6 volt vs 12 volt brakes?

[lwebb]

I have recently purchased another camper. It's either a 54 or 55. The owner says he believes the electric brakes work fine but he hasn't used them in well over twenty years. He knows little about them and that's a bit more than I know.

I assume since they were made in the mid fifties that they are likely 6 volt. Is that correct? If so can my 12 volt feed be reduced to 6 volt somehow.

I haven't seen the connector as of yet. Would the connector possibly fit my current contemporary connector?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have to pick it up on Friday and it's a 16 hour drive away. It's only a 15 footer so I could tow it without them if necessary.
lanny

[Action]

Ford was the last car manufacturer to make the voltage change. They went from 6V pos ground to 12V neg ground in 1956. GM made the switch earlier. Not sure about when other manufacturers did that.

If it is a 1954 or 1955 trailer I bet it has 12v brakes. If they have not been used in 2 decades, don't place any bets that they are gonna work now even if you did get the voltage correct.

Also older units may have had a connector like a modern one, however the wiring was frequently not the same. IE different pins were wired differently than today.

Check an exterior light bulb is 6v. If it is everything else is likely to be 6v. As far as the brakes go, I would replace them entirely with loaded backing plates and be done with it.

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[markdoane]

The original set-up on my '59 was 6V brakes and 12V lights. The instructions were to add a variable resistor, if necessary, to reduce the voltage supplied to the brake magnets. This was for the old KH brake controller.

Regardless, the original magnets have the same resistance as the new ones, and if you have a 'modern' brake controller you can likely set the gain so that the brakes work properly, even without the variable resistor.

I have replaced the axle and brakes on my trailer, but the original brakes still worked ok. You need to 'exercize' the shoes and acutator arms if it thas been sitting for a long time. You need to inspect the bearings and seals anyway, so take a look at the brake springs, hold-downs, and shoes at the same time.

It's neither expensive or difficult to replace the whole backing plate assembly if that's required.

[Action]

Originally Posted by markdoane

It's neither expensive or difficult to replace the whole backing plate assembly if that's required.

And if they are older than dirt ----- highly recommended.

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[john hd]

most retail trailer parts places sell fully loaded backing plates in the 40 to 60 dollar range.

cheap at twice the price!

john

[lwebb]

Thanks everyone, my brake controller has a variable brake intensity control. Sorry I really don't know how these work. Does that mean it is sending more or less voltage to an electro magnet which control the amount of brake applied?

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by lwebb

Thanks everyone, my brake controller has a variable brake intensity control. Sorry I really don't know how these work. Does that mean it is sending more or less voltage to an electro magnet which control the amount of brake applied?

Your guess is right on the money. Although, if your brakes haven't been used in 20 years, I would highly recommend replacing them right away, as the epoxy holding the friction material to the base, or table, or the shoe is not designed to last that long, and may allow the friction material (the shoe part) to pop off, and lock up the affected wheel. If that happens, you could be replacing a drum, also.

[axleman]

Originally Posted by overlander63

as the epoxy holding the friction material to the base, or table, or the shoe is not designed to last that long, and may allow the friction material (the shoe part) to pop off, and lock up the affected wheel. If that happens, you could be replacing a drum, also.

It might just decide to lock-up at the worst possible time (in heavy traffic etc…)



Like my dad used to say (he was talking about cars but I think that it applies) “If you can’t stop it don’t start it”.



Regards,

Henry

[lwebb]

Thanks again all. Since it's only a 15 footer, I will just forgo using them at all. The current owner has had the bearings packed and put on new tires so my return journey, while long, will hopefully be uneventful.
Again, much obliged for the advice.
Lanny

[markdoane]

Lanny,

Have a safe and boring journey!

[Roy B]

Hey Lanny

Saw your post, can't wait till we hit the road for NY with you, will be a blast to see that camper and get it back here in the hills of Georgia. :-)

Roy

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Can someone tell me where I can find a wiring diagram for the trailer coupler. I would like to get the brakes hooked up on a 1972 Sovereign I purchased to use as a utility trailer-it was partially gutted,I finished the job.

[wkerfoot]

Originally Posted by lwebb

Thanks again all. Since it's only a 15 footer, I will just forgo using them at all. The current owner has had the bearings packed and put on new tires so my return journey, while long, will hopefully be uneventful.
Again, much obliged for the advice.
Lanny

I missed this thread when it started, I had the same concern with the 1954 Double Door Liner I picked up in Tampa and towed to So Cal. I was planning on replacing the brakes on only one axle, since it was basically gutted and then towing it back, I would have considered no brakes except for the length - 30' and the distance - 2500 miles.

In investigating the brakes, I discovered that the brakes on a 1954 trailer are completely different from the current style and the drum would not fit over the new backing plate and the also the magnet in the drum was completely different.

Solution, replace both axles and springs with brakes on one axle, will replace the drum brakes with discs during reconstruction. Purchased the axles and springs from Henry at Axis, very satisfied.

Bill

[markdoane]

Originally Posted by BIGGUNDOCTOR

. . . . . 1972 Sovereign I purchased to use as a utility trailer-it was partially gutted,I finished the job.

And you want us to condone this?

Welcome to the Airstream Forums.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Thanks for the welcome. I hope you can see it in your heart to help a guy out. This trailer was headed for the dump when I bought it. A local lake agency told all of the trailer owners that there were going to be no more permanent set ups. It was being converted to day use. The guy placed an ad in the paper for $300,needing work,gone by Friday. He priced it based on what the dump was going to charge him. We made a deal that whatever the back fees added up to would be taken off of the $300. DMV fees added up to $309. He was true to his word and gave me all of my money back. The interior was pretty much gone ,and what little was left was in poor shape and of questionable construction. On a good note the body and glass was in pretty good shape with no leaks. I removed the wood skirt that had been screwed to the lower edges,pulled the house toilet,pedestal sink,and water heater out. Don't have time right now to cut out the shower stall that was grafted in. Could really use some info on the wiring questions I posted. I am planning to leave on Sat. I cannot seem to get a new thread started,keeps getting kicked back. Do they measure the overall length with the hitch? The 72 Sovereign comes up as 31' but I measure 28' on the body. Thanks.

[Action]

Originally Posted by BIGGUNDOCTOR

I cannot seem to get a new thread started,keeps getting kicked back.

This is a server issue. It should be resolved this coming weekend. In the mean time you will be able to post only when you get lucky. (That is by chance)

So the only question is .........

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[wkerfoot]

Originally Posted by BIGGUNDOCTOR

Thanks for the welcome. I hope you can see it in your heart to help a guy out. This trailer was headed for the dump when I bought it. A local lake agency told all of the trailer owners that there were going to be no more permanent set ups. It was being converted to day use. The guy placed an ad in the paper for $300,needing work,gone by Friday. He priced it based on what the dump was going to charge him. We made a deal that whatever the back fees added up to would be taken off of the $300. DMV fees added up to $309. He was true to his word and gave me all of my money back. The interior was pretty much gone ,and what little was left was in poor shape and of questionable construction. On a good note the body and glass was in pretty good shape with no leaks. I removed the wood skirt that had been screwed to the lower edges,pulled the house toilet,pedestal sink,and water heater out. Don't have time right now to cut out the shower stall that was grafted in. Could really use some info on the wiring questions I posted. I am planning to leave on Sat. I cannot seem to get a new thread started,keeps getting kicked back. Do they measure the overall length with the hitch? The 72 Sovereign comes up as 31' but I measure 28' on the body. Thanks.

The trailer plug wiring diagram is at: http://www.airstream.com/airstream/p...lug1966-81.pdf
The Airstream corporate site has a great deal of information in the FAQ section. How far do you have to tow the Sovereign? If it has been sitting for some time the existing brakes probably need replacement.

The trailer length is measured from ball to bumper, usually adding three feet to the body length.

Bill

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Cool , that's what I was looking for. 600 miles to Vegas from here. Only have to hit the brakes a couple of times during the trip. A lot of hours spent just watching the road going under the truck. I pulled the drums to repack the bearings and install new seals. The brake assemblies look like they were never used. No grooves,deep scratches,or much of any wear to be seen. I figure once I get settled in to the new homestead I can do up the Sovereign right. The axles are pretty well set -very little bounce left. Finish gutting the house paint splattered interior. The big project I am looking into is clamshelling the rear section ,like the C-5A's nose,to gain a larger opening for bulky items.I am told a guy in Sparks Nevada has done this. Thanks again for the link.