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Old 10-31-2006, 08:31 AM   #21
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My son-in-law just completed the install of the flooring and I did the trim. What I used for trim is oak strips cut down to 1" by 1/2" then sanded to take off sharp corners. Next I nailed it to the sub-floor or blocks which I installed under the cabinets. We have had the trim vibrate loose on our previous floor so this time I used a spray adhesive which will allow me to peel back the trim if need be but should keep it in place if the nails work loose.
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:14 AM   #22
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I disagree that buckling is a result of lengthwise vs. widthwise installation; it is the result of not being able to float...either not installed with an adequate expansion gap, or being nailed or screwed down to the floor in some spot, or having heavy furniture on top of it that prevents movement.

mine is installed lengthwise, NOT under any furniture (can't, really, with the 70's cabinets, which stand on legs; they'd have to be cut). Its gone through sub-0 NewEngland winters, with no buckling.

I've seen linoleum floors trimmed with aluminum angle in houses; seems that would be very appropriate in the trailer. I used the stock 1/4 rounds, but there are very few places in my trailer where the walls meet the floor in a visible location. (almost everything is behind a cabinet or piece of furniture). In these few spots, I used quarter round and attached it to the wall with 3M double-stick tape. It actually works pretty well.
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Old 10-31-2006, 12:18 PM   #23
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I think the concern about cold was more for creature comfort than regard for the flooring. My answer to that is that throw rugs are MUCH easier to maintain than the wall to wall carpet that's in there now. We have cork that I plan to put down sometime this winter. I woul d have guess lengthwise was easier but evidently not so. I haven't decided for sure which way to go. Both look terrific in all the photos I've seen so far.

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Old 10-31-2006, 12:45 PM   #24
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I love the cork, it worked great in my 280. Very easy on the feet.
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:23 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
I disagree that buckling is a result of lengthwise vs. widthwise installation; it is the result of not being able to float...either not installed with an adequate expansion gap, or being nailed or screwed down to the floor in some spot, or having heavy furniture on top of it that prevents movement.
Chuck

1) I definitely have enough expansion room.
2) It's not nailed or screwed anywhere
3) Nothing is on it that prevents movement.

It's definitely frame flex causing it in my '26 Overlander. Here are some pictures of the freshly installed floor http://www.airforums.com/forum...41-post52.html

then after just a couple trips here:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...72-post16.html

It's not that clear in the second shot, but the ends of each piece are where it started buckling. After more trips, it's getting progessively worse. Temperature has not been an issue. I'm going to pull it all up and re-install widthwise.

Soldiermedic

Check out these threads for more advice and others experiences with laminate:

Pergo, lengthwise vs. widthwise

Requesting Advice on Laminate Flooring
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:48 PM   #26
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Thanks for the thread links G.P. I will probably go width wise. For some reason it seems easier.
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin


then after just a couple trips here:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...72-post16.html

It's not that clear in the second shot, but the ends of each piece are where it started buckling. After more trips, it's getting progessively worse. Temperature has not been an issue. I'm going to pull it all up and re-install widthwise.
In that picture the planks look very wide.

How many inches in width are they?

THe ones I see look much narrower.
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Old 10-31-2006, 06:03 PM   #28
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Which brings up another excellent part to this adventure. Go with the wide planks, or with the very narrow planks? Is there a difference in them other than it taking longer with the narrow planks?
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Old 10-31-2006, 06:20 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by soldiermedic
Mark,

Do you mean that after the first time out all of the flooring will shift during transit? Going side to side looks easier to me. I would like to put a patch of vinyl right at the door, and place vinyl in the bathroom.
The floor must float. In a trailer or motorhome, it will float to the front as the deceleration g forces are much stronger than the acceleration g forces. One excellent idea for controlling this was mentioned above somewhere: a bead of caulk along the leading edges.

Side to side would defintitely be easier, as would narrow vs. wide planks. The problem is all the cabinet stuff you must cut around. For most pieces laid side to side this merely means you trim off the end to fit. If laid lengthwise it can mean some very intricate measuring and cutting.

Although laid lengthwise in my coach, I have had no problem with buckling from frame flex. I could see this happening, however.

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Old 10-31-2006, 09:55 PM   #30
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In that picture the planks look very wide.

How many inches in width are they?

THe ones I see look much narrower.
I used a standard 8" plank.
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:00 AM   #31
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Has anyone ad experience putting Pergo or like flooring in an A/S with a slideout? We are considering it, but concerned with the way the slide works - and being able to get under it, both to remove the carpeting and installing the new floor.
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Old 11-01-2006, 10:09 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin
Chuck

1) I definitely have enough expansion room.
2) It's not nailed or screwed anywhere
3) Nothing is on it that prevents movement.

It's definitely frame flex causing it in my '26 Overlander....
well, obviously, you need to have your running gear balanced.

seriously...maybe you do. or a new axle?

had to read the whole thread you referenced before I understood what was happening. Ok, yeah, I can see that now, if you have one loooong length of planks going all the way to the back. I know my trailer really moves around back there. any "stuff" in the bathroom (rear bath) gets tossed around something fierce. BUT, the pergo doesn't extend all the way into the bathroom. I stopped it at the door...this is only a couple of inches aft of the wheel wells...maybe a couple of feet aft of the rear axle. I doubt there's nearly as much flexing in the front end of the trailer. There's probably about a 10' run of planks, all told.

oh, and my axles are probably toast, too.

I'm guessing on newer trailers, there's less flexing, what with their heavier framework and all. That, and a set of springy axles probably makes a huge difference.
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Old 11-01-2006, 11:54 AM   #33
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Well Chuck,

My trailer is a 68, and it only have the single axle. I don't plan on placent the pergo into the rear bath, so maybe that will help with the issue as well.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:54 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin
I used a standard 8" plank.
I know the stuff I see is aboout 4" wide???

I can't see going cross ways it just doesn't look correct, there must be something unique in you install that it failed.

Anyway I'm a couple of weeks away from finishing the cabinets, then the floor will go in lenghtwise, I'll see what happens
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
well, obviously, you need to have your running gear balanced.

seriously...maybe you do. or a new axle?
... if you have one loooong length of planks going all the way to the back.
...oh, and my axles are probably toast, too.
maybe probably new axle(s) too. They have some life left in them, but as much as the trailer gets "beat up" with each trip, I'm leaning towards believing that axle replacements will be in my future. There's just not enough ride absorption in my ride

Lengthwise would be fine if you install "breaks" in the run. i.e. break it up at each "room" to allow for flex. (I think Zep did that if I remember correctly) I installed mine in one long run. The flooring starts at the front gaucho and runs all the way into the bathroom at the rear. It started popping towards the front middle of the trailer, in the kitchen area, and then has continued from there towards the back.
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:57 PM   #36
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Ok, Maybe it won't work!

Just got back from my 8 hour ordeal to get my trailer to my home. I will say that it towed very nicely. The front dinette converts to a bed, and the couch end folds out like an expansion. This only sits a few millimeters off the floor. THe new laminate flooring would make it so that the couch would not expand. People have said not to remove the dinette and lay floor under it so that the floor can float. I will post a pic tomorrow once I have light outside, but any ideas anyone?
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Old 11-04-2006, 12:04 AM   #37
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If I understand the question, shim or space the couch up the same thickness as your flooring.
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:35 AM   #38
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New Pictures to show what I mean

Ok....the old vinyl tiles (which are now history) went under everything. The cabinets, couches, dinette, etc. If I want to add pergo flooring it seems like I will have to remove the couches and dinette, and place the floor underneath them. I could just cut the side panel of the expansion device, and the couch, but I don't want to have to do that.

So....would you go through the trouble of removing the dinette, couches, and all the cabinets as well, or just the couch and dinette? I hope the floor doesn't buckle from not having the room to "Float".
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Old 11-04-2006, 01:30 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
Ok....the old vinyl tiles (which are now history) went under everything. The cabinets, couches, dinette, etc. If I want to add pergo flooring it seems like I will have to remove the couches and dinette, and place the floor underneath them. I could just cut the side panel of the expansion device, and the couch, but I don't want to have to do that.

So....would you go through the trouble of removing the dinette, couches, and all the cabinets as well, or just the couch and dinette? I hope the floor doesn't buckle from not having the room to "Float".
The photos help! In the photo on the left, it looks like there might be enough clearance under the front finished panel for the laminate. Where you have a problem is in the hinged plywood pieces. Couldn't you just trim those off a bit on the bottom, or raised the attachment point, then cut the laminate around the seat bases, leaving the seat bases attached where they are? Corner round or some other kind of trim would hide your spacing for the "floating".
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:39 PM   #40
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Due to rot found when I removed the tiles, the twin beds, and goucho are being taken out to repair the flooring. I will probably place the flooring down once I finish with waterproofing, and fixing the subfloor.

I also plan on using 1/2 inch REX to replace all of the outdated plumbing (and a likely source of the rot).

Steve
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