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Old 09-04-2020, 06:58 PM   #1
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Removing the Stabilizers

I'm trying to remove the stabilizers on my AS. I found two 1/2" bolts on each of the two leg supports and one 1/2" bolt at the inner support. I loosened all of them but one snapped off. The stabilizer doesn't move at all. Is there something else holding it to the belly? Do I just take the bolts out and pry the stabilizer off?

Also, I'm assuming the threaded portion is seated in the belly and not a bolt somewhere in the belly/floor. I'll have to get some EasyOut extractors for the snapped bolt.
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Old 09-04-2020, 07:14 PM   #2
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On my 86, the stabilizer bolts were self-tapping and two out of three would wring off. Ended up drilling them out and tapping new threads to mount the replacements.
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Old 09-04-2020, 07:45 PM   #3
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Yeah, the three bolts should remove it. Of course it goes through something too. Yours must just be rusted in. Or maybe the bolt that broke still has some grab to it.
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Old 09-04-2020, 08:52 PM   #4
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My 2013 FC 30’s stabilizers had four bolts on the outside and two bolts on the inside. Once all six bolts were removed they just fall off. I extended the stabilizer to the ground so they would not fall easily.
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Old 09-04-2020, 09:08 PM   #5
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After loosening the 4 bolts and snapping the other off I figured it would fall off or at least move a little. Maybe there's rust making a weld. I'll take the bolts totally out tomorrow and see if she comes down. Extending the leg down to prevent a sudden drop sounds like a good idea.

Thanks for the help
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:47 AM   #6
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I got them off, broke off a total of 4 bolts so it will be fun getting them back on again. The bolts had to be totally removed before the stabilizer would even budge. Putting the landing pad down helped to keep the stabilizer from falling on me and took some of the stress off the bolts.

Thanks again for your help
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Old 09-24-2020, 10:25 AM   #7
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I've ordered new 1" flange bolts from Bolt Depot. I gave them the information and pictures of one of the bolts. The old bolts seem to have an odd shape and none of the nuts I have around the workbench seem to fit. Are these a special bolt of some sort?
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Old 09-24-2020, 12:44 PM   #8
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I can't edit the previous post so I'll have to start again.

I have ordered 1" flange bolts, hardness of 8 because that's all they had that were 1". I didn't think these were self tapping because I didn't feel the triangular shape of the bolt until after I had ordered the others.

Bolt Depot has some self-tapping flange bolts of 1", 5/16-18 regular hardness, but they aren't the triangular shape. they have a cross-cut at the beginning but then are a regular bolt after that.

So what would be better? Using the 5/16-18 of hardness 8 or using the self-tapping bolts that are 5/16-18 but only the first part of the bolt is self-tapping?

Bottom picture is looking at the end of the bolt, you can see the triangle shape
Picture on the right is the actual bolt, just looks like a bolt
Picture on the left is the replacement offered by Bolt Depot, tapered end
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Old 09-28-2020, 10:15 AM   #9
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Yes, you can use standard bolts to replace OEM tap screws

I was able to get a very detailed answer to my question about using a regular bolt in place of the OEM self-tapping bolt used by Airstream. The short answer is yes, a regular grade 5 or 8 bolt will work. Here is the detailed reply and attachment I received from an engineer at a machine company I found online. I'm posting here for future reference.

In answer to your main question, yes you can install a standard threaded screw into a threaded hole that was formed by a triangular threaded fastener.

The triangular threaded screw, that you are trying to replace, is commonly called a Taptite screw thread (see attached).
The "Taptite" name is currently owned by a company called Stanley Engineered Fastening.
Other companies make the same style of thread and they call theirs "Type TT Thread Forming Screws" or "Trilobular Thread Forming Screws"
The triangular shape of the taptite screw thread does provide a "locking" action when it is installed into a punched hole (the material thickness of the punched hole should be at least equal to the dimeter of the screw you are installing).
Taptite screws are typically made to Grade 5 strength levels and are then case hardened to provide added strength to the surface to be able to form the thread.
Manufacturers like the taptite thread because it permits the screw to be installed into a punched hole and eliminates the need to tap the hole prior to installing the screw.

Replacing a taptite style of screw with a standard flange screw is an acceptable practice.
You can replace this screw with either a grade 5 or a grade 8 flange screw.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Stanley - Taptite brochure.pdf (1.10 MB, 2 views)
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