Equalizer hitch -- Is this normal?

[dave_stream]

We've been full-timing since September and have been using our hitch as the airstream dealer originally told us to. However, it's gotten quite rusty/rickety (see video below). Is this normal/safe? Any guidance would be much appreciated!

Video link: https://i.imgur.com/VgKuKjn.mp4

Dave

[tjdonahoe]

Normal. That is why I like the Reese duel cam

[AnnaBelle33]

Load up on this. It works!!


https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store...ance-lubricant

[Gary W]

The pin that holds the slug into the hitch receiver, is it a straight pin or one with a bend on the end opposite the keeper clip? If its a bent pin, check the receiver holes and see if the have become egg shaped from the pin bent end wearing on the receiver hole.
I had this happen on my previous brand X box trailer where the egg shaped pin hole was worn to the point you could feel the clunk when stopping or pulling away and the hitch was sloppy in the receiver as your video indicated. I had a welder add 1/4 steel plates on both sides of the receiver, switched to a straight pin, and added an anti-rattle bracket. Do a google search or go to a trailer hitch shop and ask but due get a heavy duty model.
I was told by my welder that the receiver metal is ok but softer thus subject to wear from the bend on the end of the pin wearing the metal. I also suspect US v/s metric sizing contributing to sloppy hitch/receiver match up.
A good welding shop can fix your issue and the cost is reasonable.

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by Gary W

I also suspect US v/s metric sizing contributing to sloppy hitch/receiver match up.

No, that's not it.
The problem is the people that use to leave a hitch in the receiver until it rusted solid cried to the hitch manufacturers and the receiver manufacturers so they both added slop to loosen the fit.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, while you are at it , look to see if your receiver is a Round Tube type that GM used for many years. If it is, they are junk and will break.

[KK4YZ]

You might want to rub the grease off your dog’s nose��
Actually that much slop looks excessive to me. Try to shim it out.

[paiceman]

If your truck is a super duty, 3/4 or 1 ton you are probably using an adapter which I have used and did not like as it wobbled. So I purchased from Equalizer a shank that fit my super duty.

Also, I take my equalizer apart every winter as I did with my reese prior, sand it, repaint and grease.

Enjoy

Bud

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by dave_stream

We've been full-timing since September and have been using our hitch as the airstream dealer originally told us to. However, it's gotten quite rusty/rickety (see video below). Is this normal/safe? Any guidance would be much appreciated!



Video link: https://i.imgur.com/VgKuKjn.mp4



Dave

It looks like a little surface rust, steel will rust. Steel wool and some black gloss spray or paint on will fix it. ....rickety, needs a little more explanation see manual
https://www.equalizerhitch.com/owner...fore-each-trip

[amxpress]

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-...ophy/RSCP.html

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by dave_stream

However, it's gotten quite rusty/rickety (see video below).

I've posted this picture in a previous post. I prefer avoiding any movement of the hitch mechanism (I have an Equalizer and I am very satisfied with it).
The goal is to eliminate most if not all friction with the shank, the receiver and the pin.

For the past 30 years, my hitches have had a "jam bolt". I didn't invent this, it was an experienced owner of a hitch shop who recommended it to me back then. For example, on my current 3/4 ton TV I had a jam bolt hole drilled and a nut welded on top of the receiver (click photo to zoom in). I have also had jam bolt holes drilled and a nut welded under the receiver. Both work.

Once the jam bolt is torqued tightly (similar to a wheel lug) the shank won't move even when the trailer is hitched. In addition you won't get ovalized pin holes because you don't have any movement against the pin. And if anybody wants to pull out your hitch, they will need to have the right size wrench! (in addition to removing your locked pin, if that is what you have).

If you have an adapter sleeve, I recommended that you weld it in place. The receiver plus the welded adapter double the steel thickness of your pin holes, making doubly sure they will not elongate or become oval with time.

With these two simple and inexpensive "upgrades" you shouldn't have any problems and years of maintenance free use.

[Mollysdad]

I also have an Equalizer hitch and although mine may not have quite that much play, it has some.
Once the bars are tensioned on the "L" pads, that will go away.
I wouldn't worry about it.

BTW, the play is between the shank and your receiver, neither of which is an uniquely Equalizer part.
If it bothers you buy a new shank and see if it's better.

[GOUSC]

I may be missing something but it looks to me like it is installed upside down. I thought the angled part of the hitch that is facing up in the picture should be below the shank, not sticking up from it. This would also mean they have the hitch ball mounted incorrectly.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

No, that's not it.
The problem is the people that use to leave a hitch in the receiver until it rusted solid cried to the hitch manufacturers and the receiver manufacturers so they both added slop to loosen the fit.

BINGO


I welded three wide beads on the top & sides of the stinger & ground down to fit snuggly.
The welded reducer increases the wall thickness of the pin hole.👍

Bob
🇺🇸

[mwodzinski]

It looks like too much play at the receiver. You might want to try a hitch “rattle reducer”.

I would also recommend you contact Equal-i-zer (https://www.equalizerhitch.com) customer support. Also, don’t be afraid to lubricate the hitch and use rust inhibitor on the wearing parts

Here are some links:

LPS Rust Inhibitor: https://www.amazon.com/Premier-Rust-...s%2C191&sr=8-3

Curt hitch anti-rattle: https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufact...0671260&sr=8-1

I hope this helps. Happy camping!

[Wazbro]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

I may be missing something but it looks to me like it is installed upside down. I thought the angled part of the hitch that is facing up in the picture should be below the shank, not sticking up from it. This would also mean they have the hitch ball mounted incorrectly.

No, it can be installed as a drop (going down) or a rise (going up), whichever way is needed to get the trailer level. Just most trucks are so high anymore the drop is usually needed.

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by Wazbro

No, it can be installed as a drop (going down) or a rise (going up), whichever way is needed to get the trailer level. Just most trucks are so high anymore the drop is usually needed.

Thanks for letting me know as I’d only seen it as a drop. I was out of town when I viewed this thread and could only view it with my phone. The video would not work so this was the only thing that looked odd to me. Once I got home I could view on my computer and see all the slop in the the receiver. This is not normal or safe IMO. I agree a hitch clamp or shim’s would help this.

[BayouBiker]

From a hitch performance perspective, it is important to eliminate all the sources of play. While tensioned up the play is preloaded out of the system, but on the road the variable and dynamic forces act to allow all the play to degrade system stability. The play will conspire against you in situation where you most need the hitch to perform its purposes.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

I may be missing something but it looks to me like it is installed upside down. I thought the angled part of the hitch that is facing up in the picture should be below the shank, not sticking up from it. This would also mean they have the hitch ball mounted incorrectly.

No, the shank can be used either way depending on how much drop or lift is needed.