Food for thought: IF you repair the holes with toothpicks, bamboo skewers, or golf tees, the screw will be reattached to end grain, meaning with the grain. (Picture a nail hammered into the end of a 2 X 4, it pulls out more easily than a nail into the side of a 2 X 4, across the grain) So your repair will be weaker than the original. If you want to do that correctly, you should use a "plug", sold for woodworkers. Enlarge the hole to the plug size, then you'll be putting the wood screw into the cross grain.
That's why I prefer the threaded inserts. They come in two shapes, one with continuous threads for hardwood, and the one with "wings" for softwood, and plywood. I've used both, they're easy to install, and hold tight.
If you have access to the other side, consider a T-nut.
As someone that owns a 110+ year old house I've encountered more than a few stripped screws in wood, the best solution I have found has been "Woodmate 2498 Mr. Grip Screw Hole Repair Kit" which you can buy on Amazon. I never had good luck with the toothpicks or other options, as I'm usually not wanting to wait around for glue to try to finish the repair. These just slide in and grip solidly, they have held 30" solid wood in my house that get daily use without issue, a lot more strain than a cabinet door.
Remove the screws, and glue in some pieces of toothpicks. After it dries you can screw it back together.
What he said plus I use Kitchen matches, squirt glue in the hole first and force the match stem in after to seal the hole. screw the hinge back right away. The wood is soft enough to compress when the screw is inserted but be ready to wipe away any glue that squeezes out.
Use dowels and wood glue to provide new wood to screw into.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob D
What he said plus I use Kitchen matches, squirt glue in the hole first and force the match stem in after to seal the hole. screw the hinge back right away. The wood is soft enough to compress when the screw is inserted but be ready to wipe away any glue that squeezes out.
after 24 hours, pre-drill the hole for the size of the screw
the epoxy is stronger than the wood
WEST is a very versatile system, and good to have around.They have dry filler materials to blend in, so that the mix does not sag easily, for holes in vertical surfaces. Mask off area with blue tape, and put blue tape over the filler material, to minimize sanding after hardening. Short bits of wood [matches] can also help fill the gap.
No need for fancy store-bought metal solutions IMO.
I use JB Weld Kwikwood. This is an epoxy putty product you can get at Lowes or Home Depot. You slice off a bit, kneed it with your fingers to mix the two types of putty, roll a small amount of the putty into a piece the size of the screw, and using your fingers cram it into the hole, maybe using a toothpick to poke it down in the hole and pack the hole. Using the screw, make a small dimple where the screw hole is (where you will start the screw). Let it cure for an hour or longer. Then screw in your screw.
I've done the toothpick and glue thing for some things, like the fastener that holds a drawer shut. But for a hinge that has a lot of stress on it Kwikwood works real well.
Steve
X2. JB Kwikwood has been my go-to since I discovered it.
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