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Old 08-04-2009, 03:53 PM   #21
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Thanks Az,

So it must be 15 amps. Now next question...
Am I OK running 4 small fans and Dometic frig with heavy duty extension cord (I think about 50') from that house outlet to trailer 3 prong adapter plug to big electrical trailer connection to trailer? That's a mouthful...
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:25 PM   #22
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30 amp vs 20 amp

This past weekend was spent at grandson's baseball tourney and set up in front of a friends house who happens to be a retired electrician. I had to use my 50 Ft. extension cord to make it to the 20 amp plug at his garage. I happen to have a separation in the outer jacket of my extension cord at the plug so he was able to clamp his ampmeter around the black wire. My 26 Ft. Argosy pulled 3 amps with the refer on and 13.5 amps with the dometic AC going full load. I wish now I would have turned on all the lights to see if that would exceed the 20 amp rating. I have been plugging in to 20 amp at home and run the AC and keep the refer cold for weekend getaways. Its hard to check amperage draw unless you have the right equipment ( and a ratty cord)!
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:11 PM   #23
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Thanks Az,

So it must be 15 amps. Now next question...
Am I OK running 4 small fans and Dometic frig with heavy duty extension cord (I think about 50') from that house outlet to trailer 3 prong adapter plug to big electrical trailer connection to trailer? That's a mouthful...

The short answer - Depends........

Check your fans for a plate that has information on power requirements such as 120V 2amps - add up the amps and check to make sure it's the operating amps and not the startup amps. Then check your fridge information plate or manual. Add that to the fan total. That should give you the max draw for your load - keep in mind you may be operating other unknown electrical items such as the power converter or tank monitors, etc.... There are calculators online that tell you the drop in power for a cord over some distance. Look one of those up and that will tell you the power you have at the end of the plug by the trailer. It should exceed the draw amount.

I have added the trailer box to a 30amp breaker at my house - very easy to do with common tools. I recommend doing that for safety.

Mike
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:17 PM   #24
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I used a 30 amp 120v, RED DOT CODE KEEPER setup for the RV outlet..
What's nicer is, if you can put in a regular 120v gfi outlet too..
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Old 08-05-2009, 04:23 PM   #25
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The POs of our house had electric and water put in to the RV garage. The circuit breaker at the main box is 30a, however the receptacles at the garage are 15a each (we have two receptacles). When we add the 15a adapter to our 30a plug, we are able to use our A/C. Is it possible to replace the two 15a receptacles with one TT30-R receptacle, or does it need to be completely rewired?
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:56 PM   #26
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The short answer - Depends........
I have added the trailer box to a 30amp breaker at my house - very easy to do with common tools. I recommend doing that for safety.
Mike
What is a trailer box?

Carol
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Old 08-06-2009, 06:56 AM   #27
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Yes, you should be able to replace two 15a outlets with a 30a if there is a 30a breaker in the main panel. Make sure the cabling coming from the 30a breaker is at least #10 AWG all the way to the new 30a plug.
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Old 08-06-2009, 01:58 PM   #28
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What is a trailer box?

Carol
Available at all home supply big box stores.

It's the same 30amp plug you would use at the RV park so no new cables. Just make sure when you add it you get a permit and/or a licenced electrician to inspect/install one for you using the correct wiring and breaker in the main box.
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:01 PM   #29
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Hey thanks!

Next question... If I get that installed at my patio outdoor outlet, what should I use to hook up from there to the back end of my trailer, about 20 yards away?

Carol
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:26 PM   #30
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Hey thanks!

Next question... If I get that installed at my patio outdoor outlet, what should I use to hook up from there to the back end of my trailer, about 20 yards away?

Carol
Carol,
"That" is what...? The RV box with the 30 amp socket?
It sounds to me like you need an "extention cord"..20 yards (60 ft) is longer than most RV normally supplied AC cable..
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:46 PM   #31
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Sorry for the confusion, my post was a reply to Clancy boy's post #28 in this thread.
If I install the box, then is it OK to use my heavy duty outside electrical 50' cord to hook to my main trailer connection?

Carol
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:36 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cclarkego View Post
Sorry for the confusion, my post was a reply to Clancy boy's post #28 in this thread.
If I install the box, then is it OK to use my heavy duty outside electrical 50' cord to hook to my main trailer connection?

Carol
Carol,
That's okay..
I would say yes..just be sure not to run the A/C and, the microwave at the same time..(those are the two biggies).
Keep the extension cord's wire gage as heavy as possible to prevent voltage drop..
Good luck~
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:45 PM   #33
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Yes, you should be able to replace two 15a outlets with a 30a if there is a 30a breaker in the main panel. Make sure the cabling coming from the 30a breaker is at least #10 AWG all the way to the new 30a plug.
Thanks, Mark, that's what I suspected, but I wanted to make sure. Now the problem is finding the receptacle....Home Depot here has nada for RV receptacles or plugs
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:16 PM   #34
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OK, I have no AC and I keep my life cool with little fans here and there.
Now, I have a small microwave in the garage that I want to bring in.
I checked post #23 in this thread again, I'll try to do the math on everything to see if it looks OK. I have not yet gone out to get the RV box yet.
What happens if I hook up the microwave and turn it on tonight and I figured something wrong?
Does my trailer explode in flames?
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:01 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by cclarkego View Post
OK, I have no AC and I keep my life cool with little fans here and there.
Now, I have a small microwave in the garage that I want to bring in.
I checked post #23 in this thread again, I'll try to do the math on everything to see if it looks OK. I have not yet gone out to get the RV box yet.
What happens if I hook up the microwave and turn it on tonight and I figured something wrong?
Does my trailer explode in flames?
Check the voltage in your outlets in the trailer with the load on (microwave, refrig, welder, blast furnace, etc.) Electric motors don't like bad (low) voltage or bad frequency (less or more than 60 cycles). If you have electric motors that sound like they are running slow, or getting hot, I'd suspect your power to the trailer is low. You shouldn't have problem with frequency unless you're on a generator or you went through the little door and woke up in Europe. I find the digital voltmeters do pretty good at telling what your AC voltage is, and I'm always using them on the DC mode to figure out if the batteries are failing or its my imagination. Home Depot, Lowes, maybe Radio Shack. Dont get too cheap but you don't need the precision test models either. Oh, be sure to not plug in your volt meter lead plugs to the AMP mode, that will burn up your meter (bought that shirt). Pretty soon you'll be giving us lessons in E=IR, low voltage will be causing big amps. Long long extension cords give low voltage.
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Old 08-07-2009, 07:55 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cclarkego View Post
OK, I have no AC and I keep my life cool with little fans here and there.
Now, I have a small microwave in the garage that I want to bring in.
I checked post #23 in this thread again, I'll try to do the math on everything to see if it looks OK. I have not yet gone out to get the RV box yet.
What happens if I hook up the microwave and turn it on tonight and I figured something wrong?
Does my trailer explode in flames?
Carol,
I have been living in my A/S since the first of June, while my new home is being rehab. I have used the microwave and the A/C all the time, just not at the same time. It's plugged into my garage which has it own power service. 95% of the time, the only thing running is the frig.
You shouldn't have anything to worry about bursting into flames..
If, for any reasons, you should overload the Airstream's circuit?
It will just trip the fuse box. It is very sensitive to being slightly abused..Ask me how I know this..
Home Depot has the RV box, with the single 30 amp plug, for under 30$.
You should be able to find a similar one..
ciao
53FC
BTW, the house is just about ready now for moving into..YEA~
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:49 PM   #37
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Carol,
I am going to say this and hope that others will chime in more.
The length on an extension cord is a killer of many electrical appliances, especially ones with motors. There is just too much drop in voltage when you run a long cord. My best advice would be to have a licenced electrician run you a service box with the correct guage wire to a location where you park your trailer. The wires run should be heavier than the extension cord and therfore much more capable to carry the full load of your trailer. Hooked directly to the service box or fuse box on your home, this will provide all the power you would ever need. If you ever do decide to get an AC then you would be covered.
One other method would be to have the RV box placed on your home and have a special cord made up by your electrician that can carry the load better then a cord from a home supply store. In most cases the heavy duty cords are no more capable than the standard cords in wire guage - they just put more rubber on the covering and re-label them, look for a wire guage of 10 or even 8 (smaller guage = larger wire, don't ask me why). Longer runs need larger wire.
Look at this as a chance to get water supplied out to the trailer in the same trench as the power line.
Mike
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:20 PM   #38
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Carol,
I am going to say this and hope that others will chime in more.
The length on an extension cord is a killer of many electrical appliances, especially ones with motors. There is just too much drop in voltage when you run a long cord. My best advice would be to have a licenced electrician run you a service box with the correct guage wire to a location where you park your trailer. The wires run should be heavier than the extension cord and therfore much more capable to carry the full load of your trailer. Hooked directly to the service box or fuse box on your home, this will provide all the power you would ever need. If you ever do decide to get an AC then you would be covered.
One other method would be to have the RV box placed on your home and have a special cord made up by your electrician that can carry the load better then a cord from a home supply store. In most cases the heavy duty cords are no more capable than the standard cords in wire guage - they just put more rubber on the covering and re-label them, look for a wire guage of 10 or even 8 (smaller guage = larger wire, don't ask me why). Longer runs need larger wire.
Look at this as a chance to get water supplied out to the trailer in the same trench as the power line.
Mike
Good advice there.. IF you decide to go with the extension cord.. do not buy one from lowes, home depot, etc... either buy one at an RV store, or have one built by an electrical informed person or friend, using the right type and gauge of wire needed, and NO longer then needed.
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Old 08-07-2009, 05:28 PM   #39
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Plugging in at home

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Oh, be sure to not plug in your volt meter lead plugs to the AMP mode, that will burn up your meter (bought that shirt)
Can you explain how you do this so I am sure NOT to do it?

Carol
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Old 08-07-2009, 05:34 PM   #40
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Next question:

Quote:
If, for any reasons, you should overload the Airstream's circuit?
It will just trip the fuse box. It is very sensitive to being slightly abused..Ask me how I know this..
Please mute all laughing channels.......I believe the fuse box is somewhere in the back of the trailer. How would I know which fuse tripped?

Carol (aka Electroidiot)
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