30A Receptacle Melted Today

[369goose]

Originally Posted by Tincampers

There was a factory recall on those plugs, did you have yours checked? Something to do with loose screws attaching the wires to the back of the plug.

Yes, when our Airstream was new we had a similar experience. Found out there indeed was a recall and Airstream took very good care of the repairs.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Ditto. The 30-amp SmartPlug was an easy upgrade.

I was going to weigh in on the Smartplug as well, not much more to say mrkrum's review says it all. I put on my on 23FB, and when I switched this spring to a 23D, a Smartlug was one of the first things I installed. The connection inside the outlet is so much better...more surface area, AND locks in place solidly. I went with the chrome version, looks awesome.

I will agree, I wish the manufacturer would decrease the depth a bit. On my 23FB, I had to go inside under a closet and cut a hole in the inner skin to get the unit to fit flush on the outside. On the 23D, it took a little cajoling as well.

[RFP]

Here's another vote for the Smart Plug... excellent product.

[mythbuster88]

We have evidence of the 30A receptacles getting hot.
But is there any evidence of stock Airstream 50A receptacles getting hot?
Just asking, because if not, there is no need to upgrade the 50A receptacle right?

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by mythbuster88

We have evidence of the 30A receptacles getting hot.
But is there any evidence of stock Airstream 50A receptacles getting hot?
Just asking, because if not, there is no need to upgrade the 50A receptacle right?

Hi

Since the 50A is a 230V circuit and the 30A is a 120V circuit .... there are a number of good reasons to stick with what the trailer is set up for. In addition, you wold need to run 50A wiring inside the trailer if you put a 50A outlet on it....

Bob

[Piggy Bank]

Originally Posted by SuzyHomemakr

I think that this is the result of folks plugging in without flipping off the breaker first. I mean turning it off, I imagine that OP did a lot of the former when they found their arc-welded plug!

I've been disagreed with (the horror! ) on the use of a circuit breaker as a switch, some would say that it wears out the breaker ahead of its time. In this case, the campground is looking at having a electrician swap out the receptacle, and our OP having to at least replace the plug, and maybe more. Swapping a breaker is an easy fix by comparison! Besides, the breaker belongs to the campground, we don't have to pay for it.

Suz,
Can you say this again, but more slowly this time?

Are you saying to flip the breaker on the power pole at the campground ON, and then plug in? Or something else?

Thanks

[rmkrum]

The correct way to hook up electrical power:

1) Connect shore power cable to Airstream inlet port. Make sure it feels tight and secure.

2) turn off the breaker on the power pedestal

3) Plug shore power cable into pedestal receptacle. Make sure it feels tight and secure. If not, move to another site.

4) if good, turn pedestal breaker on.

5) wait for EMS/surge protector to decide power is good. If not, move to another site.

6). If EMS is happy, go about your business.

Yeah, it is my considered opinion that an EMS/surge protector is essential, unless you enjoy electrical problems in your Airstream...

[SilverHouseDreams]

Another vote for the SmartPlug, and a hardwired EMS. Zero load is ever present on connecting the power with the EMS, as if tests the feed for a while before activating. I found the standard Furion to the infuriating, as the previous owner had cross threaded it enough that it took longer to latch it on than should ever be necessary. The SmartPlug is just fantastic, I made a 2nd 20-amp cord sourced from a 10 gauge extension cord so that I can use a lighter cord when parked in front of my house while preparing for trips.

[pteck]

The issue here is likely an install or manufacturing failure. Not a failure of the 30amp plug format itself. As how many hundreds of thousands of 30amp plugs are in service and working perfectly fine? There's no inherent issue with a standard plug, and no reason it needs to be made better.

As much as I like the idea and improved ergonomics of a "smartplug", you won't find me changing to a proprietary connector. Which in the wrong situation out on the road, may present its own service issues.

[CruizinDux]

Originally Posted by pteck

The issue here is likely an install or manufacturing failure. Not a failure of the 30amp plug format itself. As how many hundreds of thousands of 30amp plugs are in service and working perfectly fine? There's no inherent issue with a standard plug, and no reason it needs to be made better.

As much as I like the idea and improved ergonomics of a "smartplug", you won't find me changing to a proprietary connector. Which in the wrong situation out on the road, may present its own service issues.

When I said earlier I would take the opportunity to swap it out, it wasn't for a smartplug but this including a new marine rated receptacle. I totally agree with pteck.



http://www.airforums.com/forums/f48/...01729-396.html


bob

[wmb]

Originally Posted by Oldtrapper

If I understand your situation correctly, the problem was between the campgrounds plug in and your power cord.

Sorry, I meant to refer to the inlet receptacle on the trailer itself.

Originally Posted by Oldtrapper

When possible, use a 50A by 30A dogbone and plug into the 50A receptacle, the 50A receptacles seem to have much less wear and tear and even if they do, you only have a dogbone at risk.

The site in CO only had 30A, but you're suggestion is a good one that we'll apply in future when we're at a 50A spot.

Originally Posted by Oldtrapper

Some folks have reported that they have had problems where the plug on their surge protector also got melted. Whether or not there is net benefit with a surge protector is a whole other discussion....

The SurgeGuard seemed to be fine - I didn't see anything on the pins and the status lights reported the power and surge protection to be OK.

However, today I moved the new cord a few feet to give more slack on the surge protector, and lost power in the trailer! After some trial and error it appears that there is an intermittent connection on the "receptacle" side of the SurgeGuard and I had to hold the plug in the receptacle with my hands in order to keep a good connection. I removed the SurgeGuard and plugged the cord directly into the pedestal and had good constant power to the trailer. We headed back to Camping World to get another SurgeGuard…

Could worn connections on the SurgeGuard have caused the trailer inlet to fry?

[CruizinDux]

Wmb just personal preference but can i suggest a progressive unit. Lifetime
guarantee i believe

Bob

[SSquared]

Wmb,

We had a 30A Surgeguard and it failed with a bad connection after a few uses. We replaced it with a Progressive unit, which has worked well.

A bad connection in the Surgeguard can definitely cause damage to what it's directly connected to it. But damage to the other end? I don't know how that would happen.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Piggy Bank

Suz,
Can you say this again, but more slowly this time?

Are you saying to flip the breaker on the power pole at the campground ON, and then plug in? Or something else?

Thanks

Hi

The gotcha with flipping the breaker (and using it as a switch) is that they are not rated to have a lot of cycles operating this way. They are designed to trip on overload and be turned on /off a limited number of times. Using a breaker as a switch will (eventually) wear it out. Sine the breaker in question is on the campground side of things (and I pay them big $$$), I don't see that as a big deal. It *does* explain why you occasionally run into a bum breaker in those posts ...

So yes, *use* the breaker as a switch. Turn it off before you connect. Turn it off before you disconnect.

Bob

[suncoasteng]

The problem was caused either by too much of a load (ie you are pulling too many watts) or poor contacts at the receptacle. Add up all your loads and do the math.

You also need to inspect your male end plug monthly and clean with a wire brush to remove any corrosion. But it is hard to clean the parks female receptacle. For that I grab my one of my wifes old wood nail file, cut it in half, turn off power to the park receptacle at the breaker and file each of the two blade receivers, then spray with electrical contact cleaner.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by suncoasteng

The problem was caused either by too much of a load (ie you are pulling too many watts) or poor contacts at the receptacle. Add up all your loads and do the math.

You also need to inspect your male end plug monthly and clean with a wire brush to remove any corrosion. But it is hard to clean the parks female receptacle. For that I grab my one of my wifes old wood nail file, cut it in half, turn off power to the park receptacle at the breaker and file each of the two blade receivers, then spray with electrical contact cleaner.

Are you trying to tell us the brass prongs aren't supposed to be a greenish-black color?

[gator.bigfoot]

If you have no load on in the trailer then plugging in or out shouldn't be an issue. Simply turn off the AC and the hot water heater and 90% of your loads are gone. Then you won't have to switch off the receptacle. I never switched off the receptacle and haven't had an issue from the that, just a worn out receptacle that causes a loose connection which in turn will melt your plug if you are drawing high amounts of current. If you want AC you are probably not going to care and are going to sacrifice the plug instead. What is the solution? Carry a spare? Complain to the park?

Good luck.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

Are you trying to tell us the brass prongs aren't supposed to be a greenish-black color?

Well, look at it this way--would you want to even consider eating something that was looking greenish-black, and badly overcooked?

Then I figure your Airstream wouldn't want to either...

One of the other tip-offs to "trouble coming" is a well-toasted receptacle on a campground power pedestal...I do wonder if folks are actually looking at the connections they are planning to plug into--a quick glance will let you know if the connection looks viable.

Sadly, many campgrounds do not inspect their connections regularly--they expect their customers to check and complain if something is out-of-sorts. My problem tends to be late arrival--we usually get into our reservation very late at night, and that means the office is closed. We've been lucky so far--in months of camping, I've only had one power connection be useless. We had to stretch our shore power cord to the neighboring empty site to get power. Now I carry a 30-amp extension cord just in case.

I've also eliminated the molded male connector on my power cord. Two reasons: 1) It was very hard to grip and remove on a healthy, tight receptacle. 2) The cordage was slowly separating from the plug--the strain relief between the cable exterior and the molded-on part was basically non-existent. Thus the replacement with a chunky big yellow Camco male plug with a real strain relief clamp, and a nice big handle so I can unplug it easily. The yellow hard plastic is probably also more heat resistant than the soft rubbery stuff that was on there originally, and the prongs and screws inside are a lot sturdier looking. The other thing is a spare is much easier to install should I have a problem.

[Hein]

Here's what I found on our new-to-us Airstream.


And the remedy. (more info on install)


Only issue is the handle doesn't allow the RV outlet box on the barn to fully close.


All the best,
Hein

[engineshow]

Thank god for the 30 amp breaker tripping in my flying cloud 25 rear twin. After checkng the panel which was very hot I found the netrual wires burnt do to loose connections, note Airstream install a converter last year, see the photos below. I made the repairs my self and had to run a new wire from the main bus. the other wire were long enough to cut out the bad part and reroute and tighten all lugs.