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Old 01-05-2011, 07:12 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
Nicholasville , Kentucky
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 32
Forced air heater on the go.

This may seem like a goofy question, but here gos. My lovely wife wants to go camping this February in our 1965 Tradewind. The forced air heat system has been replaced by a previous owner with an electronic ignition unit. Since I don't have to worry about a pilot light blowing out while I'm dragging it down the road, is it OK to set the thermostat and drive off? I always wondered how you could get somewhere without everything being frozen solid when you got there.
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:25 PM   #2
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
hi dan

many threads on this topic and NO one consensus approach.

you need to know brand/model and condition of furnace.

the owners packet/install guide on many newer rv furnaces,

will have page on JUST this topic (on/off while rolling)

no manual? it's probably ONLINE.

generally if the suns out and 25 or warmer the unit should be fine...

nite time towing at 30 or colder is different.

((is the plumbing copper or pex or something else?))

((are the tanks metal, fiberglass or polymers?))

((what sort of water pump??))

how tight are the windows and roof vents and misc hatches??

old stuff is different than new stuff (sorta)

here's just 2 threads there are many....



i thing is 4 sure...

if the furnace is used much while towing, the lp gas will vanish quickly.

( i do run the furnace (set to 40) while towing IF the temps are mid/lower 20s)

but trying to keep the trailer 'comfortably warm' while in route is futile.

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:09 AM   #3
2 Rivet Member
1965 24' Tradewind
Nicholasville , Kentucky
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 32
Thank you for the links 2air,

I have both copper and pex in my plumbing and the only external water devise of any note would be the street connection which is copper or brass. I also installed a catalytic heater which I mounted on the wall beside the refrigerator as you come in the door, but considered it to be more of a risk than the forced air. I think after reading everything, I'll just stop and get a cup of coffee every once and a while, heat the trailer back up, then turn it off and drive. My next feat is to get the forced air system back up and running. On my last trip I couldn't get it to make a sound, no fan, no attempt to start, nothing. I was trying to put it off until it was above freezing for a while, but Nancy's ready to get out of town.
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:30 AM   #4
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2014 25' Flying Cloud
Palmer Lake , Colorado
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Originally Posted by Dr Dan View Post
...I also installed a catalytic heater which I mounted on the wall beside the refrigerator as you come in the door, but considered it to be more of a risk than the forced air....
I don't know about the risk, but I routinely run a catalytic heater when going over the passes between Denver and Salt Lake in the winter. Trying to figre out what's going to explode (olive oil, tuna fish?), if it freezes, is impossible. I've never had a problem and the heaters have never quit. It makes towing at -5 tolerable.

I agree with 2Air--running the heater won't keep a trailer warm, it's just a technique to prevent perishables from freezing.

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