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04-01-2005, 10:37 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 105
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Elevator bolts?????????????
I am getting ready to buy my elevator bolts and have a few questions. What size were the originals? Can they be shorter since I don't have to bend them over? Which finish of bolt? Stainless? Galvanized? Zinc? Also, are most of you just using the original holes between where the plywood butts together? Or is it better to drill new holes in the frame and through the edges of each sheet? I searched the threads and couldn't find any specific answers to these questions. Thanks in advance!
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04-02-2005, 12:19 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 58BUBBLE
I am getting ready to buy my elevator bolts and have a few questions. What size were the originals? Can they be shorter since I don't have to bend them over? Which finish of bolt? Stainless? Galvanized? Zinc? Also, are most of you just using the original holes between where the plywood butts together? Or is it better to drill new holes in the frame and through the edges of each sheet? I searched the threads and couldn't find any specific answers to these questions. Thanks in advance!
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I used galvenized elevator bolts mostly because that was what I could find locally. Are you finding a source of stainless ones? It couldn't hurt to use stainless but I for one don't think it is necessary. All my originals seemed to be 1/4" diameter so that is what I went with. My old ones were sufficiently rusted that I could not tell if they had originally be galvenized or not but I am pretty sure they were not stainless steel. I also used lock nuts of the type with the nylon insert. I think your bolts can be shorter because they are not going to be bent over. Or you could bend them like the originals I suppose. For what it is worth I did not find a single missing nut because of the technique of bending the bolts. It did work. I used a combination of elevator bolts and self-drilling self-tapping screws for my installation. I did drill new holes mostly because I was working from above and it would be pretty hard to align with the old ones.
I hope this helps,
Malcolm
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04-02-2005, 07:22 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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I used 'painted' elevator bolts, 1/4" x 1 1/4". I used regular lock washers and nuts. I drilled new holes for the same reason Malcolm did.
The original bolts were non-galvanized, and mine had very slight surface rust. That may be because the trailer was never near the ocean.
If you can find stainless (I couldn't) that would be great. Galvanized would be good. If you can't get galvanized, you can paint them, like I did.
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04-02-2005, 07:46 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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I have the same bolts as Don - have not installed them yet, but plan to use the old holes drilling up from the bottom, then have someone push them in while I put a lockwasher and nut on them - I will also use nylocks just to make sure, not planning to bend them. I plan to paint mine also.
Ken
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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06-09-2005, 01:12 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
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, ...
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 512
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Does anyone have an online source for the galvanized elevator bolts?
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06-09-2005, 01:25 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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I got mine at Barnhill Bolt - don't know if they have galvanized though
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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06-09-2005, 02:04 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
...
, ...
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 512
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The previous owner of my gem had installed a black water tank just over a year ago and the zinc coated bolts he used are ALREADY RUSTING! He didn't get the belly pan re-installed, but the trailer has lived in an area that gets less than 11.5 inches of rain a year!!
Zinc is, in my opinion, about the worst water resistant bolt coating that can be had. I’m going to use galvanized bolts, if I can find them.
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06-09-2005, 02:27 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
If you can find stainless (I couldn't) that would be great.
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McMaster-Carr has them. Search for "stainless elevator bolt".
Bob
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06-09-2005, 02:39 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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Will zink coated bolts rust faster than plain old steel bolts?
Ken J
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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06-09-2005, 03:05 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
LOST
, Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
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Mcmaster, one of my favorite places.
Zinc coating will protect the steel, so they will not rust as fast.
John
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06-09-2005, 03:27 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiffy Gem
[color=black]The previous owner of my gem had installed a black water tank just over a year ago and the zinc coated bolts he used are ALREADY RUSTING!
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Spiffy,
You have a pretty severe problem if the zinc coated bolts are already rusting. The zinc is a sacrificial metal, meant to protect the steel underneath. As long as there is some zinc left, it will 'suck up' stray electrons and protect the steel.
As soon as all the zinc is gone, the stray current will start to work on the steel, then you will have a major problem.
It's possible the previous owner used something in the attaching hardware, straps, or framing that is causing premature corrosion.
Get it looked at before you put the belly back on.
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06-09-2005, 03:49 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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Does it help to paint the zinc coated bolts where they are exposed?
Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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06-09-2005, 04:00 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiffy Gem
Does anyone have an online source for the galvanized elevator bolts?
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Off hand, although I wish you luck, I would be surprised if anyone offered galvanized bolts as their original design use did not include the way Airstreamers use them.
Although the best thing, obviously, would be to locate them, you may want to consider using the "commonly available" steel ones (usually black in color), and painting them with Rustoleum's cold galvanizing paint.
Unless, that is, your pockets are deep enough to buy the stainless steel offering. {Imagine a "I am not worthy" icon here. }
Tom
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06-09-2005, 04:18 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
...and painting them with Rustoleum's cold galvanizing paint...
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After installation
(editing clock got me )
Tom
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06-09-2005, 04:52 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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I think it should be mentioned that Airstream did not use elevator bolts origionally. They were round head carrage type bolts. I think the elevator bolts are much better though.......
Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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06-09-2005, 05:33 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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I found SS online. However they did not have the little teeth and tended to turn when tightened.
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06-09-2005, 06:23 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
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, ...
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 512
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One-year-old rusty zinc covered bolts do indicate a problem, which is why I'm refinishing the frame (with sandblast, primer, and paint) and replacing the floor.
Ocean vessels use replaceable zinc plates in the cooling system to minimize the corrosion to the steel; the zinc attracts the ionization, caused by friction, salt water, and the transfer of heat.
So, I don't understand why anyone would want to make the bolts that hold the flooring, frame, and shell together the target of corrosion by using zinc coated bolts. . . I would rather use non-zinc covered bolts and add a replaceable zinc plate that would take the corrosion. Who wants to tear their Airstream apart more frequently than necessary?
Airstream may not have used galvanized bolts; and evidence indicates they didn't use zinc coated ones either!
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06-09-2005, 06:23 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 521
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Try Inventory Sales Company for any type fastener... screws, bolts, nuts, rivets, etc.
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06-09-2005, 06:40 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
...
, ...
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 512
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I am told by the local Airstream repair shop not to use Stainless Steel. They say it seizes up at some point and won't let you tighten or loosen the bolt/nut.
They use a bolt pictured here (if I attached the picture correctly). They gave me their last one and told me where they purchased it. So, I made a visit to the company, who told me they had never seen such a bolt. The bolt looks to be coated with aluminum, and is of a steel core (magnets like it). Does anyone know where these can be had?
(See my profile pics to see the bolt.)
Calvin
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06-10-2005, 12:02 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1968 28' Ambassador
Butte
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,201
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Elevator Bolts
Hi Calvin, I used this type of elevator bolt assembly. It can be had at any decent hardware store. Mine are plated I think. If you have any questions by all means ask away.
Chris
Elevator Bolt assy
__________________
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Project 2k5
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