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10-31-2006, 08:31 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1994 30' Excella
Currently Looking...
Milwaukee
, Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,935
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My son-in-law just completed the install of the flooring and I did the trim. What I used for trim is oak strips cut down to 1" by 1/2" then sanded to take off sharp corners. Next I nailed it to the sub-floor or blocks which I installed under the cabinets. We have had the trim vibrate loose on our previous floor so this time I used a spray adhesive which will allow me to peel back the trim if need be but should keep it in place if the nails work loose.
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Chaplain Kent
Forest River Forester 2501TS
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10-31-2006, 09:14 AM
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#22
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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I disagree that buckling is a result of lengthwise vs. widthwise installation; it is the result of not being able to float...either not installed with an adequate expansion gap, or being nailed or screwed down to the floor in some spot, or having heavy furniture on top of it that prevents movement.
mine is installed lengthwise, NOT under any furniture (can't, really, with the 70's cabinets, which stand on legs; they'd have to be cut). Its gone through sub-0 NewEngland winters, with no buckling.
I've seen linoleum floors trimmed with aluminum angle in houses; seems that would be very appropriate in the trailer. I used the stock 1/4 rounds, but there are very few places in my trailer where the walls meet the floor in a visible location. (almost everything is behind a cabinet or piece of furniture). In these few spots, I used quarter round and attached it to the wall with 3M double-stick tape. It actually works pretty well.
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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10-31-2006, 12:18 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1978 24' Argosy 24
Woodinville
, Washington
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 682
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I think the concern about cold was more for creature comfort than regard for the flooring. My answer to that is that throw rugs are MUCH easier to maintain than the wall to wall carpet that's in there now. We have cork that I plan to put down sometime this winter. I woul d have guess lengthwise was easier but evidently not so. I haven't decided for sure which way to go. Both look terrific in all the photos I've seen so far.
-Bernie
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10-31-2006, 12:45 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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I love the cork, it worked great in my 280. Very easy on the feet.
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10-31-2006, 03:23 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Colville
, Washington
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
I disagree that buckling is a result of lengthwise vs. widthwise installation; it is the result of not being able to float...either not installed with an adequate expansion gap, or being nailed or screwed down to the floor in some spot, or having heavy furniture on top of it that prevents movement.
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Chuck
1) I definitely have enough expansion room.
2) It's not nailed or screwed anywhere
3) Nothing is on it that prevents movement.
It's definitely frame flex causing it in my '26 Overlander. Here are some pictures of the freshly installed floor http://www.airforums.com/forum...41-post52.html
then after just a couple trips here:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...72-post16.html
It's not that clear in the second shot, but the ends of each piece are where it started buckling. After more trips, it's getting progessively worse. Temperature has not been an issue. I'm going to pull it all up and re-install widthwise.
Soldiermedic
Check out these threads for more advice and others experiences with laminate:
Pergo, lengthwise vs. widthwise
Requesting Advice on Laminate Flooring
__________________
AIR 12256
Currently Looking
2001 Dodge Ram 1500
2001 Honda XR650R
Currently Looking...for an Avion Truck Camper (or a Classic Argosy MoHo)
"In regione caecorum rex est luscus." GP
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10-31-2006, 03:48 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Florissant
, USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
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Thanks for the thread links G.P. I will probably go width wise. For some reason it seems easier.
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10-31-2006, 04:50 PM
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#27
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Silver Mist
Currently Looking...
Riverhead
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin
then after just a couple trips here:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...72-post16.html
It's not that clear in the second shot, but the ends of each piece are where it started buckling. After more trips, it's getting progessively worse. Temperature has not been an issue. I'm going to pull it all up and re-install widthwise.
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In that picture the planks look very wide.
How many inches in width are they?
THe ones I see look much narrower.
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Bob
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10-31-2006, 06:03 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Florissant
, USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
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Which brings up another excellent part to this adventure. Go with the wide planks, or with the very narrow planks? Is there a difference in them other than it taking longer with the narrow planks?
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10-31-2006, 06:20 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
Mark,
Do you mean that after the first time out all of the flooring will shift during transit? Going side to side looks easier to me. I would like to put a patch of vinyl right at the door, and place vinyl in the bathroom.
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The floor must float. In a trailer or motorhome, it will float to the front as the deceleration g forces are much stronger than the acceleration g forces. One excellent idea for controlling this was mentioned above somewhere: a bead of caulk along the leading edges.
Side to side would defintitely be easier, as would narrow vs. wide planks. The problem is all the cabinet stuff you must cut around. For most pieces laid side to side this merely means you trim off the end to fit. If laid lengthwise it can mean some very intricate measuring and cutting.
Although laid lengthwise in my coach, I have had no problem with buckling from frame flex. I could see this happening, however.
Mark
__________________
'85 Sovereign, 25'
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10-31-2006, 09:55 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Colville
, Washington
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
In that picture the planks look very wide.
How many inches in width are they?
THe ones I see look much narrower.
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I used a standard 8" plank.
__________________
AIR 12256
Currently Looking
2001 Dodge Ram 1500
2001 Honda XR650R
Currently Looking...for an Avion Truck Camper (or a Classic Argosy MoHo)
"In regione caecorum rex est luscus." GP
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11-01-2006, 07:00 AM
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#31
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Rivet Master
Hampton
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,126
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Has anyone ad experience putting Pergo or like flooring in an A/S with a slideout? We are considering it, but concerned with the way the slide works - and being able to get under it, both to remove the carpeting and installing the new floor.
__________________
Brad (The Slowsky's)
2019 Airstream Classic 30RBT, 2021 Ford F350 King Ranch 4X4 w/6.7L Diesel, Hensley, ACI #1313
travelwiththeslowskys.com
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11-01-2006, 10:09 AM
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#32
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin
Chuck
1) I definitely have enough expansion room.
2) It's not nailed or screwed anywhere
3) Nothing is on it that prevents movement.
It's definitely frame flex causing it in my '26 Overlander....
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well, obviously, you need to have your running gear balanced.
seriously...maybe you do. or a new axle?
had to read the whole thread you referenced before I understood what was happening. Ok, yeah, I can see that now, if you have one loooong length of planks going all the way to the back. I know my trailer really moves around back there. any "stuff" in the bathroom (rear bath) gets tossed around something fierce. BUT, the pergo doesn't extend all the way into the bathroom. I stopped it at the door...this is only a couple of inches aft of the wheel wells...maybe a couple of feet aft of the rear axle. I doubt there's nearly as much flexing in the front end of the trailer. There's probably about a 10' run of planks, all told.
oh, and my axles are probably toast, too.
I'm guessing on newer trailers, there's less flexing, what with their heavier framework and all. That, and a set of springy axles probably makes a huge difference.
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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11-01-2006, 11:54 AM
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#33
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Florissant
, USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
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Well Chuck,
My trailer is a 68, and it only have the single axle. I don't plan on placent the pergo into the rear bath, so maybe that will help with the issue as well.
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11-01-2006, 12:54 PM
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#34
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Silver Mist
Currently Looking...
Riverhead
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin
I used a standard 8" plank.
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I know the stuff I see is aboout 4" wide???
I can't see going cross ways it just doesn't look correct, there must be something unique in you install that it failed.
Anyway I'm a couple of weeks away from finishing the cabinets, then the floor will go in lenghtwise, I'll see what happens
__________________
Bob
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11-01-2006, 02:02 PM
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#35
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Colville
, Washington
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
well, obviously, you need to have your running gear balanced.
seriously...maybe you do. or a new axle?
... if you have one loooong length of planks going all the way to the back.
...oh, and my axles are probably toast, too.
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maybe probably new axle(s) too. They have some life left in them, but as much as the trailer gets "beat up" with each trip, I'm leaning towards believing that axle replacements will be in my future. There's just not enough ride absorption in my ride
Lengthwise would be fine if you install "breaks" in the run. i.e. break it up at each "room" to allow for flex. (I think Zep did that if I remember correctly) I installed mine in one long run. The flooring starts at the front gaucho and runs all the way into the bathroom at the rear. It started popping towards the front middle of the trailer, in the kitchen area, and then has continued from there towards the back.
__________________
AIR 12256
Currently Looking
2001 Dodge Ram 1500
2001 Honda XR650R
Currently Looking...for an Avion Truck Camper (or a Classic Argosy MoHo)
"In regione caecorum rex est luscus." GP
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11-03-2006, 08:57 PM
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#36
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Florissant
, USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
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Ok, Maybe it won't work!
Just got back from my 8 hour ordeal to get my trailer to my home. I will say that it towed very nicely. The front dinette converts to a bed, and the couch end folds out like an expansion. This only sits a few millimeters off the floor. THe new laminate flooring would make it so that the couch would not expand. People have said not to remove the dinette and lay floor under it so that the floor can float. I will post a pic tomorrow once I have light outside, but any ideas anyone?
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11-04-2006, 12:04 AM
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#37
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,699
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If I understand the question, shim or space the couch up the same thickness as your flooring.
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11-04-2006, 11:35 AM
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#38
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Florissant
, USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
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New Pictures to show what I mean
Ok....the old vinyl tiles (which are now history ) went under everything. The cabinets, couches, dinette, etc. If I want to add pergo flooring it seems like I will have to remove the couches and dinette, and place the floor underneath them. I could just cut the side panel of the expansion device, and the couch, but I don't want to have to do that.
So....would you go through the trouble of removing the dinette, couches, and all the cabinets as well, or just the couch and dinette? I hope the floor doesn't buckle from not having the room to "Float".
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11-04-2006, 01:30 PM
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#39
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
Ok....the old vinyl tiles (which are now history ) went under everything. The cabinets, couches, dinette, etc. If I want to add pergo flooring it seems like I will have to remove the couches and dinette, and place the floor underneath them. I could just cut the side panel of the expansion device, and the couch, but I don't want to have to do that.
So....would you go through the trouble of removing the dinette, couches, and all the cabinets as well, or just the couch and dinette? I hope the floor doesn't buckle from not having the room to "Float".
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The photos help! In the photo on the left, it looks like there might be enough clearance under the front finished panel for the laminate. Where you have a problem is in the hinged plywood pieces. Couldn't you just trim those off a bit on the bottom, or raised the attachment point, then cut the laminate around the seat bases, leaving the seat bases attached where they are? Corner round or some other kind of trim would hide your spacing for the "floating".
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11-04-2006, 04:39 PM
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#40
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Florissant
, USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
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Due to rot found when I removed the tiles, the twin beds, and goucho are being taken out to repair the flooring. I will probably place the flooring down once I finish with waterproofing, and fixing the subfloor.
I also plan on using 1/2 inch REX to replace all of the outdated plumbing (and a likely source of the rot).
Steve
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