Removing stabilizers

[alphamale49]

I couldn't find much information on the forums about removing and repairing/replacing the four stabilizers. A single bolt at the inside end and two pairs near the outside end of the stabilizer for a total of 5 bolts for each stabilizer. I took pictures to post. If I just take these bolts out will the stabilizer come off then, or is something else also holding the stabilizers? Thank you.

[Daytonacoupe]

Should only be the bolts. Soak them first in penetrating oil to avoid snapping them off. Go slow.

[Fungus]

Originally Posted by Daytonacoupe

Should only be the bolts. Soak them first in penetrating oil to avoid snapping them off. Go slow.

^1

Soak them overnight in penetrating oil. A little heat might help if the oil doesn’t do the trick. All the bolts on my stabilizers were easy except one. I unscrewed it a bit, sprayed with penetrating oil, screwed it back in, and left it overnight again. Next day it came right out.

I also painted them safety red. It’s an involved process if they’re already rusted and greased. Looks great though.

[richard5933]

Are you replacing them or just fixing something?

[Rich W]

Those "bolts" are actually trilobular screws, a self-tapping screw that was used to tap the hole in the aluminum framework. http://www.holbrookinc.com/products/extrude_tite. When you hold one between your fingers and turn it you can feel there are 3 distinct 'sides' to the screw; very unique, never saw one before. They were not installed with any kind of lube so they mostly fuse themselves to the frame and bracket. My AS is a 2006, you may have better luck. Most of mine snapped off even after soaking in WD-40 overnight.

On mine the ones in the rear were into the aluminum cross members in the center, which are not very thick. They are also into the frame at the edges. In the front the ones at the edge were into the A frame. I had a difficult time drilling those out because of the heavy steel.


Here are some links to my threads:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f45...rs-213870.html
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ds-215203.html
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f36...lt-225687.html

Before and after stabilizer pic and the end view of the trilobular bolt

[Fungus]

There are much better penetrating oils than plain old original WD-40.

I used Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant with great success on the stabilizers and the brake assemblies. Kroil is an excellent penetrating oil but difficult to apply in this situation. Wear a mask, gloves, and sleeves. It stinks and stays.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Fungus

There are much better penetrating oils than plain old original WD-40.

I used Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant with great success on the stabilizers and the brake assemblies. Kroil is an excellent penetrating oil but difficult to apply in this situation. Wear a mask, gloves, and sleeves. It stinks and stays.

That's the problem in this case. You're working upside down and the stabilizer brackets are covering the screw threads. The screws are self tapping and there is no lubrication on them. In essence, they are frozen/welded into the aluminum frame/A frame. Even the ones I was able to get out had stripped out the threads from the cross members, but the threads in the screws were okay.

[Fungus]

Yes, it can be like a weld if frozen enough.

I wonder if an impact wrench or a little heat from a torch would do any good in that case. I’ve used heat on the bolts holding brake calipers.

[richard5933]

If these are being replaced then perhaps saving all the original bolt hole threads is not necessary. The new jacks are a different length than older ones were, so if this is the situation you will only be reusing the outer holes going into the steel frame. The inner end will land in a different place and require new holes.

Have you measured yours against what you will replace them with?

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Fungus

Yes, it can be like a weld if frozen enough.

I wonder if an impact wrench or a little heat from a torch would do any good in that case. I’ve used heat on the bolts holding brake calipers.

An impact wrench would do just what a regular wrench would do, snap off the screw head or pull the threads out if the screw does manage to rotate. I think I managed to save 4 screws with mostly intact cross member threads out of all 20 screws. Even though threads were saved they weren't strong enough to hold the screw when reinserted. Since the cross member is aluminum and the screw is steel there was probably interaction between the metals to form a bond. Mostly, the center screws had to be replaced with rivnuts and the edge bolts held when I used steel bolts instead of the screws.

I used a hammer drill and went through several bits, forward and reverse. on the front broken off screws, trying to drill them out. Since there are 4 screw holes on the outer edge I was able to get 3 in each of them. It wasn't pretty but they haven't become loose.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by richard5933

If these are being replaced then perhaps saving all the original bolt hole threads is not necessary. The new jacks are a different length than older ones were, so if this is the situation you will only be reusing the outer holes going into the steel frame. The inner end will land in a different place and require new holes.

Have you measured yours against what you will replace them with?

Even so, if keeping the originals, rivnuts worked well, better than original screws, on the inside holes. The REALLY tough ones for me, at least, were the edges.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Rich W

Even so, if keeping the originals, rivnuts worked well, better than original screws, on the inside holes. The REALLY tough ones for me, at least, were the edges.

True. Rivnuts are a good option. My main point was that if some of the holes won't be reused there's no point spending effort trying to save them. Just snap off the old screws in those and carry on.

[Rich W]

That's true. I remember from another thread that the newer ones have a slightly longer reach in to the center. Those are the easy ones because the aluminum strips are very thin, but they are also narrow; don't miss.

I looked for replacements but couldn't find any at BAL at that time. It was a really dirty job to sand down everything, primer and paint. New replacements are definitely the way to go

[Fungus]

The OP 2017 may still have better success with careful removal than a circa 2006 trailer. I’d try to go slow before throwing in the towel. Worked for me on my 2017.

[richard5933]

The OP has a 2017 trailer, and that's the year Airstream switched to the newer style stabilizing jacks. I believe the newer style has square feet, the older round feet.

If they are the new style then you'll reuse all the holes.

https://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?...bmq7ijmg7lck77

[alphamale49]

Actually the only thing that needs repaired is the long screw that you turn to lower and raise the stabilizer. It's only one of them too. It got bent when I tried to park in a tight space at the direction of an incompetent RV park manager with whom I am no longer on speaking terms with after a heated 'discussion'. So I'll go that route and try and replace it. It is seriously bent. It may even be possible to straighten it out. Thanks for all the input.

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by alphamale49

Actually the only thing that needs repaired is the long screw that you turn to lower and raise the stabilizer. It's only one of them too. It got bent when I tried to park in a tight space at the direction of an incompetent RV park manager with whom I am no longer on speaking terms with after a heated 'discussion'. So I'll go that route and try and replace it. It is seriously bent. It may even be possible to straighten it out. Thanks for all the input.

If this is all that's necessary, you might want to just take it to a local welding shop.

The jacks on an Airstream are the same as the jacks used on SOB trailers, with the addition of an extension welded on so that we can reach the jack from outside the trailer.

Since the extension is just welded on any welder should be able to cut it off at the weld, straighten it (or replace the shaft) and then weld it back together. Even better if you have a friend with a welding outfit.

[alphamale49]

Actually, my brother who is a blacksmith/ferrier did something similar to the opposite stabilizer a couple years ago. He is a thousand miles away right now though. I am in Florida. He is in 10 degree weather in central Pennsylvania right now. lol!