Best location mount auxiliary cooling fan frig

[Ditter]

I have a question about removing refrigerator. I seen in post about the 4 screws and slide unit out of housing.
My question do you need to fabricate a dolly to slide on to? How do you mange the weight? My layout has a closet directly across the isle way. I guess simply what do you do once you slide out I don't want to damage unit?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Ditter

I have a question about removing refrigerator. I seen in post about the 4 screws and slide unit out of housing.
My question do you need to fabricate a dolly to slide on to? How do you mange the weight? My layout has a closet directly across the isle way. I guess simply what do you do once you slide out I don't want to damage unit?

They aren't very heavy. I slid mine right onto a milk crate, which is just about the same height as the fridge bottom, and left it there while working on it and the fan mod.
IIRC, there were also a couple screws inside, at the top, behind the switch board cover (on my model) which fasten the front flange to the cabinet frame.

[SuperTrouper]

OK here we go. I read though all the posts and got some great ideas. I didn't want to pull the fridge to add fans on the condenser so I added a flat squirrel cage type computer fan with a coupla big resistors inline to slow it down (had them left over from a 2 speed muffin fan upgrade to my kitchen hood a while back) in the lower section. I crafted a small aluminum 90 degree "redirector" to take the horizontal fan output and send it up the stack. I placed an electronic thermostat inline with the temp sensor stuck through a hole in the wood panel above the second section of boiler tube return. Then I VHB taped a switch on the thermostat as a master switch and tywrapped the stat to my 12Volt water transfer pump. I set the Thermostat to call for cooling at 95 degrees F for starters. We'll see how it works. I can hear the fan in the trailer but it's not bad. Pictures below. If it works well I might take the time to craft a better enclosure and relocate the thermostat and switch to a panel somewhere. - Brad

[Ditter]

Looks good I was not able to enlarge pic did you angle the defuser you crafted at a angle to get air moving in the upper direction?

I did some research and found that the blower type CPU fan moves more CFM of air than fan per current draw.
But the fan has a 90 deg. discharge to intake and has presented a mounting issue with out the use of a duct or defuser.
Not disagreing with your aprouch I think pulling outside air into chamber is the key and from what I understand the consensus is to pull is better than trying to push. but that mean removing frig. which may not be as bad as first thought. Probably the best approach.
I dropped AS off to have re-upholstery on the jacknife and booth.
Gives me 3 weeks for further research on the safety control with added fan control blower fan kits ARPC has for under $200.
This system utilize a sensor which is mounted on the boiler tube that can operates mutiple fans inside and out of refrigerator.

[SuperTrouper]

Hey Ditter,
If you look at the last pic you can see the deflector I built in my hand. It forces the fan air up between the bottom boiler return tubes. I figure if the air is moving up the stack to the roof vent then fresh outside air will be drawn into the chamber. I watched the ARPC video and it smelled like fear mongering to me. I’m not worried about boiler failure as much as getting the fridge to work in hot weather without ice supplements. I think my mod came in under $50 all in. Time will tell.

[Norrie46]

Have a look at Titan model TTC-SC22. It clips onto the air inlet grating

[dznf0g]

Question: While researching and answering a fellow member's PM relative to bearings, I noted that some fans now have a "hydraulic" bearing. What is that??? Real or marketing?

[primepower]

That looks like a nice and simple setup. Do you have it pushing or pulling the air and do you find if pushing that any air just exit outside the grill where the fan is not in front of?

Originally Posted by Norrie46

Have a look at Titan model TTC-SC22. It clips onto the air inlet grating

[2019streammm]

Fabbed this up in my 25rbt international

[Ditter]

2019streammm
Very nice install how did you mount with screws or hinged
Thanks Ditter

[RivetED]

The refer in my 25' RBT is a side vented design, not the same situation as the OP (Ditter). Our '03 25' had the roof vented refer and living in Texas it needed some help. A simple upward angled 120mm computer fan worked fine.

I looked through the ARPC site and agree with SuperTrouper that it looks more like a fear tactic of marketing. It might be a good solution but it wasn't for me. I think the OP has less of an issue than those with the side-vents.

I finished the install of my home-made 3-fan bracket and with the temps here reaching over 100 F the freezer is below 0 F and the refer is about 37 F with the Dometic 'thermostat' set to 4. I'm pleased with the result, time will tell.

The center fan moves the same CFM as the OEM fan and the 2 side fans move 1/2 as much each, double the CFM of the Dometic fan, with all 3 running. The interior noise is gone! I chose to go with the Dometic thermal switch but also have a bypass switch.

Re: Fan bearings, Noctua calls them "SS02" whatever that means but I mounted the fans on a hinge for easy replacement if/or when necessary.

[2019streammm]

Originally Posted by Ditter

2019streammm

Very nice install how did you mount with screws or hinged

Thanks Ditter

Screwed it. Used the original top two holes from the original fan and on the two bottom screws I have a small bracket that just clamps to the back side of the frame opening so I didn’t make any new hole on the frame

[HappyHapgood]

I still can’t believe how badly airstream ignores and contradicts Dometic installation requirements (note, it’s not a recommendation per their installation manuals, it’s requirements).

The LandYacht have a relatively tall fridge and no roof bent/chimney. It’s side vented. And the coils are actually higher than the side opening and sit in an area of dead air. It’s beyond stupid.

And I’m a tinkerer. Put the two together and some odd results are generated. Here is what I’ve done:

1. Installed the ARP controllers to keep from baking ANOTHER fridge
2. Installed a lower fan to pull air into the chase
3. Installed about 1 1/2” of foam board against the side of the trailer to get closer the Dometic 5/8” sparking from back of fridge to wall requirement.
4. Isolated the heating element flue from fluid evaporative stuff
5. Installed a fan at top to extract hot air, and ducted it so that it’s air HAS to come from the “radiator” and not get pulled from other areas.

Photo below of the upper access work in progress. I don’t seem to have any completed photos nor the lower door.

I did some of this “quick and dirty”. It works, with two downsides: it’s difficult for it to get natural airflow so the fans run a lot. That’s the downside of ducting. Second, did I mention that I did it quickly? I’d love to find someone who is good at bending metal to do this “right” with sheet aluminum and make it look prettier.

[JJTX]

I've had my fridge on three days. Freezer is down to -1f and the fridge goes from 34 in the morning up to 50 at about 6pm in these 100F TX temps.

Ya'll got some good ideas here. I like the 3phase mount in the top window the best. My only question would be them getting wet. I assume nobody has had any problem with that? Seems like the louvered door keeps rain out pretty well.

I also like that idea vs trying to draw a lot of air in so I don't pull any rainwater IN from the bottom with a fan up against it. And, all the heat is at the top anyway.

This is not a surprise. I had the same problem when I left in August last year for the Rockies. We put stuff in the fridge when we got to Colorado where it was not 100f.

ETA:2019streammm

Where did you get your metal bending tool for the aluminum sheet?

The one Thing I didnt see anyone really mention was how much temp difference they observed after installing the fans... With the loc you picked.

At the least, I'm going to change out the factory fan to something quiet, and a little larger. That'll probably help a lot in of itself.

Also does anyone have a URL or link to a fan that would at the least replace the noisy one I got now ?

[2019streammm]

Originally Posted by JJTX

I've had my fridge on three days. Freezer is down to -1f and the fridge goes from 34 in the morning up to 50 at about 6pm in these 100F TX temps.

Ya'll got some good ideas here. I like the 3phase mount in the top window the best. My only question would be them getting wet. I assume nobody has had any problem with that? Seems like the louvered door keeps rain out pretty well.

I also like that idea vs trying to draw a lot of air in so I don't pull any rainwater IN from the bottom with a fan up against it. And, all the heat is at the top anyway.

This is not a surprise. I had the same problem when I left in August last year for the Rockies. We put stuff in the fridge when we got to Colorado where it was not 100f.

ETA:2019streammm

Where did you get your metal bending tool for the aluminum sheet?

The one Thing I didnt see anyone really mention was how much temp difference they observed after installing the fans... With the loc you picked.

At the least, I'm going to change out the factory fan to something quiet, and a little larger. That'll probably help a lot in of itself.

Also does anyone have a URL or link to a fan that would at the least replace the noisy one I got now ?

I have a small metal break in my shop. It worked but i had to make it work. I have a friend making me a few of these panels for me if you interested. The fans I bought on amazon and they are waterproof and a lot quieter. My fridge temp has been staying at 37-39 degrees on 4 and it’s been 101 degrees here for over 10 days now. I’m in Northern California.

As you can see in this pic I had to cut the bent sections in the middle so I bend it in my break

[JJTX]

Ah nice, That picture helps. I'll keep your offer in mind if I start having issues getting something done.'

I checked my fridge this AM. 36F. I'm betting it rises as temps hit 100 today.

I noticed I had the temp clip sensor on the bottom of the fin. I moved it to the top. Maybe that will give me a few degree's enough, to load up some things before we leave. But meats and eggs will have to go in the coolers if not.

I think a simple fan replacement for what is-there already will make a difference as it does not push much air.

[primepower]

I finally got my RV back from the dealer and all the parts in to do my own install of a fan. Being a marine engineer I decided to use a bilge fan. I installed an inline fuse going to a push button switch so I can turn it off and on when needed. Then it is rounded to a temperature controller and then to a speed controller for the fan. The bilge fan at full speed puts out 130 CFM, lots of air but also way too loud. I plan to keep it at a lower speed in most temps and raise it when needed. I did see a 7-degree drop on the condenser while using the setup. It would be nice to have some kind of angled bracket or something to force the air to go up but I won't complain about a 7° temperature drop. I'm sure some of the air is going up and down but also some is blowing off the back wall and getting recycled. when first installed the fan made a serious vibration and so I also added a cork and rubber compound pad to remove the vibration and so far it has.

[PaulnGina]

If you don't mind linking to my thread on our Avion forum, here is what I did regarding fans on the back side of the fridge....... it works very nicely.



https://www.aviontrailers.net/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=342

[Lafitte]

[Betterboat]

Thanks for your post how are you able to get an exhaust fan in the roof vent ?I have a 2017 international and can’t see any way to access the vent cover unless I drill out the rivets.
We do a lot of camping in Florida and looking for ways to improve refrigerator cooling.