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03-01-2008, 09:24 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1983 31' Airstream310
Iowa City
, Iowa
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 232
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Clutch Fan Tips
My clutch fan locked itself up during a recent trip and does not freewheel when the engine is cool. Makes a LOT of noise. I found the following tips when browsing a GM Motorhome forum and thought it would be worth sharing...
I thought the part about proper right-side-up storage would be valuable info!
.................................................. ............ ........................................
How do I know if my Fan Clutch is working?
The Wiley Fan Clutch by Chuck Arnold
http://www.thepowershop.com/fanclutch.htm
From time to time some motorhome owner will call me and say that he needs help because his
transmission won't shift out of second gear. Hearing this complaint, I usually ask "Is this motorhome new
to you?" Often the response is that the person has had the coach only a short time. Usually the rig is not
equipped with a tachometer (rpm gauge) and the owner or driver is misinterpreting a loud noise they are
hearing as being excessive engine rpm. I ask them if the noise goes away when they go downhill or when
the motor is cold. I ask them if it is worse or starts when they go uphill. If they say yes to these
questions, then all that is occurring is that they are hearing the normal sound of the fan clutch doing its
intended job.
The Fan Clutch is a device which permits the engine to avoid wasting horsepower by sucking cooling air
through the radiator when it is not needed. Once the motor is hot enough to need more cooling than is
provided by the normal flow of air caused by moving down the road, the fan clutch engages, causing the
fan to spin, creating more air flow to cool the engine down. Fan Clutches contain a heat-activated valve
and a special silicone fluid which permit the fan to freewheel up to a certain temperature and then to
lockup and move much more air above that temperature. This action reduces noise, saves gas, and
makes more power available to the wheels under lighter load operation. Fan clutches can be engineered
to come on at specific temperatures. Most tow vehicles and motorhomes have fan clutches which
engage when the air coming through the radiator is between 200 and 205 degrees. If you are standing
next to a running engine and the temperature is rising through the 200 degree area you will notice a
significant change of the amount of air being moved by the fan when the Fan Clutch turns on. It will seem
like a switch turned the fan on. One second the clutch is off and the next you will hear the noise and
notice much more air. (A very few clutch fans come on gradually rather than quickly)
It is a good idea to make a point of being aware of what your fan clutch sounds like and when it turns
on. Know by outside temperature, steepness of hill, amount of load, and reading on your dash
temperature gauge when it should turn on. As time goes on you may encounter a fan clutch failure or
some other problem which may lead to engine overheating. If you no longer hear the familiar sound of
the fan clutch engaging when it should, you can predict problems with overheating just around the
corner.
You can recognize a failed fan clutch in a number of ways. Look for excessive play in the bearing on the
clutch shaft and for evidence of the silicon fluid leaking out. If you inspect the front of the clutch
assembly with a light and mirror and see a greasy substance around the thermostatic spring a failure is in
progress. If the motor is at operating temperature and running at 2500 rpm or so and is quickly shut off
while someone watches the fan and the fan spins more than 4 or 5 seconds the fan clutch is bad. The
Fan Clutch does not have to be engaged for this spinning test. You can carefully cause a controlled
overheating of the engine by blocking the radiator with cardboard and monitoring the temperature while
idling in park with the brake on. If you are measuring the air temperature behind the radiator with a
thermometer and the temperature gets above 210 degrees without the Fan Clutch engaging and a
noticeable increase in air flow occurring, the Fan Clutch is bad. Be very sure to watch this procedure
carefully and remove the cardboard when done. You could ruin your engine if you forgot to remove the
cardboard. Some Fan Clutches are noisy when cold and quiet down when they warm up a bit. As long
at the Fan Clutch works properly at higher temperatures this is nothing to worry about. Be sure to avoid
the moving belts and fan. Most mechanics can remember a careless moment when they almost were
injured by the spinning fan. Stories of lost hands and fingers are a grim reminder to be very careful
around machinery.
It is very important to note that the handling of new Fan Clutches and used ones removed for other
repairs is critical. All new Fan Clutches come in boxes marked with a "This Side Up" arrow. Fan
Clutches which are not stored correctly before installation may never work properly. If you get a new
fan clutch and distrust how it has been stored, it is a good idea to let it stand on your shelf in the proper
orientation for 24 hours or so to avoid trouble. A used fan clutch which is taken off for repair of other
engine components must be stored in its normal running vertical position until it is reinstalled or it will not
work properly again. I learned this at a Delco-sponsored air conditioning school.
I was one of a hundred or so mechanics in the class who were embarassed to learn that we had been ruining every Fan
Clutch we had ever removed. If you have worked on engines and noticed occasions when you had
overheating occur after a repair in which the Fan Clutch was laid flat on the floor for a few days, you
have had this experience too.
Know your Fan Clutch. Observe it doing its proper job and treat it right when servicing, and your travels will go better during the RV'n part of your life.
__________________
Airstream OCD...there is no cure!
1983 Classic 310 Motorhome.
AIR 15765
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03-01-2008, 09:33 AM
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#2
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Tramp Streamer
Commercial Member
1995 28' Excella
Artist
, at Large
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,002
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Thanks Auretrvr!
Great info
Had I only known about this 7 years ago
Best,
Michael
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03-01-2008, 09:37 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,699
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Good informational post!
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03-01-2008, 09:40 AM
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#4
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The Hawk's Lair
1985 34.5' Airstream 345
BACK WOODS
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 922
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My fan clutch is also locked up and I am just waiting for warmer weather to replace it.
I have also been told by an Isuzu mechanic that if the clutch is locked so the fan cannot free wheel, it will actually caues the engine to run warmer than usual.
Sounds strange though. Seems like the extra air would make the engine run cooler.
__________________
AKA THE GUNNER
There is no "I" in the word "team," but there are four in "Platitude Quoting Idiot!"
AIRSTREAM 345 TURBO-DIESEL
VFW, LEGION, NRA
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03-01-2008, 08:48 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
Placerville
, California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,328
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Electric fan clutch
My very first car was a 1948 Ford. I got it in 1954. Installed on it was an ELECTRIC fan clutch, thermostatically controlled. I do not ever remember having any overheating problems during the 5 years I had it. Off course, being young I had to play with it. I rigged it up with a switch on the dash to be sure to ensure a little advantage during the ocassional street drag 'challenges' . What happened to the electric clutch idea? I replace todays clutches every 2 or so years.
Neil
__________________
Neil and Lynn Holman
FreshAir #12407
Avatar;
Kirk Creek, Big Sur, Ca. coast.
1966 Trade Wind
1971 Buick Centurion convertible
455 cid
1969 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
455 cid
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03-01-2008, 08:52 PM
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#6
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooperhawk
My fan clutch is also locked up and I am just waiting for warmer weather to replace it.
I have also been told by an Isuzu mechanic that if the clutch is locked so the fan cannot free wheel, it will actually caues the engine to run warmer than usual.
Sounds strange though. Seems like the extra air would make the engine run cooler.
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The engine has to work harder than it should to force the air through the radiator.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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03-02-2008, 04:52 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Definitely an interesting post on how to deal with the fan clutches.
So far ours seems to be working but my long term plans are to replace the mechanical fan with 2 electric ones. Seems to be the method of choice for a lot of people.
Great post, thanks!
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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04-10-2008, 07:26 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
1983 31' Airstream310
Iowa City
, Iowa
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 232
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Fan Clutch Installed...
Cost $78 at NAPA. I placed some kraft paper in front of the fan to protect the radiator, but there was plenty of room to maneuver and it went pretty smoothly.
The article about the danger of improperly stored fan clutches may be obsolete. The instructions with mine said that the fan would recover from being stored upright and would work fine after a little bit--and that's what I saw with this one.
A big relief in the noise department!
__________________
Airstream OCD...there is no cure!
1983 Classic 310 Motorhome.
AIR 15765
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05-29-2008, 02:18 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1984 31' Airstream310
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,094
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What can happen when a fan clutch engages inappropriately? I just had mine replaced on our Dakota, and it engages a lot when it should not (at starting, initial take-off, and taking off from a light or stop sign). It seems to work correctly otherwise. I have to go on an 1,800 mile trip starting tomorrow, the dealership did not order the part in to fix it (I took it back in enough time) because the foreman wanted a "second opinion" from the guy who did the work. He assured me that there would be no problem on my trip (What!?! He originally said he wasn't sure of what could be causing the problem so he wanted a second opinion!).
What else would make a fan clutch engage like this? And will it hurt my truck on a 3-day, 1,800-mile trip???
This makes me very nervous, but I really have no choice.
Susan
__________________
"Despite the cost of living, have you noticed how popular it remains?"
1984 310 Limited Motor Home "The Rockin' A"
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06-01-2008, 07:17 AM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
Fairbanks
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 237
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Our fan started to be always "on"... any tips? what should I do? Thanks
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06-01-2008, 07:43 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2011 34' Classic
Westchester Cty.NY
, / Miami FL
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,122
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vehicle? engine? electric or clutch?
__________________
Ricky
2012 F150 Super Crew 5-1/2' bed Ecoboost 4x4 3.73 elec. lock diff. Propride hitch
give life. kidney & pancreas transplant 9/9/06
Ingrid-my unofficial '"World's Oldest Streamer" 1909-2008 R.I.P.
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06-01-2008, 12:09 PM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
Fairbanks
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 237
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1989 345 LE with the Chevy 454 . AM not sure what you mean by "electic or clucth?"
The way it all started:
We were driving, and the fan would come on and off (as it should) then suddenly it just went into a really "high" gear -sounded twice as loud and stayed there the whole rest of the trip.
A few days later, the same thing happened....
Now it seems on, and loud, all the time....
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06-01-2008, 04:52 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Chris,
You're definitely going to have to replace your fan clutch. I'm fairly certain you can get the clutch from most good parts houses. Its something I haven't as yet had to replace on our 310 so I can't give real good advise. I know there are a bunch of posts on the forum about replacing it.
I'm kinda guessing here but I'm pretty sure you can replace it by working from inside the motorhome (which is good because you can run the roof top A/C while working!). You'll have to lay on top of the engine and work mostly by feel. I believe there should be four bolts holding the fan to the clutch and four more bolts holding the clutch to the water pump.
I always carry and nice soft mat that I can lay on top of the engine. Makes it a lot more comfortable to work that way.
Hopefully someone will chime in with more specific directions.
Good luck!
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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06-01-2008, 09:17 PM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
Fairbanks
, Alaska
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 237
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hey Brad, you mention "water pump". do you know where the water for that pump is? I found a black container near where the washer fluid container is...could that be "it?" what kind of fluid goes in there?
Thanks!
Christophe
Also, if anyone has any more advice etc ... could it be a fuse? could it be the thermostat? Where are these?
Thanks!
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06-01-2008, 10:18 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsychris
hey Brad, you mention "water pump". do you know where the water for that pump is? I found a black container near where the washer fluid container is...could that be "it?" what kind of fluid goes in there?
Thanks!
Christophe
Also, if anyone has any more advice etc ... could it be a fuse? could it be the thermostat? Where are these?
Thanks!
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Chris,
There is nothing electrical about the fan clutch. Its purely a mechanical device. The water pump is basically smack dab in the upper center of the front of the engine.
That black container is most likely your power steering fluid reservoir. The fan clutch assembly is located between the radiator and the front of the engine. There are only two ways you're going to be able to see it. The first is to lay on the ground and look up into where all the v-belts (or serpentine belt most likely in your case) are. You should see the fan blades where the fan mounts to is the "fan clutch". The fan clutch in turn bolts to the water pump.
Attached you'll see a fan clutch similar to what should be on your engine. You'll see four mounting holes on the upper round disk, thats where the fan clutch bolts to the water pump. The four mounting holes in the middle are where the fan bolts to the fan clutch.
When you're working on it you'll mostly be working blind, reaching down into the fan area. Won't be a fun task but its definitely doable. I doubt that you'll be able to remove the fan and fan clutch as a complete assembly because of the shrould on the radiator, of course you might get lucky!
My guess is you'll need to unbolt the fan from the fan clutch and just let the fan kind of hang on the fan clutch and then unbolt the fan clutch from the water pump. At that point you can pull the fan clutch away from the water pump and then slip the fan off of the fan clutch. I think once you get a good luck at the front of your engine you'll see what I'm talking about. Be real careful not to bang the fan against the radiator. You could damage the fins on the radiator that way.
Good luck!
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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12-15-2008, 03:09 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford
, Oxfordshire
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,253
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Hi all - I need to buy a new fan clutch for my 250 MH. Vin number is 1GBJP37N0M3301377. Most online stores seem to offer varying options for the P30 chassis, depending on the type of vehicle base e.g. Vin "W" base. For example:
Performance Parts Market - Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - 1991 Chevrolet P30 Fan Clutch
Now, I always assumed my 250 was a "j" base (see VIN 4th digit) which is slightly smaller and lighter than the "k" base commonly seen in classic MHs. Anyhow, the upshot is I don't know which fan clutch to go for. I intend to ship one to the UK, so I need to be sure I get the right one. Can anyone offer any advice here? Most stores seem to offer 3 or 4 types for the different bases. Napa only offer one - perhaps I should go with them. Any advice greatly appreciated.
thanks
Nick
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12-15-2008, 03:29 PM
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#17
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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I would go for the heavy-duty, thermostatically controlled fan clutch.
The non-thermo type is a "dumb" clutch, it doesn't know if the engine is hot or not. The thermostat will allow more fan movement when hot.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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12-15-2008, 06:31 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
Princeton
, New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumatube
What can happen when a fan clutch engages inappropriately? I just had mine replaced on our Dakota, and it engages a lot when it should not (at starting, initial take-off, and taking off from a light or stop sign). It seems to work correctly otherwise. I have to go on an 1,800 mile trip starting tomorrow, the dealership did not order the part in to fix it (I took it back in enough time) because the foreman wanted a "second opinion" from the guy who did the work. He assured me that there would be no problem on my trip (What!?! He originally said he wasn't sure of what could be causing the problem so he wanted a second opinion!).
What else would make a fan clutch engage like this? And will it hurt my truck on a 3-day, 1,800-mile trip???
This makes me very nervous, but I really have no choice.
Susan
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It is not uncommon for the clutch fan to engage when leaving a stop light. This is a result of heat building up in the engine compartment while stopped and that heat engaging the fan just as you start up.
Now there are a couple of reasons why a new clutch may do this when another one did not. The specification for these fans state that they may engage from 160 to 190 degrees F. If you new fan is at the lower end of this spec it will react sooner, more often.
Another thing that influences fan operation is the condition of the radiator. If the radiator is dirty inside it will not lower the water temperature as it should and the engine will tend to over heat. This over heating causes hotter air to flow past the radiator and contact the clutch causing the clutch to engage, but at a higher engine temperature.
If the radiator is clogged with bugs and other road dirt again the engine will tend to over heat but the clutch fan will not engage at a normal temperature.
I generally pressure wash the exterior of the radiator once a year and remove the radiator and have it cleaned internally ever couple of years.
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles
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12-15-2008, 06:36 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
Las Vegas
, Nevada
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 626
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If yours has the top air pump, A/C compressor both in the way you'll find the only way to extract the fan clutch with schroud and radiator in place is to first remove the alternator creating a "hole" big enough for extraction. With alternator out of the way its much easier to get at the clutch mounting bolts/nuts also. I recently had a 6 month old clutch fail and really did not want to take everything from the grill back off again from a recent water pump change out.
My alt. is serpentine belt driven and R&R isn't bad at all from inside MH. Add this to everything in above posts and you should be good to go.
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12-15-2008, 06:40 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
Princeton
, New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds
Hi all - I need to buy a new fan clutch for my 250 MH.
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Unless you can not turn the fan freely by hand while the engine is off, a lock clutch, I would suggest you have the radiator cleaned first. There is almost nothing in the clutch fan that can go bad. It is an oil fill dual fan converter with a bimetallic locking cam.
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles
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