clearcoat -plasticoat stripper

[art]

going to polish the old girl . got the nuvite ,cyclo,buffer,ready to go .what is the tried and true stripper? any advise?Tried this jasco sealer and ahesive remover in a spot. dont care for it .It leaves too much behind.

[amfab]

People seem to like Citristrip, ( www.citristrip.com/ )
but to me it seemed too cumbersome to get off all of it. I Like Stripeez ( www.savogran.com ) it washes off with water. Not that you would want to hose all of it off into your yard, but you can wipe off the easy big gloppy stuff and then wash off the remaining film. I havent got into it much just started the stripping a bit ago and had to stop for other things. They both took the stuff off - I just got frustrated gettin the citristrip off afterwards. Its like cleanin up an oily melted orange popsicle-but its toxic. Someone I know uses Klean-Strip ( www.kleanstrip.com/ ) the KS-3 Premium Stripper and he says it worked fine.
Thats my 2 cents and I'm sure there will be more comin from others
-Andrew

[airstreamcaravel]

A previous thread

Have fun ... I did!


DMC

[Creampuff]

I use the Jasco Epoxy and Paint remover and it works like gangbusters.One thing to consider is the temperature and brush.ALWAYS shake the stripper regularly before pouring from the can and work with small amouts.The only active ingredient in good strippers is methylene chloride.The other ingredients are surfactants and wax to control evaporation of the volatile M.C.The temp. should not be too hot (evaporation) and too cold will retard the action.Your brush and technique will make a big difference in whether you get it all off.Use old brushes that are soft bristle and you can afford to loose.Lay the stripper on with minimal strokes and generous material.Don't try to work more than about a 3 foot square area.Work from top to bottom-that way you can move the used material over a new area and get more mileage out of it.I use a sponge with a scotchbrite side to it ,with a wash solution of water, ammonia and dish soap.Starting at the top I wipe the dissolved finish in a horizontal "squeegee"type motion moving the material progressively down and over the next area.You can then begin to see any dry areas and hit them with the scothbrite or move some stripper over them for a few more minutes.A second wash down will usually give you bare metal.The soap and ammonia cut the wax.Avoid too much "scotchbriting"as the object is to end up with the "factory "skin avoiding an extra polishing step.
A 24ft.trailer should cost you about 1 to1.5 gals of Jasco and do't forget the nitrile gloves-the stuff really burns!!

[Chas]

Creampuff is right on, it is still work anyway you slice it!! I made it sound too easy on one of my posts. I usually go over an area at least twice with the stripper routine. If you think it will all just magically slide off with the hose you will be disappointed.

Chas

[Forrest]

You might consider Aircraft Coating Remover found in Checker Auto among other places. You can buy it in the can to brush on or in an aerosol can to spray on. I like the aerosol, more expensive, but not as much waste and easier to use. Be sure to wear an old long sleeve shirt cause if a breeze catches some of the spray and it blows back on bare skin it stings like nettles.

[joe hall]

water and ammonia would cut the wax. I once read somewhere in this forum that ammonia should not be used on an Airstream skin. Did you notice any particular problems? Thank you for your reply.

[jthew1]

"The only active ingredient in good strippers is methylene chloride"

I've monitored this forum for some time, but decided to register and post today in the hopes I might save someones health/life.

I've reviewed dozens (maybe hundreds) of posts regarding paint stripping with various products. But, I believe the above quote says it all.

Methylene Chloride (CH2CL2) is a KILLER! The US Department of Health, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, Guide to Chemical Hazards indicates that:

The permissible exposure limit is 500 ppm (parts per million)!
Is is Immediately Dangerous to Life and Health (IDLH) at 2200 ppm!
It is a Carcinogen (cancer causing) chemical!
It is incompatible with active metals, such as aluminum!
Skin and eye contact must be prevented AND a positive pressure, full face, self contained breathing apparatus must be worn.

I for one, will leave this task to the experts (regardless of the cost) and suggest others might want to consider the same.

This is a great site with a knowledgeable group of people. I thank you for the personal insight I have gained from viewing your posts. I hope mine will be of similar value to you.

Regards

[drboyd]

Really! I just stripped the glue off my concrete patio (carpet was glued down by previous owner of the house) with a JASCO glue stripper, and you can tell by looking at it that it's like The Most Toxic Substance Known to Man. I felt like unborn babies three miles away started growing five extra legs the moment I took the top off the can...

[trailertrash]

Less toxic, and you have to leave it on longer than they say. I like to put it on with a paint roller out of a pan- gobs of it! Then take it to a self serve car wash- use their high pressure, as well as their drain. No sense in having it all over your yard. The pressure takes the residue off pretty well.

Before you get started- check out safari tims plea for help- he's experiencing the "psychlo journey" as well...

[jthew1]

"One thing to consider is the temperature --- other ingredients are wax to control evaporation of the volatile M.C. The temp. should not be too hot (evaporation)"

The (volatile) Methylene Chloride boils and becomes a gas (evaporates) above 104F. Consider the "skin" temperature of an Airstream on a sunny day, not necessarily the air temperature,

Most members in this forum and manufacturers recommendations address the dermal hazards of these products in a liquid form, but overlook the inhalation hazards in a gaseous form.

A chloroform-like odor indicates that the M.C. is volatilizing and one should be on a supplied, positive pressure, full face, self-contained-breathing apparatus (SCBA).

Creampuff, please do not think I'm trying to "bust your chops" or "flame" you in any way by quoting from your post. I am only trying to be of help to the under-informed members of this excellent forum.

[trailertrash]

To go with the health hazards pointed out jthew- check for hydroflouric acid- it eats aluminum and if not thoroughly removed- which is next to impossible around loose older rivets- it can weaken the affected area and cause headaches later- usually much later but, still.

Same chemical should be avoided when acid washing- aircraft approved acid washes are free of this particular acid.

[jthew1]

"check for hydroflouric acid--- it eats aluminum and causes headaches later, usually much later"

Yes, and it eats people and causes brain damage (usually much later), too!

This is what got me started on the subject. I used a (NAPA) hydrofluoric acid spray aluminum wheel cleaner and got an unpleasant reaction (me, not the wheels, they looked great).

Check out this Environmental Protection Agency notice - very scary!

http://www.epa.gov/grtlakes/seahome/...use/alumcl.htm

[DPeakMD]

I'll chime in only from the "doctor side" here and say that methylene chloride IS a risky thing to use -- BUT, if you're using it outside in a well ventilated area, you're probably OK without the SCBA.

The reason MC is a bad thing thing for us is that our liver metabolzes it into Carbon Monoxide! Note: Your liver does this. Your wall detector won't find CO hanging out while you're using it! Hours later, long after you're done, the symptoms will start. If you feel headache, nausea, shortness of breath, chest pain, or decreased level of concisousness--call 911 first, then a regional poison center and tell them what you were using and inform your health care providers.

The key to preventing inhalational exposure is to work in a WELL ventilated environment and avoid getting too close to your work. Avoid dermal (skin) exposure by wearing appropriate gloves, eye protection, etc.

Most of us probably work on our trailers outside in the driveway. But this is key information to remember if you're using this substance inside. It's very risky...take appropriate precautions and remember the worst side effects are delayed!

I could tell you stories about HF, too...bad stuff!

[airstream4]

I just stripped my 1978 sovereign using Napier Removall 210 GREAT and friendly to enviroment! Removall removed 98% am cleaning small spots that remain with aircraft spray from Walmarts. Plasticote peeled off with a power sprayer and solvent and water ran off safely. Plasticote was then swept up and disposed of in rubbish. Aircraft spray is mean stuff and burns to let you know you have it on you! fortunately I used little of it and wiped it off with rags that I disposed of after airing out. Heres a photo of plasticote coming off. Tried Napier SV35as from aircraft spruce and it took three coats to remove what the 210 removed in one coat! Napier says they are almost identical except 210 is a little more agressive!

[airstream4]

will try photo again after reading directions!
NO luck on attaching photo I'll try later!

[Fun-Lovin]

Im taking it is necessary to remove the clearcoat - plasticoat before you can buff and polish the outter shell.
Is this correct?

Greg

[InsideOut]

Yes Greg, you must first remove the old clearcoat/plasticoat prior to polishing the aluminum regardless of the polishing technique you choose.

Shari

[jthew1]

"I'll chime in only from the "doctor side" here and say that methylene chloride IS a risky thing to use -- BUT, if you're using it outside in a well ventilated area, you're probably OK without the SCBA."

Thanks for your input, Doc. Maybe I should get off my "high horse". I'm addressng the issue from a HazMat employers standpoint, not the back-yard do-it yourselfer.

I'll quote from one of the many aircraft stripper manufacturers (Klean Strip Aircraft Remover from NAPA):

"For OSHA controlled work place and other regular users - use only with adequate ventilation under engineered air control systems designed to prevent exceeding appropriate TLV".

"For occasional use - Where engineered air control is not feasable, use properly maintained and properly fitted NIOSH approved SCBA for chlorinated solvent vapors. A dust mask does not provide protection against vapors".

So, I guess the "occasional" back-yard user can feel free to destory his/her lungs, liver, salivary and mammary glands at will.

"I could tell you stories about HF, too...bad stuff!" Please do.

Regards (and practice safe stripping).

Thanks again.

P.S. I have edited this message based on receipt of a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) today, which differs from the information on the can.

[ameeker]

Glad somebody mentioned the Napier products! I didn't know about the 210, but I used the SV35 AC with what I thought were terrific results. Results on areas where the clearcoat was already heavily damaged weren't as good as where it was intact, so maybe this other would work better. But anyway, Napier stripper is hydrogen peroxide based, so it's friendly to the environment and to you. After starting my clearcoat removal with nasty, toxic Klean Strip Aircraft Remover, I sing Napier's praises any chance I get.