Power cord

[airforus]

I damaged my power cord this weekend (see photo). Can this be fixed with out completely replacing it? It looks like I would have to dismantle the lounge area inside to get to the connection point . Thanks for help!

Curtis

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by airforus

I damaged my power cord this weekend (see photo). Can this be fixed with out completely replacing it? It looks like I would have to dismantle the lounge area inside to get to the connection point . Thanks for help!



Curtis

Consider adding a junction box and splicing in a new cable outside

[uncle_bob]

Hi

I'd bite the bullet and do it right. Replace the cord and run it into the same place the old cord went into. You will have a lot less trouble down the road doing it this way.

Bob

[GCinSC2]

I recently replaced the entire 7 way cable on my 2007. I used an 11' cable and none left over to spare.

Not sure how yours is routed but this was mine. Cable comes thru the floor at the center of the trailer, turns to street side goes thru street side frame and then into A frame tongue thru grommet. Turns forward and exits the A frame thru a grommet again near the jack.

Tips to make it easier?

Black heavy wire is positive battery, hot unless you disconnect at batteries.
Take pics of junction box connections, label as req'd.
Connect a 15-20' length of para cord to the cable at the junction box. It makes a return snake pull cord. It will get pulled thru tracing routing of cable.
Do this on a warm day, cable is softer bends easier.
Lube the new and even old cable to get it thru grommets. Yeah it helps alot. I used dielectric grease just cause its thick, slimy and doesn't affect the insulation etc.
Remove a section of the new cable outer jacket, maybe a foot or so.
See if you can cut short pieces out of the shortest running colors. Leaving whatever is farthest point away full length. Lightly tape the shorter wires to each other this is trying to taper the end of the cable and help it go around the bends.
One person pulls para cord, other pushes and guides new cable in thru grommets etc.
Crimp eyelets on cable, attach and check work.

Gary

[ITSNO60]

whoops I didn't look at it close enough and didn't see it was the 7 way, I am in the replace it all camp

[Mollysdad]

Here's a suggestion.
When you finish, remove the lock from your coupler and replace with this:

Then loop your 7 way through it. It keeps it off the ground and centered so it won't pull on sharp turns.
It's called a Round Wire Lock Pin
Lowe's for about $3. Check the diameter of the coupler hole 5/16"???

[airforus]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

I recently replaced the entire 7 way cable on my 2007. I used an 11' cable and none left over to spare.

Not sure how yours is routed but this was mine. Cable comes thru the floor at the center of the trailer, turns to street side goes thru street side frame and then into A frame tongue thru grommet. Turns forward and exits the A frame thru a grommet again near the jack.

Tips to make it easier?

Black heavy wire is positive battery, hot unless you disconnect at batteries.
Take pics of junction box connections, label as req'd.
Connect a 15-20' length of para cord to the cable at the junction box. It makes a return snake pull cord. It will get pulled thru tracing routing of cable.
Do this on a warm day, cable is softer bends easier.
Lube the new and even old cable to get it thru grommets. Yeah it helps alot. I used dielectric grease just cause its thick, slimy and doesn't affect the insulation etc.
Remove a section of the new cable outer jacket, maybe a foot or so.
See if you can cut short pieces out of the shortest running colors. Leaving whatever is farthest point away full length. Lightly tape the shorter wires to each other this is trying to taper the end of the cable and help it go around the bends.
One person pulls para cord, other pushes and guides new cable in thru grommets etc.
Crimp eyelets on cable, attach and check work.

Gary

Did you have to remove the belly pan to do this job? I believe the connection point on mine is in the front behind lounge area. I had that upholstered last year and had to remove all of that to do this. On the very front of inside against the wall was a connection box. Will try to reach out to Mother Ship for confirmation.

Curtis

[GCinSC2]

Curtis

No pan was left as is on MY rig. Each trailer model has its layout I bet.

You can see a lot just by laying down just under the front street side and see where the 7 way cable runs. And yours might be really different than mine.

Gary

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Here's a suggestion.
When you finish, remove the lock from your coupler and replace with this:

Then loop your 7 way through it. It keeps it off the ground and centered so it won't pull on sharp turns.
It's called a Round Wire Lock Pin
Lowe's for about $3. Check the diameter of the coupler hole 5/16"???

Oops, there was supposed to be a picture.

[ROBERT CROSS]

^
As so...

Bob
🇺🇸

[Fungus]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

^
As so...

Bob
🇺🇸

How do you attach the cable to the truck? Are those zip ties?

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Fungus

How do you attach the cable to the truck? Are those zip ties?

I've never used zip ties, ponytail loops, or Velcro. Although the connection seems fragile, the lid has a positive hook with the connector. Using the round wire clevis pin keeps the wire centered and there's less pull as you turn.