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billberk · 08-02-2007, 05:33 PM

I left my trailer plugged into my 30 amp service at the house today. At some point the power went out, but was back on when I got home.

The battery must be almost drained. Dim lights, fan won't open, AC not working. Should this be happening? I'm plugged in to 30 amp service and the volt meter is in the green. Should I not have power to run everything and the battery be charging?

**moosetags** · 08-02-2007, 05:41 PM

First thing to do is check the circuit breakers and fuses in the panel. The shore power problem may have tripped the breaker for the converter.

billberk · 08-02-2007, 05:47 PM

Circuit breakers were the first thing I checked. I'll run out and check the fuses.

billberk · 08-02-2007, 05:59 PM

Fuses are all fine

**moosetags** · 08-02-2007, 06:05 PM

The next thing that I would try is disconnecting the shore power (30 amp) for a couple of minutes and place the system into the "store" mode. Reconnect the shore power and see if this corrects the problem. The store/run switch should come back on automatically. If not reset it at its switch. The little red light should be on.

billberk · 08-02-2007, 07:17 PM

Tried the disconnect/reconnect test. Checked all breakers and fuses I can find. I'm at a loss.

It appears I'm connected to shore power but running off a dwindling battery. Could I be missing some inline fuse or breaker? The manual is not very helpful. If the converter was bad, wouldn't I have no power at all?

Maiden voyage isn't looking very good for tomorrow.

bibbs · 08-02-2007, 08:01 PM

sounds like the charger isnt charging,did you check battery/charger conections? do the lights get lighter when the charger is powered up?They will if the charger is working.

Doug

lewster · 08-02-2007, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billberk

Tried the disconnect/reconnect test. Checked all breakers and fuses I can find. I'm at a loss.

It appears I'm connected to shore power but running off a dwindling battery. Could I be missing some inline fuse or breaker? The manual is not very helpful. If the converter was bad, wouldn't I have no power at all?

Maiden voyage isn't looking very good for tomorrow.

Sounds like the converter is not operating properly. It should be able to run all of your 12VDC applications even without the presece of a battery, as you have a new style switch-mode converter.

Get a voltmeter and check the output to the battery at the converter's DC fuse panel. It should be reading 13.2+ VDC. If not, and you have verified that all of the fuses are normal (do a continuity check, don't just look at them) then the converter needs to be replaced!

Let us know what you find for output voltage...............

billberk · 08-03-2007, 04:02 AM

Thanks Lewster. You have just confirmed our rookie fears. So now we just have to figure out how to do this test. Understand checking fuses, but not exactly sure what to touch with the voltmeter to test output.

billberk · 08-03-2007, 04:09 AM

By the way, are there any additional reading materials we should purchase to help us with our rookie learning curve? Or is it pretty much trial by fire when you buy your first RV? The owners manual is woefully inadequate when it comes to trouble shooting. We are just so glad to have all of you on the forums to turn to.
THANK YOU!

billberk · 08-03-2007, 06:29 AM

I'm guessing I touch the leads from the voltage meter to the posts of the red and white wires on the CD panel to check voltage. That sound correct?

billberk · 08-03-2007, 07:41 AM

Or if that doesn't work, I'll try the DC panel.

flitzwhopper · 08-03-2007, 07:50 AM

I may be a bit confused. At one point you said that you didn't have AC inside the camper. Do you have 110v at your shore power plugs inside the camper?

billberk · 08-03-2007, 08:12 AM

I plugged a lamp into a shore power plug inside last night and it worked just fine.

flitzwhopper · 08-03-2007, 08:39 AM

excellent! are you able to verify that your DC power supply is receiving shore power? My reasoning is that there is a big fat fuse that is between the battery and DC fuse block and if that one is bad then everything you are describing would make some sense.

lewster · 08-03-2007, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billberk

I'm guessing I touch the leads from the voltage meter to the posts of the red and white wires on the CD panel to check voltage. That sound correct?

Actually, there is no 'big fat fuse' in this type of DC distribution panel. See the 2 green 30 ampers in the middle.......those are the control fuses for the panel. If they are OK, and there is no 12VDC when measured at the big red and white wires.......I fear that the converter is toast!

billberk · 08-03-2007, 01:11 PM

I'm now the proud owner of a volt meter. If I'm using it correctly I am getting an output reading of 3.8......not so good. I touched the negative lead from the volt meter to the white wire terminal and the positive lead to the red wire post to get my reading.

If I understand continuity checking, I should get the same reading with my negative volt meter lead to the white terminal post, and the positive volt meter lead to each fuse on the panel.

Oh well.....the learning curve continues. I think my converter is toast. Didn't even last until the maiden voyage. Hope the next one lasts a little longer.

Thanks for your insight lewster, you've been very helpful.

billberk · 08-03-2007, 05:01 PM

Sorry, thanks for everyones insight!

lewster · 08-03-2007, 10:36 PM

Bill,

You're doing good enough to get your Junior RV Tech wings

. Anyway, continuity is tested on the resistance (ohms) scale. If you put the meter leads across the fuse, you should get a reading, telling you that the fuse is passing current and is functional. If you get no reading, then the fuse is bad with a broken wire inside.

Sometimes, a fuse will 'look' good from the outside and will not stand up to the continuity test. If you just looked at it, you might bypass the real problem and be bewildered for hours.

At 3.8 volts output, your converter is shot and needs to be replaced under warranty! An option is to carry a good 3-stage battery charger with you. Start your trip with your battery fully charged and when you are in a campground, keep the charger connected to the battery and you should have sufficient DC power to operate the trailer, as the current flows both ways and the charger, keeping the battery up will also provide DC to the DC fuse panel and all of the circuits.

billberk · 08-04-2007, 04:58 AM

Thanks Lew,

Does this mean I can have one of those cool shirts with my name over the pocket?

The trick now is to find a repair facility in my area to do the work. Based on my experience yesterday, I may be driving all the way back to the dealership in AR for the repair.