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**azflycaster** · 05-25-2006, 10:05 AM

I recently bought 2 new aluminum (30#) lp tanks from VTS. They are now polished and ready to fill. I went to dry fit them first this morning and found that they are taller then the old steel tanks by 2 1/2 inches. The old tanks are 24" tall and the new ones are 26 1/2" tall. The rod is too short and will not work. The tops of the tanks are a little different also. The aluminum tanks habe a rolled top and the steel ones are not rolled. I can grind the upper clamp to fit the tanks with my Dremel, but what to do about the lenth of the rod. Can I get a longer rod that pins at the bottom or should I get a long full threaded rod and use nuts at the bottom? I do need to match the thread size at the upper clamp.

balrgn · 05-25-2006, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I recently bought 2 new aluminum (30#) lp tanks from VTS. They are now polished and ready to fill. I went to dry fit them first this morning and found that they are taller then the old steel tanks by 2 1/2 inches. The old tanks are 24" tall and the new ones are 26 1/2" tall. The rod is too short and will not work. The tops of the tanks are a little different also. The aluminum tanks habe a rolled top and the steel ones are not rolled. I can grind the upper clamp to fit the tanks with my Dremel, but what to do about the lenth of the rod. Can I get a longer rod that pins at the bottom or should I get a long full threaded rod and use nuts at the bottom? I do need to match the thread size at the upper clamp.

You should be able to get the same size "All Thread" (threaded rod) @ Home Depot or Loes, cut to lenght. If not, maybe my '73 still has one, I can measure and see if it will fit.

**azflycaster** · 05-25-2006, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by balrgn

You should be able to get the same size "All Thread" (threaded rod) @ Home Depot or Loes, cut to lenght. If not, maybe my '73 still has one, I can measure and see if it will fit.

I just took another look at it and the rod is 32" long. The pin is 3 1/2 inches from the bottom of the rod. Thr rod has another hole higher up which I think would be for 20# tanks. I wonder if it has a lower hole that I can not see since it is iinside of the tube on the frame? Either way, I travel with the older steel tanks tonight. One is almost full and that is plenty for a long weekend. Let me know what you find out about your 73 rod. Thanks....

47WeeWind · 05-25-2006, 11:03 AM

Balgrn has the answer: All Thread rod. Adjust it to the height you need up top to secure the two beautiful new aluminum tanks, with the excess on the bottom, then put double nuts and washers above and below the hole thru which the All Thread goes. Cut off any excess rod from the bottom.

More weight: I bought 3' of clear plastic tubing having an inside diameter equal to the outside diameter of the All Thread, cut the plastic tubing to fit the All Thread above the frame rails, then pushed the clear tubing on the All Thread, leaving enough exposed All Thread on top for the spin on handle that helps holds clamp (and tanks) in place.

wkerfoot · 05-25-2006, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 47WeeWind

Balgrn has the answer: All Thread rod. Adjust it to the height you need up top to secure the two beautiful new aluminum tanks, with the excess on the bottom, then put double nuts and washers above and below the hole thru which the All Thread goes. Cut off any excess rod from the bottom.

More weight: I bought 3' of clear plastic tubing having an inside diameter equal to the outside diameter of the All Thread, cut the plastic tubing to fit the All Thread above the frame rails, then pushed the clear tubing on the All Thread, leaving enough exposed All Thread on top for the spin on handle that helps holds clamp (and tanks) in place.

In addition, I would use loctite and/or nylock nuts on the top and bottom.

Bill

InsideOut · 05-25-2006, 12:29 PM

On some, I've seen the clamp bracket at the top go through the hand hold portion of the tanks instead of the top edge. This may make up the 2-1/2" to 3" difference until you get a new all-thread rod ~

Shari

clancy_boy · 05-25-2006, 12:35 PM

I had a local machine shop thread a SS rod top and bottom for my replacement. My issue was the old rod was mangled and cross threaded by the PO - the Caravel had no tanks when I bought it. The cost was very little - I think $11 bucks was the total and the guy had the materials on hand. Check and you may be shocked at what they can do for you.

wlj1943 · 05-25-2006, 01:03 PM

azflycaster,
I did the aluminium tank conversion last year. On my unit (1970 Cerritos built 18' Caravel) I punched out the rollpin that secured the lower end of the rod and found it was drilled for the taller tanks. Reinstall with a new roll pin or stainless steel hardware so the rod is taller. I reworked the regulator mount on the casting via an aluminium adaptor plate for a new regulator and installed a longer stainless steel flex to accomodiate the taller tanks. I found the fit and holding security for the tanks of the cast aluminium retainer was better through the side holes; so I just fabricated a 6061-T6 aluminium tube spacer about 2 1/2 inches long so the cast nut fit above same correctly. Use nylon washer as per the original between the nut and the spacer to prevent galling and be sure your casting wingnut has a stainless heli-coil installed also to prevent galling and seizure, not all early units had this installed from the factory. Also use anti-sieze compound on the threads periodically to keep the rust god at bay; the dissimmiliar metals really accelerate corrosion of the threads in the steel rod. All-thread is a second possibility but the smooth steel rod I think looks better; I zinc plated mine after derusting and then used the famous aluminium rustoleum rattlecan

to finish it off.

All said a really great improvement!

You can email me at wlj1943@molalla.net if you want me to send you some digital photos in a few days when I get back home.

WLJ1943

lewster · 05-25-2006, 02:03 PM

Hi All,

This is probably a good time to bring up the subject of LP tank locks. It is a little device that slides over the threaded rod and locks on to it with a key cylinder. It will not allow the large wing nut clamp to move....thus securing your cylinders.

If there is any interest in this little gizmo, I will post it in the classifieds with a photo. $10 plus shipping. Cheap insurance for your tanks!

Let me know!

wkerfoot · 05-25-2006, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

Hi All,

This is probably a good time to bring up the subject of LP tank locks. It is a little device that slides over the threaded rod and locks on to it with a key cylinder. It will not allow the large wing nut clamp to move....thus securing your cylinders.

If there is any interest in this little gizmo, I will post it in the classifieds with a photo. $10 plus shipping. Cheap insurance for your tanks!

Let me know!

Lew,

I would like to see that.

Bill

lewster · 05-25-2006, 02:09 PM

I'll have to get a shot of the one that I have on my CCD. I'll try to post it tonight.

uwe · 05-25-2006, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

Hi All,

This is probably a good time to bring up the subject of LP tank locks. It is a little device that slides over the threaded rod and locks on to it with a key cylinder. It will not allow the large wing nut clamp to move....thus securing your cylinders.

If there is any interest in this little gizmo, I will post it in the classifieds with a photo. $10 plus shipping. Cheap insurance for your tanks!

Let me know!

Yeah - post away.

overlander63 · 05-25-2006, 05:07 PM

I had the same issue when we changed from the steel tanks to the aluminum ones, and found that instead of clamping to the top edge, as we had with the steel tanks, we could clamp to the hole in the side of the top bracket, which was the same height as the top of the steel tanks.

balrgn · 05-25-2006, 05:38 PM

The 73's pieces are gone.

BEST TO GO NEW!

Frank S · 05-25-2006, 05:49 PM

Hi azflycaster--I replaced by rod 15-years ago with a length of steel threaded rod, which I believe was 1/2". Double nut locked tight on the bottom with a washer, cut to the length you need and you are ready to go. I lightly painted the rod with silver spray paint a couple of times, "and it's still ticking".--Frank S

CharlieE · 05-25-2006, 06:19 PM

Some years ago I was headed to Florida passing thru White Plains, New York at morning rush hour. As I was on an on-ramp from one interstate to another, I passed over a concrete road section about 4" higher than the next section. It created quite a jolt. Suddenly I heard a strange scrapping noise. A propane tank, 1/2 full had jumped off the carrier and was draging on the pavement. I knew imediately what that sound was. I managed to force my way to the shoulder. The tank was hanging by the rubber hose. I managed to find a large nail to replace the roll pin and carefully drove out of town. Stopping a few miles down the road, I checked the secirity of the tanks. I realized I may have tightened the hold down wing nut too tight and partially sheared the roll pin. All it took to shear it off was that sudden pavement drop. I looked again at the tank and there was a worn spot where it was dragging in the road. That spot was on the bottom compound curve of the tank. The worn spot was about 1 1/2" high by about 3" long. Must not have been much thickness left in that spot. I realized then what could have happened if that spot blew out in that crowded place. Loose propane and an open spark from one of all those vehicles could have incinerated a bunch of us. If your trailer has roll pins holding it in place, I suggest you accept my advice and replace it with a threaded rod or get it welded at the bottom. Charlie Eglise

uwe · 05-25-2006, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CharlieE

I looked again at the tank and there was a worn spot where it was dragging in the road. That spot was on the bottom compound curve of the tank. The worn spot was about 1 1/2" high by about 3" long. Must not have been much thickness left in that spot. I realized then what could have happened if that spot blew out in that crowded place. Loose propane and an open spark from one of all those vehicles could have incinerated a bunch of us.

That's a great selling point for aluminum tanks, btw. Not only are they lighter in weight, but they do not produce sparks while being dragged over pavement.

gotair · 05-25-2006, 11:06 PM

Mr. Lew,
Where's that picture of your lock

... My tanks got stollen this past winter and I've been looking for the coolest way to lock 'em up ... ten bucks is cheeper than insurance...and the bad guys get to pick on someone else... where did you find it.. etc... thanks for the info..
Dan

lewster · 05-26-2006, 07:57 AM

I'll be out at my CCD later today and will get the post up tonight!

clancy_boy · 05-26-2006, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotair

Mr. Lew,
Where's that picture of your lock

... My tanks got stollen this past winter and I've been looking for the coolest way to lock 'em up ... ten bucks is cheeper than insurance...and the bad guys get to pick on someone else... where did you find it.. etc... thanks for the info..
Dan

I'll have to go by the closest FEMA FARM and take a photo of their locks. With all the campers being used as shelter here in South Mississippi, there has been an underground market in stolen tanks. FEMA's solution (and not one I recommend) is a 3/4 inch link chain and a huge pad lock. Works, but looks real bad. BTW - if you know the "right guy" you can pick up a full (or what ever level propane was in the tank when aquired) tanks for cheep - buyer beware.