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Old 07-29-2020, 03:14 PM   #1
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Question on Stripped Out Screws for Hinges

Hey folks -

Question for you - any recommendations how you'd go about repairing stripped out screws that are bolting in the hinges on the under storage of the bed?

Still under warranty - but don't think it's worth the effort to take to a dealership for repair.

I've thought maybe filling the holes with wood filler and letting that dry up and redrilling and screwing back in, but open to any suggestions.

Simple as it sounds, the screws are stripped out that were holding the hinges in and won't keep the cabinet storage drawers in place.

My anxiety and OCD makes me look for the perfect solution amongst my AS peers.

Thx in advance!
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Old 07-29-2020, 03:58 PM   #2
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Remove the screws, and glue in some pieces of toothpicks. After it dries you can screw it back together.
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Old 07-29-2020, 04:23 PM   #3
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^
X2

I use Marine Tex for a more permanent repair.

Get the tapered tooth picks, cover each, one by one with MT, insert in the hole pointy end in first, when full cut flush, let cure for 1/2hr, tighten the screw and let set 24hrs.👍

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Old 07-29-2020, 04:41 PM   #4
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I use JB Weld Kwikwood. This is an epoxy putty product you can get at Lowes or Home Depot. You slice off a bit, kneed it with your fingers to mix the two types of putty, roll a small amount of the putty into a piece the size of the screw, and using your fingers cram it into the hole, maybe using a toothpick to poke it down in the hole and pack the hole. Using the screw, make a small dimple where the screw hole is (where you will start the screw). Let it cure for an hour or longer. Then screw in your screw.

I've done the toothpick and glue thing for some things, like the fastener that holds a drawer shut. But for a hinge that has a lot of stress on it Kwikwood works real well.

Steve
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:59 PM   #5
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Kwikwood X2. You can also let it cure completely, then drill and replace screws.
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Old 07-29-2020, 11:00 PM   #6
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I just cut bits wood and push them in. Golf tee are great. Usually no glue required.
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Old 07-30-2020, 05:43 AM   #7
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Wooden matchsticks work well also.
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:03 AM   #8
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You did say “OCD” right? I too have a bit of this condition...
My solution, assuming that a next size up fastener does not do the trick, is to drill the hole with a Fuller counterbore and then make a plug with a Fuller plug cutter.
A little glue, tap in the plug. Shave off the excess and voila! New fresh wood to screw into.
Hey, I did admit that I have the disease...
By the way, my OCD requires that if I move up a faster size that all of the fasteners in the hinges be made the same. I like things to be the same...
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:46 AM   #9
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threaded inserts

I have repaired a couple of those under bed storage doors as well as the door side latch on my hall closet with threaded inserts. Just get some that are larger than the old screw hole but that take a bolt with a diameter that fits through the hole int he hinge. If i recall correctly (which I may not be) I used 8-32 bolts
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:47 AM   #10
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You all got me laughing. I'm gonna try the kwik product first go around. That OCD gene is bad news.

I appreciate you all. I'll try to get back with results!!!
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:53 AM   #11
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I second the toothpick and wood glue suggestion, would put the screws in while the glue is still wet.


On a somewhat related topic, if you're tired of these hinges popping apart when something snags them there is a fix. Get one of these for each hinge: https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/gr...tor-steel.html


They slide in from the rear and lock the pieces together.
More info in this thread: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...es-126422.html
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevejones View Post
I use JB Weld Kwikwood. This is an epoxy putty product you can get at Lowes or Home Depot. You slice off a bit, kneed it with your fingers to mix the two types of putty, roll a small amount of the putty into a piece the size of the screw, and using your fingers cram it into the hole, maybe using a toothpick to poke it down in the hole and pack the hole. Using the screw, make a small dimple where the screw hole is (where you will start the screw). Let it cure for an hour or longer. Then screw in your screw.

I've done the toothpick and glue thing for some things, like the fastener that holds a drawer shut. But for a hinge that has a lot of stress on it Kwikwood works real well.

Steve
The only thing I would add to this is that you can actually drill a pilot hole in the JB Weld Kwikwood if needed, it is that good. The fixes I have done have lasted for over two years and seem to be permanent with no movement at all and seems to be stronger than the original mounting in the particle board alone.
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:38 AM   #13
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glue...

few cedar toothpicks and then good wood glue.... don't touch
until next day,

be safe
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:19 AM   #14
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This thread inspired me to fix my sink cabinet doors. Pics show the inserts and socket head cap screws used.
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Old 07-30-2020, 11:11 AM   #15
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Dnsapp

Buy a box of large kitchen matches. Take the end of the match that doesn’t strike and break it off in the screw hole flush. You might want to also evaluate the screw itself to make sure it’s the best screw for the job or you might want to visit a hardware section at you building supply and purchase a better choice. Once you’ve done that put the screw back in the hole and it will tighten up your hinge.
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Old 07-30-2020, 11:26 AM   #16
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Put me in the threaded insert camp also.
Those things are really tenacious if installed correctly.

If you must, rather than toothpicks, use bamboo skewers from your grocery store. They're about 5 times the size of a toothpick. Glue with wood glue, like Titebond or Gorilla.
The problem with this fix is it doesn't solve the problem. With the threaded inserts you're using machine screws instead of wood screws and the load is spread over a wide area.

Then, after the fix, get some of the gizmos that slip on the hinge tab so it doesn't come off as easily when bumped.
https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/gr...tor-steel.html
I ordered 40 and have a few extra. Those hinges are everywhere!
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Old 07-30-2020, 04:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labeda14 View Post
This thread inspired me to fix my sink cabinet doors. Pics show the inserts and socket head cap screws used.
Nice!
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Old 07-30-2020, 05:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labeda14 View Post
This thread inspired me to fix my sink cabinet doors. Pics show the inserts and socket head cap screws used.
Nice!
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Old 07-31-2020, 07:32 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsatwork View Post
The only thing I would add to this is that you can actually drill a pilot hole in the JB Weld Kwikwood if needed, it is that good. The fixes I have done have lasted for over two years and seem to be permanent with no movement at all and seems to be stronger than the original mounting in the particle board alone.


Gonna roll with this and then redrill as if it was new wood. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-31-2020, 07:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baby Zeppelin View Post
I second the toothpick and wood glue suggestion, would put the screws in while the glue is still wet.


On a somewhat related topic, if you're tired of these hinges popping apart when something snags them there is a fix. Get one of these for each hinge: https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/gr...tor-steel.html


They slide in from the rear and lock the pieces together.
More info in this thread: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...es-126422.html


YESSSS! Thanks so much. AS sent me some of these clips bc I was b$tching about how a new trailer should be coming apart and hinges stripping out. I didn't know how the clips installed, but I got it now, thanks to you!
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