2007 Safari 23 SE Hot Water Heater Not Working

[KeninTexas]

Hi all,
Went camping in Grapeland, TX a few weeks back at a campground called Salmon Lake. Hot Water heater worked the first day. I noticed that the hot water heater access door and outer skin above the door had soot on it so I assumed it was burning rich. On day 2, I wiped the soot off and tried to turn on the hot water heater on the switch above the sink. No red light and the hot water heater would not start. I replaced the 2 amp fuse on the hot water heater and checked the main fuses on the converter but could not not find any fuse issues. Hoping someone can help me trouble shoot this issues. Thanks all...

Ken and Sandy

[GCinSC2]

Likely debris is blocking the U tube heat exchanger. Spider web etc.

Other is the sliding air mixing control is not allowing enough air and runs rich. The slots open 1/4” is a ball park eyeball. Just less than full open.

To clean heat exchanger. Turn propane off. Remove burner assy. Not the gas solenoid. It’s just a few screws. Remove exhaust vent louvers. Snake a wire thru tube. Attach small rag to wire pull back thru to pull debris. Make sure rag is secure.

Test fire.

Gary

[Rich W]

I've had the soot issue before. I found a stink bug in the gas tube. I carry some pipe cleaners now to snake it out before the first seasonal use. I suggest you use something flexible to clear the tube and clean soot off around the thermocouple.

When you flip the switch above the sink, do you hear a click outside?

[Rich W]

From my Attwood manual:
NO SPARK AND NO GAS
No voltage --------------------------------------------------------Correct power supply - minimum 10.5 VDC
Dirty edge connector on circuit board--------------------------Clean edge connector
Defective thermal cut-off ----------------------------------------Replace thermal cut-off
Defective ON/OFF switch ----------------------------------------Replace switch
Defective circuit board--------------------------------------------Replace circuit board
Defective thermostat----------------------------------------------Replace thermostat

Thermal Cut-Off heat sensing diode that cuts
power to circuit board if a flame
backs out of the burner tube or
flue tube normally caused by an
obstruction in these areas

THERMAL CUT-OFF DEVICE
Current Atwood direct ignition water heaters are equipped
with a thermal cut-off device. This device is located on the
incoming power wire and is connected to the thermostat. The
thermal cut-off is designed to permanently break circuit and
shut down the water heater before excessive heat can cause
damage due to obstructions in the main burner tube or flue
tube caused by spiders or mud wasps. These obstructions
can cause the main burner flame to burn outside the main
burner tube. When the flame or the heat from the flame
contacts the thermal cut-off, the circuit will open.

If there is no heat damage to the thermal cut-off, and if it is
determined defective, Atwood will cover the replacement of
this device under warranty. We will allow .25 hour at your
Atwood approved warranty rate. If there is heat damage the
device performed its safety feature and no warranty labor will
be allowed. Any obstructions should be removed, alignment
checked and gas pressure taken before a new thermal cut-off
is installed.

Note: When replacing a thermal cut-off, also examine the grill
in the access door while the door is in the closed
position. The wide aluminum band of the grill should
be at the bottom. If it is at the top, this condition may
trap exhaust heat and possibly also cause thermal cutoff
to trip. To correct, remove the grill from the door
and snap back in place with the wide aluminum band at
the bottom.

[KeninTexas]

Thanks Gary. I will give this a try to address the soot issue.

Thanks
Ken

[KeninTexas]

Rich,

Thanks for the great insight. Lot going on here so I will work through this and reply on the results.

Thanks
Ken and Sandy