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Old 12-23-2015, 05:22 AM   #1
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No electric on aircondition, tv and coffee machine when connected to 110 V shorline?

Hi,
I am using an Interstate 3500.
When I connect the electric system to 110 V Shorline, I have no power coming to ceiling aircondition , tv and coffee machine , even inner lights. Only the electric outlets are working.
But all these devices are working ok with the built in generator , but nothing except electric outlets are powering with shorline.
What may be the problem please?
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:45 AM   #2
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Have you checked your fuses, and is your invertor on?


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Old 12-23-2015, 06:02 AM   #3
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Dear Maggie,
Thank you for your reply.
Yes, I've checked the fuses, they're ok and the inverter is on.
But still have no power.
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Old 12-23-2015, 06:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arifarda View Post
Hi,
I am using an Interstate 3500.
When I connect the electric system to 110 V Shorline, I have no power coming to ceiling aircondition , tv and coffee machine , even inner lights. Only the electric outlets are working.
But all these devices are working ok with the built in generator , but nothing except electric outlets are powering with shorline.
What may be the problem please?
arifarda,

You have a device called a transfer switch that selects power from either the shore line or generator. It is a silver box usually located at the rear of the coach against the wall, inside the rear door on the driver's side. Probably behind the black fabric.

I would think that it is defective as it is only allowing the generator to pass thru power.

If you have knowledge of electrical circuits, PM me and I'll walk you thru testing this device.

Good Luck!!
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Old 12-23-2015, 06:32 AM   #5
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Are you sure that you have power? What is your power source?

Did you plug into a receptacle at home? Or a camp ground?

Is it a GFI?
If so it might have tripped or the fuse in your home panel might have tripped when you plugged it in..


Your power cord might be bad..
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Old 12-23-2015, 06:45 AM   #6
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I am using the motorhome in a country where using 220 V shorline.
So I bought an 220 V to 110 V adaptor, regulator and using the shorline with this adaptor.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:02 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arifarda View Post
I am using the motorhome in a country where using 220 V shorline.
So I bought an 220 V to 110 V adaptor, regulator and using the shorline with this adaptor.
If you're in a different country, that brings up another possibility. Your appliances require electricity at 60Hz, so if the country you're in provides electricity at some other frequency such as 50Hz, those appliances will not work properly, or possibly not at all.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:39 AM   #8
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I think that's your problem...


http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/overseas/
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:42 AM   #9
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I think that's your problem...


Will My Electronics Work Overseas?
Even if that doesn't help the op, I appreciate the info, very interesting.
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arifarda View Post
I am using the motorhome in a country where using 220 V shorline.
So I bought an 220 V to 110 V adaptor, regulator and using the shorline with this adaptor.
Does this adapter reduce the 220 To 110? I'd start at the 220 VAC pedestal and start checking voltage at each step along the way.
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Old 12-24-2015, 01:42 AM   #11
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Lew...regarding my 2015 AS Interstate GranTour...I received a factory recall notice about a bonding wire that must be relocated or else it
Could create a fire hazard.
We live 40 miles north of you and at this moment are on a Christmas trip to North Carolina. The local dealer in Florida performed the recall and we were going to leave the next day but
The auxiliary battery wasn't charging properly and we were getting strange battery readings.
I advised the dealership and they said to keep charging the battery and proceed with our trip.
By the time we arrived NC we had lost ALL of our 12 volt system unless we had main engine running. Could not operate heater at night and outside temp dropped to 35 degrees and we froze in Asheville.
Only after begging big time was I able
To get the NC dealer to examine the problem. They spent over SEVEN hours and exclaimed it was putting out 24 volts rather than 12 volts! We ended up with a hotel and rentacar.
It seems to be fixed but I was NOT given an invoice description for the work and I am wondering if damage can occur to the batteries and other systems due to running 1000 miles on
24 volts rather than 12.
You are the guru. What thinkest you?
Jeff
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Old 12-24-2015, 05:49 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jeffbec51 View Post
Lew...regarding my 2015 AS Interstate GranTour...I received a factory recall notice about a bonding wire that must be relocated or else it
Could create a fire hazard.
We live 40 miles north of you and at this moment are on a Christmas trip to North Carolina. The local dealer in Florida performed the recall and we were going to leave the next day but
The auxiliary battery wasn't charging properly and we were getting strange battery readings.
I advised the dealership and they said to keep charging the battery and proceed with our trip.
By the time we arrived NC we had lost ALL of our 12 volt system unless we had main engine running. Could not operate heater at night and outside temp dropped to 35 degrees and we froze in Asheville.
Only after begging big time was I able
To get the NC dealer to examine the problem. They spent over SEVEN hours and exclaimed it was putting out 24 volts rather than 12 volts! We ended up with a hotel and rentacar.
It seems to be fixed but I was NOT given an invoice description for the work and I am wondering if damage can occur to the batteries and other systems due to running 1000 miles on
24 volts rather than 12.
You are the guru. What thinkest you?
Jeff
WOW!!!! Incompetence at it's best!!!

The only way you would be getting 24VDC into your coach is if someone rewired your house batteries in series rather than parallel. You should have 2 -12VDC Lifeline Group 24's. One wire at the batteries would do it, unless you have the aux. battery under the hood and they series connected that to your start battery, but that would have taken out your engine's 12VDC systems.

If indeed they did this, I would suspect that most of your 12VDC appliances are toast, but can't be certain. Things like your inverter/charger, furnace motor, A/C control board and t/stat, fridge compressors, etc. Possibly the control on the BIM. Most of these are not dual voltage units and would fry with that much DC being sent into them.

PM me for more info.

THANKS!

How much stuff isn't working????
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Old 12-24-2015, 08:17 AM   #13
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Lew

If they did in fact have 24 volts on the 12 volt system I would have assumed that any interior light would have blown the second they turned it on.

Like wise if there is no isolation between the coach and TV systems what would 24 volts have done to the TV computer and associated electrical systems?
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:21 AM   #14
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Since the new Interstate coaches use LED lighting, they usually have an operational range of 9-30 VDC, do I didn't include them in the potential carnage. They also use 120 VAC TVs so they wouldn't get blown out either.

But in reality, ya just never know!!!!


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Old 12-24-2015, 12:24 PM   #15
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Lew,
Could the BIM have been potentially damaged to the point that 24v could have had an impact on the chassis electrical system i.e.; DDE, alternator, battery and other control units?
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Old 12-24-2015, 01:47 PM   #16
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Lew,
Could the BIM have been potentially damaged to the point that 24v could have had an impact on the chassis electrical system i.e.; DDE, alternator, battery and other control units?
Road Jager
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If the house batteries were indeed wired in series for 24VDC, I'm not sure what the impact on the BIM would have been. It's operational scheme is to combine the 2 battery systems when one is below 12.6VDC (If I recall) AND there is a charging source present.

In this scenario, IF the chassis battery was low (below 12.6VDC) AND the BIM saw the voltage of 24VDC (it probably would have been more like 25.6+), then it's entirely possible that the solenoid would have closed and combined the 2 battery banks and everything you listed above would have fried! I would hope that the sensing circuitry of the BIM would have been blown out by the high voltage input from the improperly wired house bank and NOT combined the 2 banks.

This is a great question for Precision Circuits Inc. to answer, or to have someone capable start poking around with a meter in the OP's rig to do some forensic investigation.
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Old 12-24-2015, 03:35 PM   #17
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The PCI BIM also has logic to turn off the relay if either battery goes above 15.5V for 30 seconds.


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Old 12-24-2015, 04:32 PM   #18
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Good to know. That would potentially save the entire chassis 12VDC electrical system.


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Old 12-25-2015, 03:58 AM   #19
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Many thanks Lew.
Will Contact you very soon.
Merry Christmas!
Jeff
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Old 12-25-2015, 05:31 AM   #20
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To the op, does the engine startup?
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