Would I have to replace my current W/D hitch?

[Belbein]

I'm looking to replace my 22' Sport with something bigger, but running into all sorts of specifications issues. One of the rabbit trails this has taken me down is the question of the weight distribution hitch. My dealer insisted that I need a new Equalizer hitch. I hate to sound suspicious, but this sounds like a needles yourself to me. Do I really need to change to an Equalizer hitch if I go from a 22 to a 25?

I tried to figure out what my current w/d hitch is, and it's not specified in the contract documents for my 22 ... No name, no weight rating in the docs and apparently I didn't get any sort of spec sheet on it. (Trailer is about an hour away so can't easily get up there to look to see if there's a name or model # on it.) the 22 is a2014, so it's probably whatever Airstream dealers were pushing back in 2014.

[GammaDog]

I think you’re wise to be suspicious.

The first step is to figure out what you currently own. I hear you about the distance to your trailer (and hitch) in storage. If you were able to get there and take a pic, I’m thinking the braintrust here can id it for you.

If it happens to be an equal-I-zer (which I use and am familiar with), it may be reusable in whole or in part. Equal-I-zers have different head/shank models which are sized based on trailer gross weight. The weight bars are sized based on trailer tongue weight. The larger trailer may work with the hitch you have, may just require new/beefier bars or may be undersized and need to be replaced completely.

[Bill M.]

I expect a 25 is a lot heavier than a 22. Changing hitches would not seem to be a big deal. If I was going to change hitches I would look at the Blue Ox. And yes, maybe the old on is fine. Has the Airstream dealer seen your old hitch? I see no way to actually answer the question about changing hitches until we know what hitch you have now. And maybe what TV. Dealer should know something about hitching.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

You very much need to figure out what you have right now as the first step. There should be stickers on the beast (which may still be readable ... maybe ...) with some info on them. If not, measure the bars with a ruler to see how thick (height and width) they are. That should get you to the "size" of the hitch you have.

Assuming that what you have is the right size, part needs to be pulled off the existing trailer. The dealer may or may not be happy with this. If he wants to leave part on the trailer, you *can* buy the hitch in pieces to replace that part.

If you have a 600 pound hitch and he's taking you up to a 1,000 pound, then indeed you are buying most of a new hitch.

The interesting part is that not everything that is on the back of your truck / front of the trailer is a WD hitch ( go figure). You have a shank that goes into the coupler and the actual hitch mounts (via the ball) onto the shank. The shank and hitch get bought separately. Assuming the two trailers have the same ball height, the old shank should do just fine.

If you dig in a bit further, A shank might be about 1/4 of the typical bill. The hitch might be about 1/2. Labor is the other 1/4. Indeed those are *very* rough numbers.

Bob

[jimfa440]

Simply get some stronger spring bars, everything else works fine.

[majorairhead]

I concur with the need to identify exactly what hitch you currently have, and from there determine if that hitch will work with the new trailer/setup.

If it does, then you're good to go.

If not, then you need to buy another hitch that'll do the job.

[waninae39]

the bar sizes depend on what you pull.
it maybe as simple as just getting new bars
some models allow this
some models need a complete new system.

the WD capacity has to be greater than the MAX pull. If the bars are too big, then the ride will be very hard.
too little and you may run in trouble and/or break something

[Atwebs]

Take the time to figure it out, there also might be a solid reason beyond the recommendation.

We have towed smaller trailers that didn't need any sort of equalizer with our truck, but the Airstream Dealer recommended either Equalizer or Blue Ox. My husband got a chance to test both and went with Blue Ox although it can be a bother to put on (really heavy and requires strength to tighten and loosen).

But, the first time on a long trip and he was sold. That trailer is solidly attached and follows as if it is part of the truck. We get less Bernoulli effect when passing or being passed by something bigger.

The funniest part? Him trying to convince our son, who bought our old white box trailer that he'd do better with a stabilizer system even though he has the same sort of truck we towed that same trailer with sans stabilizer for YEARS!

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Atwebs

Take the time to figure it out, there also might be a solid reason beyond the recommendation.

We have towed smaller trailers that didn't need any sort of equalizer with our truck, but the Airstream Dealer recommended either Equalizer or Blue Ox. My husband got a chance to test both and went with Blue Ox although it can be a bother to put on (really heavy and requires strength to tighten and loosen).

But, the first time on a long trip and he was sold. That trailer is solidly attached and follows as if it is part of the truck. We get less Bernoulli effect when passing or being passed by something bigger.

The funniest part? Him trying to convince our son, who bought our old white box trailer that he'd do better with a stabilizer system even though he has the same sort of truck we towed that same trailer with sans stabilizer for YEARS!

Agree with most all of the recommendations: you need to identify what WDH you have and decide "if" it will work on the 25; when in doubt, call the mfg of the hitch and ask. The TW on the new 25' AS (850#-1000#)is substantially heavier then the 22' Sport, (500#). There is a chance your current model can be upgraded to heavier spring bars, (assuming it uses spring bars?) If not, you have choices out there for a new hitch in various price points...We also use the Blue Ox; have had Equalizer and Reese on past 25' AS models, but settled on the Blue Ox on our last 3 units and are happy.

As for the Blue Ox WDH (above) being heavy and "requiring strength" to tighten; that is a matter of technique when loading. If you watch the many video's out there, you will see most of us who have them use the power jack to take the stress/spring out of the hitch when we hook up the AS and same when we unload. Many of us also replaced the stock wrench they supply, with a longer handle "breaker bar" with 1" socket. If your using the power jack properly, many times, you can rotate the chain lock mechanism almost with just your hand and no tool!

[sheriff1]

Just remember to jack it up BEFORE you release it as well or your holding a very tightly wound spring in your hand.

[guskmg]

If you want to use your old hitch take one of the spring bars to the original dealer and have them identify its capacity. Then, if you are using a second dealer, have him check and see if heavier spring bars will do the job. You may be better off with a whole new hitch, but the old one has trade in value. So all will not be lost. Sell the old one yourself.
guskmg