knowledge. But, thought it would be important to attach a link back to this thread for the new user (like TomD32 who just joined the Forum - poor guy). But, as I don't know how to do that, I'll leave that to you if you think it's important - you're the Computer Guru.
So, here's the "rest of the story":
You've obviously got the info from my previous post and contacted Terry in customer service at Napier's home in British Columbia. He was very helpful, but admittedly didn't have all the answers for us Engineer types. He referred me to (but, haven't contacted):
Todd Cottrell - Aircraft Specialist
Dave Hunter - US East Coast Sales Rep
More importantly, he provided me info on their Northeast US distributor (who I have contacted) - He is indeed the Stripper Guru and I highly recommend you communicate with him. I asked him to join our Forum and provide technical advice (similar to Andy at InlandRV) and a source for Napier and other products:
Kevin Collard
Boston Restoration
978-988-1177
restorationproducts.com (lots of great info)
kcollard@restorationproducts.com
He recommends RemovAll 210 for our application on Airstreams, a slightly modified (stronger, better) version of the older SV-35A for the aircraft industry (still used because spec can't be changed without an "act of Congress").
He recommends an airless sprayer with at least a #19 tip (a Titan Model 440 with a # 21 tip is the choice of pros) Absolutely no Wagner brand sprayers which have a plastic orfice incompatable with RemovAll (one of only a few types of plastic affected). He will also supply testimonial letters for your local rental center, who often refuse to rent for paint stripping purposes.
In addition to Napier products, he has other lines which better meet some of our unusual needs. He seems hesitant to recommend them (likely based on exclusive agreements with Napier), but appears professional enough to look out for the needs of the customer.
One example, is stripping of our metallic trim paints (non-Engineers can skip this part, if you like). RemovAll is water, alcohol and peroxide based. As best as I understand it, the alcohol acts as a penetrant carrying the peroxide thru the coating to the base metal. The peroxide reacts with the metal causing a gas which expands and lifts off the overlying coating. In the case of metallic paints, the peroxide starts to react with the metal in the paint before reaching the base metal, and is therefore ineffective in stripping the entire coating.
Now, you need to use an organic stripper (N-methyl2 - prolodone, I think he said - don't quote me, way over my head). Napier has RemovAll 400 liquid (it's a honey consistency like Goof-Off), but he suggests CitrusStrip (a paste consistency) and NOT the (sounds-alike) Orange one from Home Depot. It's from American Building Restoration (ABRP.com).
ANY QUESTIONS?
<Snip> - gotcha
I was really hoping that I could put this stuff on with a brush or roller so I wouldn't have to mask or remove everything on the outside of the trailer.
Me too! Be it seems our resourcefuul ''shade-tree" Airstream mechanic (see pmissar's post) has figured out how to do this without intervention from us "anal retentive" Engineers
<Snip> Ditto
"Rabba-Frivitz" (whish this had a spel-chequer) - Thought I had that "multiple quote" thing down pat, but the <Snip> thing is pretty straight forward for a computer illiterate.
NOW, I'm in a world of big "doggy-do" with my woodgrain decal stripping (like to have 2 or 3 projects going at one time, like Barbara). Please come over to the thread ''Woodgrain Decal Help" tomorrow and give me some advice, if you can.
Thanks,
Jeff
Don
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Quote:
[B]Talked to Terry at Napier just now. He told me that the 210 must be applied with an airless gun. No other choices will work.
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Quote:
I was really hoping that I could put this stuff on with a brush or roller so I wouldn't have to mask or remove everything on the outside of the trailer.
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09-24-2003, 09:53 PM
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#47
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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Well, much to everyone's dismay I'm sure, the engineer-geek types have seemingly taken over this thread.
I wouldn't worry too much about a rental center refusing to rent for paint stripping...
<scene fades>
"I'm painting -- uh-- a fence! Yeah, a fence! That's what it is! Yeah, a fence! Painting it... uhhh... red! Yeah, bright red! That's the ticket! Not stripping a thing! No sir-ee!"
I've gotta spend all day tomorrow at a different coal plant baby-sitting some civil engineer's project (Mechanical engineers build weapons - civil engineers build targets!), but I'll try to get with that guy Kevin on Friday.
By the way, if you have a Harbor Freight Tools store around, the variable speed drive buffers are on sale for $29.95! Woo-hoo!
The only thing I can think of right now for your woodgrain removal is about a 1500 Watt hair dryer. Last decal I had to remove was off the hood of a 1971 Plymouth GTX, and I ended up doing it with my fingernails. I think 3M makes some decal remover stuff, too....
Talk to you later...
Don
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09-25-2003, 04:14 AM
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#48
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 80
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Originally posted by drboyd
How'd you do that?
<Snip>
Quote:
The only thing I can think of right now for your woodgrain removal is about a 1500 Watt hair dryer ---- fingernails ---- 3M decal remover stuff
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Tried em all. Am now considering several other mechanical means, in order:
12 gauge shotgun (00 bird shot)
dynamite (40% nitro)
shoulder launched missle (Stinger or equivalent)
small thermonuclear device (100 kiloton)
But fear they may cause damage to the aluminum.
Gotta go, the "Warden" is coming to let me out of "my hole" and chain me to the Airstream.
Have a great day,
Jeff
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09-25-2003, 11:20 AM
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#49
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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How about just putting the new stuff on over the old stuff? If you've got chunks out of it, you might just fill in the chunks with automotive glazing putty....
<advice from years and years of being lazy!>
Don
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09-25-2003, 01:08 PM
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#50
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 80
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Quote:
Originally posted by drboyd
How about just putting the new stuff on over the old stuff?
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That was considered early on, but it was just too badly deteriorated to save (we get a lot of acid rain here in Central NY from those BAD coal fired plants in the Midwest). Now, it's obviously too late to consider as an option.
I posted details of my problem on the ''Woodgrain Decal Help" thread in this Forum. Take a look and give it some thought while you're getting "windshield time" on the way to supervise "Target Builders".
Thanks,
Jeff
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09-25-2003, 01:23 PM
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#51
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Little Radio
1966 28' Ambassador
Chicago
, Illinois
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 98
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Dumb Question...
Why doesn't Airstream just make a "mirror finish, polished Aluminum skin" a $2,000 option on their trailers???!!!
Sounds like a great revenue-enhancing idea for them.
Would save all of us the hassle and time (and disease).
Somebody 'splain it to me.
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09-25-2003, 01:58 PM
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#52
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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From this site they talk about 3M Woodgrain and Decal Remover and 3M Woodgrain Adhesive Remover .
I don't know if you've tried the adhesive remover as well as the woodgrain remover. There's also a body of opinion that recommends "GoofOff" from Lowes or Homey Depot to remove the glue residue.
Here's some more crap from 3M to think about - -- you've probably already tried it. The "wheels" used with a drill or something look interesting....
This guy likes "Kleen Strip Aircraft Decal and Adhesive Remover."
I'll keep thinking...
Don
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09-25-2003, 07:12 PM
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#53
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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Jeff, I'm moving this over to the "Woodgrain Decal Help" thread.
Don
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09-26-2003, 12:26 AM
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#54
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
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Napier locally
Hi guys. I too was looking for the Napier product line....buried in their PR stuff "see This Old House clips" is that Napier is carried by ICI paints under the "Hydro-Strip" line. Same stuff.
ICI has at least two dealers in the Seattle region. I'll be buying some soon to strip the Argosy. I'll post after I do it - I hope it's easy - at least my liver won't boil
Marc
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09-30-2003, 11:28 AM
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#55
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3
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Your strip search is over
Dear, Mr. Jeff Thew, I would like to thank you for the wonderfull introduction. My name is Kevin W. Collard and I am with Boston Restoration Supply Inc a distributor of your first choice for paint strippers. I will do my best to offer you good tech and product assistance. www.restorationproducts.com or 866-988-1177
__________________
Kevin W. Collard
Boston Restoration Supply Inc.
www.restorationproducts.com
866-988-1177
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09-30-2003, 11:39 AM
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#56
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3
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Your strip search is over
Hello all!! My name is Kevin W. Collard and first I would like to thank Jeff Thew for the very kind introduction. I will be pleased to assist with tech support and products required for stripping, cleaning and other tasks. I can be contacted by phone at 978 988 1177 or on line at www.restorationproducts.com My company is a distributor of Napier products and can ship same day direct if you do not have a local dealer. We look forward to your questions and do hope that you all will concider this safer, effective way to undergo stripping your investment.
__________________
Kevin W. Collard
Boston Restoration Supply Inc.
www.restorationproducts.com
866-988-1177
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09-30-2003, 01:09 PM
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#57
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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Clearcoat stripper in Phoenix, AZ:
If you're in Phoenix, it looks like I'll have about half a gallon of the Removall 210 left over. Soon as I'm done, you're welcome to it. Probably this weekend, Lord willing and the creeks don't rise!
Don
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10-01-2003, 07:45 AM
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#58
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3
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mirror finish protection.
I would think that if you paid for the option of a mirror finish you would still need to protect it. Road salts, dirt and grime will also take a toll on even the best finishes. We sell a product for the shiny metal bodied trucks as well as the 210 Napier stripper. It is a film that is easier to remove and replace however the look of a newly coated air stream really can't be beat!!!!
__________________
Kevin W. Collard
Boston Restoration Supply Inc.
www.restorationproducts.com
866-988-1177
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03-19-2004, 02:25 PM
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#59
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3 Rivet Member
1974 31' Sovereign
Texarkana
, Arkansas
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 224
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stripping the clear coat
I have a 1974 Soverign and used the Orange striper from Lowe's and have had great results and it did not damage the skin. It does take a few coats and seems to work best if you do not allow it to dry completely and it hoses off with water. I also bought some aluminum boat polisher from Wal-mart and had really good results with polishing. It does not take a lot of polish, but a whole lot of elbow grease. I used a drill with a buffer to polish and am getting a mirror finish with that. On the sides of my Airstream where the paint was all faded and peeling, I took some fine sandpaper and then painted with oil based paint and this has not faded for nearly two years! I need to know how to remove some of the road rash on the front though---any suggestions?
__________________
imeynstein
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04-09-2004, 11:11 PM
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#60
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New Member
NAPLES
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1
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Stripping
This Is My First Time On And I Was Wondering Where Can I Go, To Down Load Instructions On Stripping And Polishing And Is That The First Thing I Should Do On This Restoration Project??
Thanks Carl
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