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Lothlorian · 12-31-2010, 01:34 PM

I have been been trying to properly fit the new atwood water heater in the hole which had the 1960 Bowen water heater. If you look at the picture you can see I used aluminum angle iron to anchor the hot water heater . Nothing is screwed in yet. I am trying to figure it out. I have fabricated the patch the hot water heater will fit into and a door to put the old overlander chimney on.

What is puzzeling is how the insulation is falling down on top of the water heater. You can see it in the picture. It reaks with fire hazard. I am trying to line up the water heater flush with the outside aluminum skin for my fabricated door.

Any ideas on what I can use to contain the insulation on the top part between the skins. The water heater fits on the top and bottom, but it is a tight fit. Can I put aluminum flashing between the water heater top and the two walls so insulation does not fall. Is the insulation flamable?

Brian

TG Twinkie · 12-31-2010, 02:32 PM

The fiberglass insulation is not flammable; but if there is any wood showing it would be. You could use angle aluminum that is wide enough to cover the gap between the inner and outer skins. Put one lip (edge) of the angle up inside the skin and rivet it to the skin.
But typically the water heater is mounted in such a manner that it is attached to blocks between the inner and outer skin. The front flange of the heater should be outside the outer skin. See the photo below.

Frank's Trailer Works · 12-31-2010, 02:33 PM

you have not bent the side flaps out. The lip goes on the outside of the trailer also. Use Buthyl tape between the skin and the flange it, 1" works best. The brackets go in the corners.

tkasten · 12-31-2010, 02:35 PM

I would think a piece of aluminum flashing would be the ticket. Maybe others will chime in with more ideas.

Lothlorian · 12-31-2010, 02:47 PM

Frank. I installed my first atwood, but that was over three years ago. How do you bend the the flaps?

Brian

Frank's Trailer Works · 01-01-2011, 11:59 AM

... look at the front edge. About an inch in there are perferations. The flange bends 90 degrees there. The brackets bridge the corners. Look at TG Twinkie's post and that should make sense. The water heater should go through the opening from the out side and the flange mounts to skin. I recommend you use some bent aluminum ribs around the opening on the inside to beef it up. I also recommend you use Alclad aluminum to create the patch around the original opening and steer well clear of "flashing". Flashing is a very low grade of aluminum and is entirely too thin.

Lothlorian · 01-01-2011, 02:29 PM

Frank:

I bought my aluminum from a sheet metal shop. It is .032 which dimensions I got from different threads on these air forums postings. I did not order it from the internet and I do not know if it was made for airplanes. One form member said it may not polish like the airstream aluminum. It is some thick stuff and I already pre- cut the patch. I will put all the old aluminum chimney material on it so you will not see it . Two pieces of aluminum. One patch and a door with a piano hinge on it. I think it is going to look really neat.

Brian

TG Twinkie · 01-01-2011, 03:04 PM

When I replaced the water heater. Upon removal of the old unit there were blocks around the perimeter of the hole. They were in between the 2 skins and were pretty rotten. I cut new blocks about 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" and line the opening with them. Kinda looked like a picture frame between the skins. Then I installed the new water heater from the outside and attached it to the blocks thru the skin. You can see the screws in the lip that overlaps the skin.

Lothlorian · 01-01-2011, 03:38 PM

TG:

What a great practicle idea. With all the different materials they have today you picked the most practicle. There is pressure treated wood, plastic wood etc. Here I have been fitting aluminum angle iron. I am going to use my angle iron with wood.

Thanks

Brian

TG Twinkie · 01-01-2011, 05:39 PM

Brian: Don't use pressure treated wood where it will contact the aluminum. the wood has salts in it that will destroy the aluminum. At least that's what I've read in other places here on the forum.