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finn2020 · 09-11-2007, 07:23 AM

When I connect via shore power the power on light does not come on. The 120v sockets, aircon, fridge and 12v sockets work - The battery does not seem to be charging - Is the univolt faulty?

tphan · 09-11-2007, 08:55 AM

hi- If your battery is not charging when connected to shore power, then either the converter is not working properly, or the battery is shot. I think the "power on" light should work though, check the bulb and fuses. A good new converter is the "Intellipower" unit, sold here by a forum member. Good luck, doesn't sound like a tricky problem.

Inland RV Center, In · 09-11-2007, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finn2020

When I connect via shore power the power on light does not come on. The 120v sockets, aircon, fridge and 12v sockets work - The battery does not seem to be charging - Is the univolt faulty?

The "power on light," can burn out.

Or, if someone changed out the univolt, they may have used a charger that does not operate the power on light.

What converter is in the trailer?

Andy

AronS · 10-08-2007, 05:46 PM

I have the same thing going on--I replaced my Univolt with an Intellipower unit several months ago and the light worked before but when I replaced the Univolt there was a spare wire left over but I didn't know to what that should go--I vaguely remember trying to hook it into +12 volts on the Intellipower but that didn't light it. Anyone know to what it should go?

Thanks,

Aron

richinny · 10-08-2007, 06:59 PM

do a search for "wall wart" and intellipower. your answer is out there!

Excella CM · 10-08-2007, 08:00 PM

If I read you correctly, you have no pilot light AND no charging. If that is so, then it sounds like the univolt is not connected or not working, that is, if you have the original type univolt. If it was converted to one of the newer switching power supplies, then the telltale may not be hooked up and there may be a blown fuse. You'll need to get out the old voltmeter and see what's what.

AronS · 10-09-2007, 09:39 AM

I just re-read the original post, my situation is different--sorry about that!

I have a new Intellipower and the 110 volt and 12 volt circuits are working correctly. My question is how to illuminate the control center panel charging/shore power light when the Intellipower is plugged in and providing 12 volts, just as the Univolt did.

Thanks,

Aron

richinny · 10-09-2007, 04:40 PM

aron

see if this helps

post #9

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...olt-33136.html

AronS · 10-09-2007, 05:08 PM

Thanks, Ricky, I will try that out. Grounding the lead was the one thing I know I didn't try. I guess it is within reason after I discovered that was how the porch/step light worked too (always hot with a switched ground).

Aron

richinny · 10-09-2007, 09:12 PM

be careful! remember that you have two electrical systems. one system is 12v dc and the other is 120v ac.

steve hughes · 10-11-2007, 02:26 PM

How would I know if my converter has a charger or not?

I don't mean to change the subject but, if my battery is dead and still hooked up in line to the converter and the tow vehicle is hooked up to the camper, would this cause the running lights not to work?

**azflycaster** · 10-11-2007, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve hughes

How would I know if my converter has a charger or not?

I don't mean to change the subject but, if my battery is dead and still hooked up in line to the converter and the tow vehicle is hooked up to the camper, would this cause the running lights not to work?

I am going to assume that you are towing and your running lights are not working. In that case I doubt that your convertor is hooked to shore power. The battery should charge from your truck.

Either way, makes no difference. Your running lights get their power from your truck. If they are not working, check the plug from the truck to the trailer.

steve hughes · 10-11-2007, 03:01 PM

Thanks for the reply.
So I know my battery is dead and you are saying that it does not matter because the power from truck does not go thru the battery for the running lights. Its like a non camper trailer with lights wright?

**azflycaster** · 10-11-2007, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve hughes

Thanks for the reply.
So I know my battery is dead and you are saying that it does not matter because the power from truck does not go thru the battery for the running lights. Its like a non camper trailer with lights wright?

Correct. Brakes, running lights, brake lights and turn signals all are powered from your truck.

steve hughes · 10-11-2007, 03:09 PM

thanks very much.

AronS · 10-16-2007, 04:56 PM

I know we've got two similar but slightly different things going here but I thought I should update folks and pose a question since I got out to the trailer over the weekend and tried something....

In sum, I replaced my Univolt with an Inteli-power 65 amp 9200 series several months ago. I'm trying to get the 'pilot' light (the small bulb inside the control center at the front of the coach) to indicate when the Inteli-Power is providing 12 volts. Turns out the pilot will light with 12 volts DC NEGATIVE will light it up. Thinking I finally figured it out I hooked up the little lead to the 12 volt negative output on the Inteli-Power and it lit up, so I unplugged the 110 to the Inteli-Power and the pilot light stayed lit. Makes sense since it's getting 12 volt negative from the battery. At lunch today I ran down to Radio Shack and picked up a diode to put in line so that the 12 volts from the battery won't feed back into the panel light.

I can't see any reason why this wouldn't work, can any of you?

Thanks,

Aron

HiHoAgRV · 10-17-2007, 03:24 PM

If you are attaching the diode so the syatem charges by going through it, you will need a 65 amp diode

.

Sweski · 10-17-2007, 05:20 PM

Your trailer battery is very important, because in the event of a breakaway, the trailer battery will set the brakes on the trailer. Without it, you gots a real silver bullitt.

AronS · 10-18-2007, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

If you are attaching the diode so the syatem charges by going through it, you will need a 65 amp diode

.

Except that there are two 12 volt feeds--one for the power/charge and one for the indicator lamp. Current should flow toward the path of least resistance and a diode in the way compared to unadulterated 4 GA. should look pretty unattractive, not to mention that part of the indicator circuit includes a relatively high resistance light bulb filament. Sounds good in my head but I won't sleep well until I wire it up, and unfortunately I won't be able to get to the trailer 'til next weekend!