Copper lines

[buda-2]

Hello; I would like to know how to repair frozen water lines, I coupling won't fit over the copper because it's swollen. I don't like the hose/clamp route, I don't trust. it.
Bud 1972 Safari.

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by ottenot

Hello; I would like to know how to repair frozen water lines, I coupling won't fit over the copper because it's swollen. I don't like the hose/clamp route, I don't trust. it.
Bud 1972 Safari.

Cut back to where the lines are the correct size, or pull them out and replace with PEX. There is really no way to repair a swollen copper line.

Aaron

[bullydogsmom]

We had broken pipes everywere, we just replace everything with pex. Old copper is just that old copper. You might find as some here have that the o.d. is different on the old pipe compared to what is available today. More problems.

Annette

[ambassadorT]

I too had same problem. Called a plumber and I told him to put a coupler on it but when he saw that (1) the pipes were green(corrosion) (2) the 1/2 inch copper swelled up then a coupler could not applied he basically was going to say goodbye. I'm ripping all of it out now and putting in all new. Yes, plex. But I can't do the plex because I don't have the tool and I don't want any problems in the out years. Get 'er done now; and right. At least I can do the ripping and save on some expense.
I have a picture of the green pipe.

[tkowalyk]

Cutting and replacing with copper is an easy and permanent fix.

[purman]

You can get the tool at Home Depot for $54. I did... Or rental shops will rent them out..

[buda-2]

Thanks for all the replies, I think I will do the PEX
Bud 1972 23' Safari.

[PizzaChop]

Purchase a plumber's swage (sp?) from a hardware store and enlarge the pipe which is swollen until the replacement copper will fit inside of it. (I had to do this in numerous places.) You'll notice from the picture graduated diameters on the swage.

Sweating copper is not difficult provided you clean the joints very well with emory cloth or wire brush (battery terminal brush works well). Apply flux to both fittings and join together, heat with torch till cherry red, touch the end of the solder to the joint and watch it get sucked into the gap. It is a skill set which can be re-used over and over again.

A propane torch, solder, flux, a copper cutting wheel, and the proper fittings, replacement copper and a little patience are all you need. Maybe a $25 investment, and you don't have to return a thing.

[easyride]

Originally Posted by PizzaChop

Purchase a plumber's swage (sp?) from a hardware store and enlarge the pipe which is swollen until the replacement copper will fit inside of it. (I had to do this in numerous places.) You'll notice from the picture graduated diameters on the swage.

Sweating copper is not difficult provided you clean the joints very well with emory cloth or wire brush (battery terminal brush works well). Apply flux to both fittings and join together, heat with torch till cherry red, touch the end of the solder to the joint and watch it get sucked into the gap. It is a skill set which can be re-used over and over again.

A propane torch, solder, flux, a copper cutting wheel, and the proper fittings, replacement copper and a little patience are all you need. Maybe a $25 investment, and you don't have to return a thing.

If you are getting your copper cherry red you are burning up your flux,it doesn`t need to be near that hot,just hot enough to melt the solder.If you want to get it red hot then skip the flux and use silver solder.Dave

[FreshAir]

I 'inherited' a number of split copper pipes in our rade Wind 3 years ago.. For quick fixes I cut the copper at the split and slipped a reinforced plastic tubing connector and clamp it in place. I am slowly replacing all of the copper with PEX begining with the damaged pipe. The quick fix keeps us traveling but I reguarly check the 'fixes' that are left. Pex with Shark Bite connectors are the way to go.
Neil.

[grtwhthuntr]

Sil-fos (hard Solder) does the trick for me in a pinch. Mapp gas is required as it has a higher melting point however, sil-fos has the strength to cover the split without fear of leaking. External flux is not required as each stick has its own. This is not for confined places as the copper has to get "almost" cherry red. Also, if you have a soft solder joint close by, you have an opportunity to disrupt it as well...wrap a wet rag around it to act as a heat sink.
This type of repair is permenant and "almost" fool-proof and buys time before you change out to PEX.
Good-luck

[PizzaChop]

If you are getting your copper cherry red you are burning up your flux,it doesn`t need to be near that hot,just hot enough to melt the solder.If you want to get it red hot then skip the flux and use silver solder.Dave

Okay, bad use of terms. I do only get it hot enough till the solder melts.

[maccamper]

One other option after the swollen pipe has been cut out is to rent or purchase a flaring tool. Unless the pipe is hugely swollen, it should not be a problem to create a decent flare.

You can then flare the cut ends and put in a couple unions to install a new piece of pipe. Unions for copper pipe may not be available at your local big box store (Lowes, etc) but a plumbing supply place should be able to get them.

[mandolindave]

Originally Posted by FreshAir

I 'inherited' a number of split copper pipes in our rade Wind 3 years ago.. For quick fixes I cut the copper at the split and slipped a reinforced plastic tubing connector and clamp it in place. I am slowly replacing all of the copper with PEX begining with the damaged pipe. The quick fix keeps us traveling but I reguarly check the 'fixes' that are left. Pex with Shark Bite connectors are the way to go.
Neil.

My sharkbite repair job in my house leaked. I am thinking that the sharkbite relies on water pressure ( I don't always have water pressure in my trailer )to keep a tight fit. But I don't know.
Also I think that the sharkbite couplers need to be secured and in a very strait line. I don't know that I fully trust the shark bite sustem. My city based plumbing supply expert said that he won't recommend them, stating that they are only widely used in the country where water pressure is much lower than in the city. Please educate me if you can. Dave

[flyfshr]

I don't think I would recommend PEX for a home install. Too much water pressure. It is perfect in an RV when coupled with a water pressure regulator. I, too, tore out the swollen copper and put in PEX although I didn't use the SharkBite fittings. I just used the regular fittings that are installed by hand with a final twist with a pliers. I had one small leak in the shower cold water feed and with another 1/2 twist on the fitting, no more leaks. This was 8 years ago and countless miles. I would do it again and probably will on another vintage trailer one day.

Brad
FF

[FreshAir]

My only frustration with Shark Bite is that they are pricey. For 'accessible' connections I use the 'twist' connections. Around my water heater the working space is limited to just using one hand. Shark Bite saved me from removing cabinets.
Neil

[bullydogsmom]

Originally Posted by flyfshr

I don't think I would recommend PEX for a home install. Too much water pressure. It is perfect in an RV when coupled with a water pressure regulator. I, too, tore out the swollen copper and put in PEX although I didn't use the SharkBite fittings. I just used the regular fittings that are installed by hand with a final twist with a pliers. I had one small leak in the shower cold water feed and with another 1/2 twist on the fitting, no more leaks. This was 8 years ago and countless miles. I would do it again and probably will on another vintage trailer one day.

Brad
FF

Both of our sons have built new homes within the last 2 years and it was pex all the way by two different bulders. Even the baseboard hot water heat is put together with pex. Me thinks it's the way of the future. Does A really nice job too.

Sometimes it's hard to teach us old dogs new tricks, but sometimes new is better.

Annette

[easyride]

Originally Posted by flyfshr

I don't think I would recommend PEX for a home install. Too much water pressure. It is perfect in an RV when coupled with a water pressure regulator. I, too, tore out the swollen copper and put in PEX although I didn't use the SharkBite fittings. I just used the regular fittings that are installed by hand with a final twist with a pliers. I had one small leak in the shower cold water feed and with another 1/2 twist on the fitting, no more leaks. This was 8 years ago and countless miles. I would do it again and probably will on another vintage trailer one day.

Brad
FF

When we do a new job,especially above the 2nd floor,the system is pressurized to 150# before we ever introduce water into the system.The pressure regulators on my Overlanders were thrown away as soon as I went to pex.I really don`t think I will find a water service exceeding that pressure.Dave

[mimiandrews]

We ripped out all the copper and replaced it with color-coded PEX. Hard part was planning the installation so that there was room for the PEX tool to operate where the last connector had to be. Most of it was laid out and assembled elsewhere, then put in place and the last connections made. We used the swaged copper ring fittings, because we feared that vibration on the road would loosen shark-bite or the other compression-type fittings.

So far, we're happy with the system. When restoration is complete and we're on the road, we'll have the final answer.

[purman]

Europe has be using stuff like pex for years. Sometimes the US is so far behind. Take cell phones for instance.. ATT&T is the only company using simcards and that is limited.
DARK AGES>>>>>>>