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Old 02-12-2013, 09:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drathaar View Post
(snip)

If the positive lead from the panel chafed through and made chassis ground, it might fry your panel. There is supposed to be a fuse between the panel and controller, but if it shorts above the fuse, it is a moot point.
Actually you can dead short a solar panel positive to negative terminals with no problems at all. The current they generate is self limiting and cannot rise above the normal output of the panel even in a dead short situation. They are not like a battery which a short generates large extra current flow.

I am not saying that the wiring rubbing against a fin on the refrigerator is good, but a short on the wire between the panels and the charge controller will do no harm to the panels.

Been there, done that a whole lot of times. In fact I test the output of solar panels by dead shorting them through an ammeter to see their max current output.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba View Post
Actually you can dead short a solar panel positive to negative terminals with no problems at all. The current they generate is self limiting and cannot rise above the normal output of the panel even in a dead short situation. They are not like a battery which a short generates large extra current flow.

I am not saying that the wiring rubbing against a fin on the refrigerator is good, but a short on the wire between the panels and the charge controller will do no harm to the panels.

Been there, done that a whole lot of times. In fact I test the output of solar panels by dead shorting them through an ammeter to see their max current output.
Thanks, that's good to know. This is my first experience with solar.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:54 PM   #23
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A quick hour at the dealer, and all seems well. I also had them run a bead of sealant at the joint where the bumper compartment meets the body. There was leakage and floor rot reported on earlier FB models, but is purported to be corrected on my year. Better safe than sorry.

It's nice to have the batteries topped at all times.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:31 PM   #24
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Battery testing...

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Originally Posted by wayneskid View Post
Drathaar, if you've run your batts flat, twice, they are now seriously and permanently compromised and will no longer have their rated Ah capacity.
this has happened to me also.
how can i verify if my (almost new) batteries are shot ?
thanks-in-advance.
Rob.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:47 PM   #25
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I just posted my method this morning.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ry-102788.html
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:04 PM   #26
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Jammer's method is a good one, but, I just use a hydrometer which does a fairly good job. They are often sold as "battery tester". It'll tell you how good or bad each cell is. If you go boondocking and find the batteries are running down much faster than normally, that's a clue.

I never ran the OEM batteries flat, but I did run them down pretty far several times (better than freezing) using the furnace, and they lasted 3 years. You never know what happened to them at the dealer—they could have run them down many times. People have reported more than once they bought a "new" trailer and the batteries died several months later.

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Old 03-27-2013, 06:31 PM   #27
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Since I do not have access to external power where we store our AS, I installed a cutoff switch at the batteries to eliminate any parasitic draw. It has made a big difference.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:22 AM   #28
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So the electronic battery cutoff switch in my 2008 Classic 25FB doesn't cut off this parasitic power loss from the LP detector or refrigerator circuits, monitor panel and TV booster? I should still install a manual battery disconnect?

Kelvin
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:50 AM   #29
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After I found that the master switch in our trailer did not cut off all draw on the batteries, i installed quick disconnects on the battery clamps - a quick turn of the knob on each battery completely disconnects the batteries.

I do this if I am storing the trailer with the batteries installed for any period of time - although more often, I take the batteries out and take them to my home.

Also, if we are camped anyplace where I will be hooked up to 110 for a long time - say a couple of weeks or more, I open the battery circuit after a couple of days so that the batteries will not be continually subject to charging voltage. I don't know if that is important as I think the charger in our trailer is "somewhat smart" but it is not one of the newer high tech ones that are recommended. I figure it couldn't hurt.

I use AGM batteries that are supposed have minimal self discharge, and they say will hold charge for as long as a year.

Brian.
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:28 AM   #30
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Is this the type of battery disconnect you are talking about? Wouldn't you only need one since the batteries are in parallel? Do your have both of them installed on the negative posts?

Super Start® 08578 - Battery Terminal | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Thanks,

Kelvin
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:19 AM   #31
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The switch in your link will only work on the battery it's installed on.

The Perco will work on each or both when installed properly.

Bob
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:38 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Is this the type of battery disconnect you are talking about? Wouldn't you only need one since the batteries are in parallel? Do your have both of them installed on the negative posts?

Super Start® 08578 - Battery Terminal | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Thanks,

Kelvin

Hi Kelvin,

Yes, those are the style of disconnects that I installed.

But I do believe that you need two, one for each battery, exactly because they are wired in parallel!

If they were in series, one would do the trick (but you would have 24 volts!)

I don't recall, but I think I put them on the positive posts.


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