Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[56 Flyg Cld]

Copy That !

[docflyboy]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

Thanks Brian. Last year in Estes Park my cousins showed me the finer points of fly fishing. Got interested and bought a rod and some flies. Practiced in the yard until our Calico got more interested than a fish would. Moved down to the creek behind the house and snapped a few flies off before going back to the videos. Have a trip planned to Bull Shoals in September. The White River has a lot of trout. We’ll see. I may have to go back to worms and an Abu Garcia reel. That fly box should last forever.

Bubba let me know when you go to the White River. My son and I like to fly into Gaston's and do some fly fishing usually once a Summer. Would like to meet you. We might bring the Caravel and use it as an aluminum tent. Jerry

[Bubba L]

Jerry, I PM’d you with dates. I’m a newbie at trout fishing. But it’s fishing and that’s what I like. Thanks

[Bubba L]

The air conditioner we installed was a 14,000 BTU Dometic Turbo Blizzard and the compressor just froze up. As I understand, Dometic will not just sell me a new condenser. My wife has always wanted me to install a mini split due to its incredibly quiet cooling, but I've been resistant because I didn't want to see a condenser on the outside, but now a mini-split may be more economically feasible.

My trailer is not very conducive to putting the condenser on the tongue because there is 31" between the front skin of the trailer and the center of the ball; I cannot move the jack and tanks forward sufficiently to accommodate the condenser and its air flow requirements.


I also cannot put it on the bumper because I like the original license plate light and don't want to cover it with a condenser; there is only 16" from the bottom of the license plate to the top of the bumper. Besides, I have the sewer stuff in the bumper trunk.


If I have to modify something on the outside to receive a condenser, I want to camouflage it as much as possible. On the inside, I'd like to hide the air handler inside a modified head locker. I'd like to be able to vent it for intake air and, if possible, create a plenum to direct cool air to my existing ductwork.

I've just begun to research and correspond.
Appreciate any ideas.

[57Vintage]

The only thing I could think of was to mount a horizontal lp tank in place of your spare tire carrier to have the room to mount the unit up front.

I browsed a couple split units to see dimensions thinking maybe you could spread the tanks farther apart and mount the outside unit front to back instead of side to side (since most of those units show an offset fan to the left), but I didn't see any short enough to fit between the shell and jack.

Hope you find a solution.

[docflyboy]

Bubba- I think that calls for thinking outside the box. I saw this video a couple years back and was intrigued by it. It's the conversion of a small window air conditioner to a "split" as a DIY project.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXgHIrFqm9o

I think this probably worked in his Sprinter, because there isn't much vibration to deal with if you set the unit somewhere mid-wheelbase. I'm really concerned about putting anything on the back of the trailer, because, I can see how much it moves around through my rear view mirror. Forums talk about needing to stabilize capillary tubes and other things somewhat delicate with globs of silicone.

Another thought is to take a casement window unit and splitting it. Or at least splitting it on an airflow basis. I like the casement unit because the width would fit in one of our closets. They are through wall type units and fit between a stud in residential construction. You might think about moving the condenser up near your ceiling and exhausting through a Refrigerator roof vent and bringing cooling air in from the side with a louver. You'd still have a clean roof, and few might pick up on the extra fridge roof vent. Here's the top rated casement window unit according to the never biased NY Times. https://assets.ajmadison.com/ajmadis...22s1_specs.pdf

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by 57Vintage

The only thing I could think of was to mount a horizontal lp tank in place of your spare tire carrier to have the room to mount the unit up front.

I browsed a couple split units to see dimensions thinking maybe you could spread the tanks farther apart and mount the outside unit front to back instead of side to side (since most of those units show an offset fan to the left), but I didn't see any short enough to fit between the shell and jack.

Hope you find a solution.

Thanks Harold. I understand the direction you’re heading. Touringdan is installing a horizontal behind the condenser on the tongue. I could install one where the spare tire carrier is located but would need a deflector for road debris. I will add that to the possibility list. Take care

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by docflyboy

Bubba- I think that calls for thinking outside the box. I saw this video a couple years back and was intrigued by it. It's the conversion of a small window air conditioner to a "split" as a DIY project.

I think this probably worked in his Sprinter, because there isn't much vibration to deal with if you set the unit somewhere mid-wheelbase. I'm really concerned about putting anything on the back of the trailer, because, I can see how much it moves around through my rear view mirror. Forums talk about needing to stabilize capillary tubes and other things somewhat delicate with globs of silicone.

Another thought is to take a casement window unit and splitting it. Or at least splitting it on an airflow basis. I like the casement unit because the width would fit in one of our closets. They are through wall type units and fit between a stud in residential construction. You might think about moving the condenser up near your ceiling and exhausting through a Refrigerator roof vent and bringing cooling air in from the side with a louver. You'd still have a clean roof, and few might pick up on the extra fridge roof vent. Here's the top rated casement window unit according to the never biased NY Times. https://assets.ajmadison.com/ajmadis...22s1_specs.pdf

Jerry, the video gives me yet more ideas. From what I understand, HVAC units all work on the same principle. So, to understand the functionality of how all the components work is what I need to work on. We’re going to take the 66 out for a few days. I want to see how many limbs I can catch with my fly rod on the Llano River. I need time to start processing the information I’ve been receiving. Thanks again for the interest and input. I’ll post any progress, or failures, we experience. Thanks

[docflyboy]

You're going to like fly fishing. It's the best hobby I ever took up. Happens in pretty places, but doesn't cost as much as loosing a golf bet.

[steinVT]

Bubba, I have been doing some thinking about adding an air conditioner to our Safari and I don't want it on the roof. We have had some hot days already this year. Not hot by Texas standards, but way too hot for Vermont.

I still am intrigued with the idea of mounting a small home AC under a bed. That's really the only space I have left. The thought would be to put it on a sliding track, so it could be "deployed", hanging the condenser outside of the trailer. You could make it look like another service door. Then the condensate could just drain on the ground. The trick would be in sealing around the edges and moving the cold air. I was think using an axial blower like what is used for indoor grow tents to duct it though the closet and out vents near the ceiling.

Originally Posted by docflyboy

I think this probably worked in his Sprinter, because there isn't much vibration to deal with if you set the unit somewhere mid-wheelbase.

Jerry, interesting video, thanks for posting. Have you heard of problems with residential units due to road vibration?

I didn't care much for this guys installation and wonder how many miles before he picked up a rock or had it fall off and ran over it? - Mark

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by steinVT

Bubba, I have been doing some thinking about adding an air conditioner to our Safari and I don't want it on the roof. We have had some hot days already this year. Not hot by Texas standards, but way too hot for Vermont.

I still am intrigued with the idea of mounting a small home AC under a bed. That's really the only space I have left. The thought would be to put it on a sliding track, so it could be "deployed", hanging the condenser outside of the trailer. You could make it look like another service door. Then the condensate could just drain on the ground. The trick would be in sealing around the edges and moving the cold air. I was think using an axial blower like what is used for indoor grow tents to duct it though the closet and out vents near the ceiling.


Jerry, interesting video, thanks for posting. Have you heard of problems with residential units due to road vibration?

I didn't care much for this guys installation and wonder how many miles before he picked up a rock or had it fall off and ran over it? - Mark

Mark, continuing to do the thinking bit and eliminating the unreasonable. I talked to an AC guy today and ran some ideas by him. My initial thought was like Jerry was heading. Separate the compressor from the condenser and shrink the size of the condenser shroud. The AC guy said the blower condenser also cools the compressor. Right now we are considering two 6.5 lb Worthington aluminum tanks, placing those next to the front of the trailer on the tongue, then placing the condenser between the front of those just behind the jack. I would make a polished aluminum shroud to cover the tanks in transit. The air handler I would place where the rear head locker is and build a Baltic birch headlocker to hide the unit. When in use we would open the headlocker door. I thought about using the headlocker as a plenum and let it blow into the existing duct/registers I already have in place. We are still in the thinking/planning stage. I really need to sit down with a refrigeration engineer. To me, anything built by man can be modified by man to suit the purpose in a different configuration. We also considered placing the condenser on a slide track on the tongue and sliding it laterally for air flow when in use. Don’t know if this makes any sense. But I’m not throwing in the towel yet. I’ll keep you posted

[docflyboy]

I think an A/C unit is vibration by definition. A lot of engineering must go into reducing the noise and vibration. I just think our trailers move around a little more than his Sprinter, which weight probably 8,000 lbs on a 144" wheelbase. I had a wine cellar unit have the most horrendous low freq vibration, only to fail at the 3 year mark. I know there are a lot of aftermarket ad on automotive/truck/off road components available, but one would need a refrigeration engineer to size all the components. The slide out window unit offers the least downside, but cold air falls, not rises.

[TouringDan]

Bubba- How about locating the 10 Lb aluminum horizontal propane tank on top of the mini split compressor on the tongue.

Dan

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

Bubba- How about locating the 10 Lb aluminum horizontal propane tank on top of the mini split compressor on the tongue.

Dan

Thanks Dan. I’ll have to look at that and do some measuring. I just need to make sure the height does not encroach on the bottom of the rock guard. When we open the rock guard we have a cover that matches the awning we slip on so this would shade the unit and keep the rain off while running.

[TouringDan]

Bubba- The compressor unit is 22” high + 1” for the isolator + 10.5” for the 10lb tank = 33.5”. That is going to be too high I believe.

My Tradewind ball is 35” from the shell. The manual jack is 26” from the shell. I suspect on your whaletail manual jack (if you had one) it would be 24” from the shell. The compressor cabinet is 13” deep +10.5” for a vertical or horizontal 10 Lb tank = 23.5”. This just might work. Maybe move the propane tank when you are operating the mini split if the tank affects performance. I believe you said that you only need propane for the stove and the water heater, so minimal propane usage.

Dan

[goshawks00]

Or extend the tongue out some.

[57Vintage]

Have you come across these marine units from MarinAir? They are really compact.

https://www.youtube.com/user/CoastalClimate/videos

[docflyboy]

Bubba- this blog has a real nice write up on using the Dometic Cool Cat. Looks like the downside is the cost of the install kit, but it would be engineered for quietness and handling the vibrations and shocks of going down the road in a travel trailer. It was posted by forum member Annieairstrm. I looked at it initially, but decided on the get 'er done matra and am going with the rooftop for now. Maybe something like this on the next go around. annieairstreamrestoration.blogspot.com Keep us posted, Jerry

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by goshawks00

Or extend the tongue out some.

We thought about extending the tongue. To extend it to the length o would need to keep the tanks in from of the mini split condenser and have the required air flow, I would need to extend the tongue by about a foot. To reconfigure the tongue to give me that distance may look a bit out of whack. But that may wind up being the only option. Thanks

[docflyboy]

Bubba-I watched some of the videos on the Marinair unit, and it is water cooled, as in sea water, but it would clearly be possible to put a radiator and fan someplace like your spare tire carrier, or put a pex loop in your fresh water tank and put the heat into your fresh water for your shower, or exhaust the heat with a radiator. This might be my unit for the Continental Kit idea, since radiators come in more size choices than Condensor coils, and you could over size it and it would be no engineering feat to get it right. I haven't priced them yet, but this might change me away from get 'er done and a rooftop unit. Jerry