My really bad AC install!

[ViewRVs]

Before I get my Argosy, "George", painted, I want to address the roof. I have a few leaks. the main culprit is the Duo Therm AC unit. This unit originally had the Armstrong AC, then a Coleman AC, and recently a Duo Therm unit.

The unit sits between the spans and compresses the roof panels. The compression causes a big gap which lets in tons of water! The other issue is that the unit is flat and my roof is curved. You can also notice a really bad patch job near the front of the unit.

My other plans before painting call for a new Fan-Tastic fan and vent cover and a Jack TV antenna.

1) Is there a drip pan for Duo Therm Brick Air units to handle the rounded roof?

2) Should I build up the roof support to eliminate the roof compression? Right now I cut up some 2x4 pieces to minimize the compression.

[shermantic]

When I added my Carrier HC to my 26' Argosy TT I layered styrofoam and then used a cardboard template to cut the styrofoam to the exact curve then installed them all around. Tighted up the bolts and I have never had any more leaks.

[ViewRVs]

First, I did not do the install. This is from a PO.

That is a great idea. I don't want to buy a whole other unit but I want it to be installed correctly.

[Splitrock]

When you reinstall the unit have a new gasket there. Just support the cutout between the inside and outside skins. I used untreated wood. I ran the lateral fir strips from rib to rib. The two cross pieces I cut with a slight curve to match the trailer profile. Mine hasn't leaked in two years.

I didn't use a pan. I'll do that next time . . . maybe.

[ViewRVs]

I did get the AC unit off today. I had to stop when the temperature hit 96 and you could fry an egg up there!

I can clearly see the outline of both the Armstrong and Coleman units. It appears there are screw holes around the perimeter of the original Armstrong unit that are the source of my leaks! My hunch is that the footprint of the Coleman unit covered the holes and minimized any leaks (that and the unit was in Montana with not as much rain!).

After I clean all of the old sealant and silicone, should I fill the holes with Olympic Rivets?

[ViewRVs]

Here are three more pictures of the roof. My next step is to cut the 2x4 boards for a frame to match the slope of the roof so the panels do not get pinched in when I tighten it down.

[vswingfield]

beckybillrae just put photos up of her daughter's install of an AC to replace the original Armstrong. Nice set of photos, including bracing the roof. See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ml#post1171096

It sounds like you are doing it right this time.

[Wazbro]

Yes filling the holes with Olympic Rivets is a really good idea.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by 1985air345

.......

After I clean all of the old sealant and silicone, should I fill the holes with Olympic Rivets?

Don't forget the vulkem and HI Fred

[ViewRVs]

Originally Posted by PeterH-79MH

Don't forget the vulkem and HI Fred

Hey Peter! It looks like you've traded for a larger unit and I downsized since we last met!

Vulkem
I know where to order the Vulkem 5xx. I'll have to re-read the threads about 536 or 526. Will the real Vulkem please stand up! I assume you place some in/around the hole and then insert the rivet?

Olympic Rivets
I've seen how to do the Olympic rivets but I've never done them. The tool seems to be $200 dollars. Is there a less expensive better alternative? Any particular size I should order?

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by 1985air345

Hey Peter! It looks like you've traded for a larger unit and I downsized since we last met!

Vulkem
I know where to order the Vulkem 5xx. I'll have to re-read the threads about 536 or 526. Will the real Vulkem please stand up! I assume you place some in/around the hole and then insert the rivet?

Olympic Rivets
I've seen how to do the Olympic rivets but I've never done them. The tool seems to be $200 dollars. Is there a less expensive better alternative? Any particular size I should order?

Yes, Fred, I sold the ole trusted 79, so i could get something smaller and easier to work on . But I have been enjoying working on this 87 345, the previous owner took care of it mechanically, just needed the new generator installed and lots of exterior cosmetics.

I forgot which vulkem, but would not matter for olympic rivets anyways. Just put a little in the hole only, the rivet will take care of the rest.
Good news, you do not need the expensive rivet shaver, since they will be covered or out of sight. After you set the rivet, clip the stem as close to the rivet head as possible and then use a simple metal file to make it flush with the head. done!

[ViewRVs]

3/16" or 1/4" rivets? What is the drill bit size for each one?

I have the go-ahead from the wife to order the tool to smooth them down. I want to do this correctly since I am taking "George" in for painting next month!

I am going to clean off the surface in the morning before it gets too hot outside.

[garry]

I used a Dremal tool to shave down the stems of the Olympic rivets and they really came out looking good.

As for the rivet size? Sorry I can't help you there.

I ordered mine from Inland RV, I had no idea what size I needed or what they sent but they worked.

[TG Twinkie]

Garry;
What tool did you use in the Dremel tool to shave down the Olympic rivets?

[garry]

I used one of the metal quick connect disk and shaved 54 rivets, took around 30 minuets.

I suspect the tool is faster but the price is fairly steep.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by 1985air345

3/16" or 1/4" rivets? What is the drill bit size for each one?

I have the go-ahead from the wife to order the tool to smooth them down. I want to do this correctly since I am taking "George" in for painting next month!

I am going to clean off the surface in the morning before it gets too hot outside.

Exterior Olympic rivets are 5/32. Buy yourself a new univolt or 1/2 tire for the cost of the rivet shaver, that's IMHO a better way to spend $200. I only bought it, because I had thousands to shave...

[overlander63]

I have created an a/c "kit" that consists of two curved bow sections and two sections of Z channel to rivet around the hole where the old a/c was, so the new a/c has something to clamp to. I'll see if I can transfer photos from my phone to here.

[Eric H]

Another option is to get some thinker aluminum (like stop sign thickness) and cut it a bit larger than the original flashing that was on it to cover the screw holes and give it plenty of surface area. When you screw down the large piece it will bow correctly and will create a strong platform for your new ac. You would need to cut a hole in it once it's on there, but that's easy. I completely removed my ac from the top and used thick aluminum and you can nearly walk on it if you are so inclined. Personally I would not use wood, but that's just me.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by overlander63

I have created an a/c "kit" that consists of two curved bow sections and two sections of Z channel to rivet around the hole where the old a/c was, so the new a/c has something to clamp to. I'll see if I can transfer photos from my phone to here.

Okay, I got the photos, after the window of editing expired.

[Eric H]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Okay, I got the photos, after the window of editing expired.

That looks solid! Better than wood!