Trailer Brakes Acting up

[thecatsandi]

I pick up my trailer from the factory yesterday after three weeks of waiting. They did a nice job.
Only one problem.
The brakes are behaving differently then when I dropped it off.
When I dropped it off I had the tow command set to 5.5 This gave goood smooth braking. When I took her out for a test ride with the factory rep. 5.5 nearly jerked me out of my seat. I backed it off to 4.0 same results. 3.0 same results. The tow command shows very little output. First bar. Stopping at highway speeds is better but still seems to have one setting maximum stop. No locking up yet.

I went to Dexters website and they have a trouble shooting guide.
"Harsh brakes" has two possibilities. Brake adjustent not correct or grease or fluild on brakes. Surging Brakes has tow possibilities. grease or fluid on linings or out of round drums. I have disks. This would seem to point to FLuid of grease being the cuprit. They did have to bleed the brakes. after the repair due to replacing the "battery" box which contains the actibrake system. this makes me think they ot some brake fluid on the pads.

Anyone else have an experience like this? What caused it and how did the problem get remedied?

Thanks,

[SilverToy]

Michelle -

Just trying to clarify what I read - the way I read your post, had me thinking that 5.5 had the trailer braking to STRONGLY....right? That was why you backed it off to 4, 3, etc... ending at 1 IIRC.

Taking the above as correct, I would expect the brakes, if fluid was left on the pads/ rotors as having no, or nearly no effect on braking - thus having to raise the controller to ever higher numbers.

Unless, of course, I am completely ass over elbow wrong about this. Entirely possible of course!

Again, if I am reading and extrapolating correctly, I would think that perhaps they put new pads or ? on the trailer, and that is making it brake so strongly - fluid on the same important parts would give virtually NO stopping ability. Great brakes are a terrific thing, but not if they weird you out! I would ask in the shop at JC, and see what EXACTLY they did to the brake system - in excruciating detail, until you get that info nugget that will yield the answer.


You'll feel better, likely safer, and not so weirded out, you'll be able to leave JC, with a TrailerPark Troubadors song in your heart

Happy AirStreaming in the Holiday Season & Happy New Year!

Ciao

Axel

[ticki2]

Sounds like you are getting full aperage to the brakes all the time . Did they have to repair any wiring ? What explanation did the service rep. riding with you give? Could the tow command be toast ?

[empresley]

Michelle,
Assuming you have Elec. over Hyd. disc brakes.
If you have a surge brake system, the following is mute.

Does the new factory installed "tow command" system have two settings?

Many elec. brake controllers have two settings. Synchronization & Gain. When you change the numeric setting from 5, 4, 3, etc. you are changing the "gain". This is basically controlling the amperage or "strength" going to your brakes.
The Sync. setting has a lot to do with reaction time and some other magic stuff. If your controller has both settings; check the sync. setting and make sure is hasn't changed. Generally (except for changes caused by wear, or new trailer, new vehicle, etc.) the sync. setting will remain the same. The gain may be turned up and down based on conditions or load. RV trailers are fairly constant in weight or load. If you were towing an equipment trailer (one day empty, the next day loaded) you would vary the "gain" to compensate for the load or lack of.

Hope this helps.

em.

[overlander63]

Michelle, did they change out the pads from organic to semi-mettallic, or ceramic? After I changed the pads on Rich's trailer, substituting semi-metallic for the organic, he noticed more aggressive braking from the trailer. If the factory went from organic to ceramic, you may notice even more aggressive braking.

[thecatsandi]

5.5 was the setting I used before I dorpped off the trailer and I had no reason to change it. After they fixed the trailer 5.5 resulted in much stronger braking. That is when I backed off the gain on the controller.

I would think fluid would reduce braking and have to up the gain. but that is not what the dexter info said.

I did ask them what they did. The tech told me thay had to remove the actibrake unit to replace the box that contained it. this means dis-connecting the hydraulic line. He said all they did is bleed the system. He double checked the wiring and re-bled the brakes. I specificly asked if they replaced the pads. He said no. I would have thought if the wiring was wrong the the brake system would not work at all. He said if on of the wires was incorrect it could go in the Brake-a-way mode. THere is a local AS deal near Jacksonville. I am goign to give them a call this morning. I am also going to have the local Ford dealer check out the output of the tow command.

[thecatsandi]

Thats what it felt like but if the towcommand is putting out full output I would expect the output bar display to show same. it only shows one or two bars.

[thecatsandi]

The load on the truck went up by a couple hundred pounds. I put a cap on while the Factory was repairing my baby.
The factory tow command does not have a sync, just gain. My prodigy had both. I am seriuosly considering installing that if I cannot get this resolved.

[overlander63]

Contaminated pads WILL cause the brakes to grab, if it is brake fluid and not grease. If they bled the system, they may have gotten brake fluid on the pads.
If they are contaminated, it is an easy and cheap repair. Just go to your local Napa and ask for two sets of front brake pads for a 1986 Chevy Celebrity, 2.5 engin, non heavy-duty brakes. Make sure you install the pads so the squealers (wear indicators) are on the leading edge of the outboard pad. You will need a small hammer to clinch over the mounting ears on the outboard pads, but I think you probably have one somewhere in your toolbox. If you get stuck doing this, and need real-time support, PM me with your cell number, and I will talk you through it. Piece of cake.

[thecatsandi]

They claim and I quote "All I did is bleed the brakes." Now someone may have snuck in there when he wasn't looking and chaged them.

[thecatsandi]

I have a better idea. The trailer is still well within warrenty. Hey AS dealer replace the pads!

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

I have a better idea. The trailer is still well within warrenty. Hey AS dealer replace the pads!

That's even easier and cheaper, if you can take the time to wait on it. I'll be willing to wager the tech got brake fluid on the inboard pads while bleeding them.

[thecatsandi]

Thats what I suspected after reading the dexter info. I am going to call the dealer here in about an hour.
I am at my sisters and her husband is mechanicly challanged. If the have a good screwdriver I feel lucky. I do not have access to a Floor jack. I have the rest of the tools in my truck to change the pads.

Michelle

[Mike Lewis]

Michelle--if you suspect contamination as per fluid, you can crawl under the trailer and see if this is the case without jacking the trailer. Once under the calipers are located in such a way you can see if fluid is present. Secondly if the correct fluid was used during bleeding, dot 3-4, it is water soluable --I would think a good rinse would remove it if that's all thats on them. Personally I doubt this is the problem as it's unlikely a tech would get fluid on the pads evenly enough on all wheels. I could under stand it if you haad one wheel locking.---pieman

[3Ms75Argosy]

is that there was air in the system BEFORE the accident.... which would decrease the braking efficiency.

After the bleed - maybe they work as they are supposed too?

With the decreased gain, are they still grabby? If so, then disregard this info The braking performance should be smooth.

Marc

[2airishuman]

agree that brake fluid on the pads may do this....

terry, i'm not sure the dexters take the same brake pads has the kodiaks?

michelle did you repeat the 'brake set up' procedure from your ford owners manual?

if they removed the actibrake unit, it seems like you would need to repeat the set up?

i'm fuzzy on this since it's been so long...but besides setting the gain isn't there a couple of 'hold the button' type steps for towcommand set up?

will look in my ford manual later....

no time for a test ride at the factory?

leaving with issues unresolved is a bummer and i've done that too....

cheers
2air'

[overlander63]

Michelle, if you want to pull off a wheel, you can always roll one wheel of the trailer up on a couple of 2x4's, and take the wheel off that is no longer on the ground, no jack needed.
Joe, I am not 100% on the Dexter, I have conflicting info on them, one source says the pads are the same, two others say different, all say they are standard automotive pads. If Michelle is willing to wait on A/S that is best, but if she has to be someplace before they can get to her, she will have to tackle it herself. If she has to do it herself, the more info she has the better, I am going to keep trying to find definitive info on pad part number, it would be a help to everyone with Dexters.

[overlander63]

Okay, I just checked with Dexter, and the 3500 pound brakes use the same pads as the Kodiaks. Depending on which pad you choose, the Napa number is AE7070AR, Wagner should be MX7070AR for semi-metallic.

[thecatsandi]

I may have to buy a cheap creeper tomorrow. I took a quick look underneath saw the disks but could not see the calipers.

I made a appt at the local Ford Dealer to Check the Toe Command system next Wednesday. Will let you know how it turns out. There is a dealer kinda on the way to the can opener. I am going to call them next Tuesday. I also called AS of Spokane this evening. His take. Have the Tow Command checked out.

[thecatsandi]

I considered it. I asked several people at the factory. Thier respose was air would delay the onset of braking but the ultimate braking force would be the same once the air was compressed.