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05-15-2010, 09:14 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Boise
, Idaho
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 12
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81 Motorhome storage compartment leaks
Has anyone had success stopping water from leaking into the road side storage compartments , I have installed a driprail above the opening seam and filled the holes left by the factory on the ends and replaced the seals, all in vain it appears , I am tempted to cut the bottoms loose give them a good rearward slope with drain holes so at least the water wont stand in the compartments
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05-15-2010, 02:59 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Airstream310
Dunsmuir
, California
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,336
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Can you post a picture? I managed to seal mine but I'm not sure if they are like yours.
__________________
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion - The Dalai Lama
1984 310 Limited Motorhome
Courtesy Parking (W/S/E/Wi-Fi) on I-5 in Northern California, 70 miles from Oregon border
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05-15-2010, 05:53 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Ajo
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,649
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Where is it leaking, on the pull-out? You could have a leak in the copper lines up above. Mine leaked from a crack around the upper openings. Pic?
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05-15-2010, 10:20 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch
, California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,695
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And mine was a split pipe behind the shower....
My floorsafe was full of water too!
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05-16-2010, 12:42 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,943
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My 280 doesn't have pull outs or copper lines above. The doors are aluminum sheets formed into a curve to match the lower panel. No reinforcement or edge trearment of any kind. A simple "L" shaped rubber gasket and that's it. And yes they are not water tite.
I've thought of maybe an inner lip around the edge of the compartment and then drill some drain holes at the bottom of the door for the water to run out before entering the compartment.
Without a perfect fit and a reinforced edge or more clamps around the door edge I don't think a rubber gasket is going to do much.
Cheers, Dan
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05-16-2010, 08:18 AM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
1981 28' Airstream 280
Boise
, Idaho
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 12
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Sounds like Dan has been down this road , think I will just sand blast them and repaint and set them up for quick draining rather than picking a battle I can,t win
Thank's Dean
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05-16-2010, 09:01 AM
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#7
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The Hawk's Lair
1985 34.5' Airstream 345
BACK WOODS
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 922
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I have battled with mine as well. I think most of my moisture is condensation and just can't be helped. Drain holes are probably a good idea.
__________________
AKA THE GUNNER
There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"
AIRSTREAM 345 TURBO-DIESEL
VFW, LEGION, NRA
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05-16-2010, 09:56 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Ajo
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,649
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Would someone post a pic? I'm confused (normal for me).
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05-16-2010, 10:00 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean Rawson
Sounds like Dan has been down this road , think I will just sand blast them and repaint and set them up for quick draining rather than picking a battle I can,t win
Thank's Dean
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It always amazes me how the lads at Airstream put so much effort into the design of some things and so little into others. I think the storage doors were designed too late on a Friday afternoon.
Cheers, Dan
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06-09-2010, 08:09 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1991 35' Airstream 350
Columbia
, Tennessee
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 928
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Fixed my leak on my right pull out!
__________________
Chris & Brenda....................cMADMAXman
AIR Member 12654
1991 350LE "Zephyr"
1982 310 MoHo (Sold! New home, NYC.)
Many Years ago, 1972 Argosy 24' trailer
Toad, 2001 Chevy Tracker 4x4
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06-11-2010, 11:04 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,943
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You guys with the 310's ans 345's have those fancy pull outs. Us guys with 280's aren't so lucky. We just have a sheet aluminum door with a hinge on the bottom. The door swings down to expose a wet little hole in the bottom edge of the coach.
Nice repair/modification madmaxman.
Cheers, Dan
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06-12-2010, 06:55 AM
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#12
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4 Rivet Member
1989 25' Excella
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Hobe Sound
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 294
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Thumbs up!
Mine don't leak yet, but nice to know there is a solution when they do. Fantastic job!!!!
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06-14-2010, 02:49 PM
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#13
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Kmpro
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Lubbock
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 301
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81 Motorhome storage compartment leaks
I thought I had sealed mine on both sides, but the last big rainstorm we went through the Driver's side got wet again. Not to worry though, I will get after sealing it again. I had sprayed it with spray undercoat on the outside as well as all those listed previously in this thread. Still shipped water though.
Mike
__________________
A Man has got know his limitations-Dirty Harry
That's Some Bad Hat Harry-Jaws 1978
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06-19-2010, 07:43 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1991 35' Airstream 350
Columbia
, Tennessee
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 928
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Here is another shot of the completed project. Just had a 2 to 3 inch down pour and the box is nice and dry . Have not drove in a rain storm yet, but think that it should stay dry. Will keep my fingers crossed!
__________________
Chris & Brenda....................cMADMAXman
AIR Member 12654
1991 350LE "Zephyr"
1982 310 MoHo (Sold! New home, NYC.)
Many Years ago, 1972 Argosy 24' trailer
Toad, 2001 Chevy Tracker 4x4
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11-27-2010, 04:05 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch
, California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,695
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Awsome Job Chris!
Did that stop the leaks, or any other mods?
I have leaks in all mine.
For starters i need to replace the seals between the lid and body,, but did you find it was the joints that were the leak culprets?
If so, and welding it did the trick, I will go for that too!
On mine the lids hinge from the back edge, but I think the basic principle is the same.
I was thinking about doing Herculiner for the inside ansd underside... Do you think that will work?
Also, I have not looked close, but how do you get the drawers off/out of the M/H?
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11-28-2010, 09:04 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1991 35' Airstream 350
Columbia
, Tennessee
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 928
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Welding drawers
Thanks Keyair.
The original plastic, can I say just worked OK. After the years and they started to crack and break, water was allowed to leak into the top through all the joints not fully welded up. Welding up the joints worked best for me. I have a small MIG welder that keeps the heat to a minimum. Stitch welding helps as well, but there is still some warping of the metal. The full weld of the lip is the most important part of this.
I also used Polyurethane caulk on the inside joints and the top joint where the top and sided meet the front cover.
I think the Herculiner would be a great idea. Wish I would have thought about that. I will use that on the left side big drawer when I do that.
Seal all screws when you but the hing back on.
You have to unbolt the slides from the drawer, then if you want to take them off completely, you can clean them up from years of road junk, and re-lube them.
Good luck dude! Let us know how it goes.
__________________
Chris & Brenda....................cMADMAXman
AIR Member 12654
1991 350LE "Zephyr"
1982 310 MoHo (Sold! New home, NYC.)
Many Years ago, 1972 Argosy 24' trailer
Toad, 2001 Chevy Tracker 4x4
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11-28-2010, 10:00 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch
, California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,695
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Will do.
I have two levels going on... stuff I can only do at or on the Airstream in storage, and stuff I can pull off and do at home... this is the latter, and I like these, cos I can work on them for 10 mins or 2 hours, whatever I have time for.
I did the bed on my old Chevy Pickup about 2 years ago with the Herculiner kit, and was pretty impressed with how easy it was.
Ready:
Coat 1:
C
I still think it was a bit "thin" and would have liked to add another coat, but it has really stood up to a lot of abuse, and has only broken thru when I dragged/pushed my cherry picker in and out, and even then only slightly.
It should handle this "light duty" job with ease, and the textured finish with help stuff grip and not slide too much.
I recently picked up a barely used 110V Snap-On 140A Mig welder, and I also have the Mig Spool Gun for Mig welding Aluminum, and the DC Tig for steel(DC can't do Aluminum) attachment as well. To buy this setup new would have been $5k plus, and I got it for a song! It is HUGE, because it has a big fan and heat sinks(100% duty cycle).
Sounds like a great "Practice Project" for the Mig and Tig!
Here she is:
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11-29-2010, 12:07 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1991 35' Airstream 350
Columbia
, Tennessee
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 928
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Sweet
Sounds like a great project to get some practice on the new welder. I have the small 110 Lincoln that is a 110v and have a 175 Lincoln inverter AC, DC and reverse DC that runs on 220v. It has the air cooled torch w/peddle control. Would like to have the liquid cooled line, but I don't push it that high. It's smooooth to weld with! I use straight Argon gas so swapping from Aluminum to Steel is no problem.
Keep us posted on your progress.
__________________
Chris & Brenda....................cMADMAXman
AIR Member 12654
1991 350LE "Zephyr"
1982 310 MoHo (Sold! New home, NYC.)
Many Years ago, 1972 Argosy 24' trailer
Toad, 2001 Chevy Tracker 4x4
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11-29-2010, 12:16 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Ajo
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,649
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My slides on the roadside compartment pull-out have lost the bearings, has anyone replaced the slides, is it a bearcat?
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11-29-2010, 10:45 PM
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#20
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65th Anniversary CLIPPER
1996 36' Clipper Bus
Tub City
, British Columbia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,309
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Basement leak
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean Rawson
Has anyone had success stopping water from leaking into the road side storage compartments , I have installed a driprail above the opening seam and filled the holes left by the factory on the ends and replaced the seals, all in vain it appears , I am tempted to cut the bottoms loose give them a good rearward slope with drain holes so at least the water wont stand in the compartments
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Not sure what you guys have for hinges but I found silicone spray solved my problem on Clipper.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f313...eak-70444.html
Dave
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