Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[coloradoup]

Bubba,
I won't get that thing installed until next year I suppose. It is sitting in my garage though. I'm looking forward to finding out how well it works.

[64 Porsche]

Hey Bubba, finally finished my polishing on my 55 whaletail and installed new glass in windows, now installed. Started to put hardware on that i tediously cleaned and polished, to find out that 3 of the crank gears are stripped, right when you get to the point of closure. Any thoughts on where to get parts, other than VT replacements that are not very original looking. Was thinking i may have to taked them apart and make my own, unless you can save the day. thanks Randy

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by 64 Porsche

Hey Bubba, finally finished my polishing on my 55 whaletail and installed new glass in windows, now installed. Started to put hardware on that i tediously cleaned and polished, to find out that 3 of the crank gears are stripped, right when you get to the point of closure. Any thoughts on where to get parts, other than VT replacements that are not very original looking. Was thinking i may have to taked them apart and make my own, unless you can save the day. thanks Randy

Randy, I looked around online and thought there are some that are close, yet not exact. I’m assuming you have the Hehr Standard that has the center bar. Colonial, Woodland and McMaster-Carr are a few that have operators. Also, you may want to give Dan Piper a call at www.vintagecampers.com. Or Out of Doors Mart. Dan has located a couple of items for me before. Lotsa luck and sorry I couldn’t save the day for you. Let’s see some pictures of your polished 55.

[Airspry]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

You’re right. I’ll be screening the front jalousie removable screened frame today. I’ll have to use wooden spacers to keep from distorting the framing during the screen install. That .009 galvanized screen is stiff stuff. With the other windows, I kept a speed square handy and checked for 90s as I screened. Thanks for bringing that up for others. Bubba

Thank you for sharing all of this information.

Yesterday, I was wondering why our back window is out of square. I had loosened the screen. That is probably the problem. Also, the galvanized screen is on back order at VTS. Does anyone have ideas for another source?

[Bubba L]

I’ll look around for the .009 galvanized screen. It is hard to find. Unfortunately, it has to be that stiff to remain in the frame with crimping only and no spline. Bubba

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Airspry

Thank you for sharing all of this information.

Yesterday, I was wondering why our back window is out of square. I had loosened the screen. That is probably the problem. Also, the galvanized screen is on back order at VTS. Does anyone have ideas for another source?

OK, I think I found a supplier for the galvanized screen. Look on Vintage Trailer Gaskets web site. They seem to have it in stock. I have dealt with Robert when needing gaskets. I think it is part #0102. You will also need the offset roller, part #0103. Good luck

[Peter417]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

To convert the front dining area to a bed, I had considered using a telescoping pedestal to drop the table down to the bed level, but I was concerned about complaints about the sturdiness of the pedestals. My plan now is to build a typical gaucho style bed in the front by adding short slides to the front edge of the seats. When extended 3" they will support the dining table in the bed position. The table will attach under the front window using a VTS wall mount and there will be a folding leg to support the table in the dining position. To convert to the bed, the leg is retracted and the table removed from the wall mount and lowered to rest on the wooden slides at bed level.
Walter of Wabash slides were used extensively in our 1966 Safari to extend the gaucho seats into beds. The slide is a very sturdy wooden mechanism that is actually very easy to make out of 3 pieces of wood. You basically have two pieces of wood attached by and sliding over a center dowel. This is how I make them or you can buy them from VTS.

Cut two 1.5" x .75" pieces of hardwood to the desired length then a dovetail slot has to be made down the center of each piece. A dovetail router bit on a router table would be optimal, but since I don't have one I used a table saw to make the dovetail slots. To make the slots on a table saw, I positioned the blade as far as it would slant. I adjusted the fence and debt of the blade and ran the piece of wood through to create one side of the dovetail slot. Then flipped the piece around to cut the other side of the dovetail. Lastly, I re-positioned the blade to a straight cut, adjusted the debt and fence and cleaned out the center of the slot. I also used a wood chisel to smooth out the slot. The same method is used to create the center hourglass shaped dowel. The length of the center dowel is determined by how much you want the slide to extend. The shorter the dowel, the longer the extension. To assemble, slide the dovetailed pieces over the dowel and make sure they slide smoothly; you may have to use dry silicone or beeswax to get a really smooth slide. You have to add a stop at each dovetail end so that the dovetailed pieces don't slide off the dowel. For a temporary stop, I use screws as shown; however, for final assembly I will make the stop out of a piece of the dowel because the screw doesn't provide any support.
Attachment 326647 Attachment 326648

Attachment 326649 Attachment 326650

Attachment 326651 Attachment 326652

I have found a great product for wood slides. I have used this on my old dresser. I used to have to use to hands to open and close it, pulling both handles on each side. With this tape on all the rub points, I can open and close it one handed. The difference is pretty incredible.

https://www.rockler.com/nylo-tape-fr...wer-slide-tape

[Bubba L]

Thanks for the information. A lot of the 50s trailers used a single, centered under-mount drawer slide. It was a 3/4” wide strip of wood mounted to the bottom of the drawer that slid in a wooden slot in the framing. I made our 55 kitchen drawers the same way. Since it’s wood sliding on wood, you get friction. This nylo-tape would solve the problem. I’ll give it a try as soon as the temperature drops below 100. Thanks for posting the information.

[Bubba L]

Just a quick update.

The mini split has worked flawlessly. We did have an unexpected incident that turned out to be normal ops. We were camping in freezing/near freezing temps and the heater made a knocking sound and unexpectedly stopped, then started again several minutes later. Apparently, the unit stopped to automatically defrost the coils before continuing.

Recently we had an issue with one of the Maxxair fans where the roof vent lift operator shattered into multiple pieces. There was no apparent reason and we read online that others have experienced this too. We replaced the ~ $30 part and it is now working fine again. If you have to change this part out, be sure to follow the instructions that come with the part; the YouTube videos skip some important steps.

I received a beginner's 3D printer for Christmas and we are learning how to design and print. Here is my 3D version of an Airstream "thingy".


It's been a few years and we are considering repolishing. ConiferDavid's experience with a BuffPro has intrigued us as has Boxite's use of an emulsion of WD40 and water to maintain the shine. Stay tuned.

[dbj216]

Hi Bubba L: We call them "wedgies" in Colorado. And we make them with a saber saw, not a fancy 3D printer. We are just rather primitive mountain men who like old Airstreams over old tents.

David

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by dbj216

Hi Bubba L: We call them "wedgies" in Colorado. And we make them with a saber saw, not a fancy 3D printer. We are just rather primitive mountain men who like old Airstreams over old tents.

David

David, don’t ever think I have a clue as to how that 3-D printer works, because I don’t. Stephanie is the one who has the patience and computer knowledge to understand it. I use leftover mesquite and cherry wood to make them the same way you do. I like old Airstreams too, but not so much polishing as you do.

[coloradoup]

Nice work.
Place me on the list for one when you start up production! Our mini split is working awsome as well. We haven't actually got the trailer camping ready yet but use it while I work on the trailer. I couldn't imagine using anything else.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by coloradoup

Nice work.
Place me on the list for one when you start up production! Our mini split is working awsome as well. We haven't actually got the trailer camping ready yet but use it while I work on the trailer. I couldn't imagine using anything else.

Glad to hear about your mini split. I wish they would get popular enough in the RV sector to warrant one of the manufacturers designing one specifically for an RV. Doesn’t seem like a lot of them are being retrofitted for trailers. But then again, it seems like the vintage Airstream renovation projects have dramatically dropped in numbers. We’ll see. Keep us posted on your progress and maiden voyage.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

Bravo on the design.


That was a great idea to 3D print. The shape you have will work really well. About ten years ago I made a trailer door suicide prevention device of similar shape and thickness from birch plywood. The contact edge is cushioned with 66-68 window seal. The sponge rubber grips well. The shock-cord lanyard cinches the Thingy in place. Keeps it from tipping up and un-inserting itself. With ten years of field testing, I wouldn’t change the shape.

I learned of the device’s importance the hard way. Broke my door within the first five miles of 1100+mi RT recovery mission. Got home with a broken branch and roll of duck tape.

Wish I’d known an ounce of prevention would have avoided de-skinning, welding and reinforcing the porous pot-metal quality cast aluminum frame. It was an arduous TIG experience… Shrinks like a scared turtle. Much wiser to employ a prevention device.

You have a great product. I don’t think aerowood made a dime on his fabulous dent roller, but it was a kind and generous offering to Airstream Re-Fabricators. Maybe you can zip your file to those interested and able.

I have a folder with images of dozens of different interpretations of door suicide preventors. I think some folks find pride in their ingenious solutions.

[dbj216]

aluminuminum: You made it through another MI winter, congratulations. I trust all is well with you and yours. Here in Colorado we still have quite a bit of snow on the ground, but it is evaporating rapidly now. I still have 2' in front of my shop door. The Airstreams are trapped inside.

Here is a photo of my 75 Overlander 27' door after I forgot to set the deadbolt and towed it to a rally. It is rather sickening to see in the mirror that the door is open while going down the highway. The door straightened out a good inch both top and bottom. I looked real sad at the vintage Airstream rally and a few of the fells came to my campsite and repaired the door. We drilled out all the rivets in the interior skins, wrapped two ratchet straps around the door, and pulled it back to shape. Then we drilled new holes and reattached the skins. I was very thankful. These vintage Airstream geezers are real craftsmen.

I did make a wedgie for my Overlander. Belts and suspenders.

David

[RankAm]

From Aluminium:

That was a great idea to 3D print. The shape you have will work really well. About ten years ago I made a trailer door suicide prevention device of similar shape and thickness from birch plywood. The contact edge is cushioned with 66-68 window seal. The sponge rubber grips well. The shock-cord lanyard cinches the Thingy in place. Keeps it from tipping up and un-inserting itself. With ten years of field testing, I wouldn’t change the shape.

Will you please explain (or provide images) of the shock cord and how it works to snug and hold the block in place?


Many thanks.


Hank

[Bubba L]

Aluminuminum,

Different door handles require different designs; you have to get a little creative to make it work. Below Wally is holding his original design. The original design would not work with our '55 handle, so I had to come up with what is shown below.

Good luck!

[mimiandrews]

Bubba, your craftsmanship always amazes me.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by mimiandrews

Bubba, your craftsmanship always amazes me.

Thanks for the compliment Mimi. If I didn’t keep things simple, I wouldn’t be able to do it. Hope all is well with you and yours.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

To fasten the lanyard I use a girth hitch, but a better sailor might use a fancier knot. It is cinched tightly with a device called a cord lock. Which I also use to tighten my shoelaces.

Looks to me like the 3D printed Thingy fits the single-hinge ‘65 thru ‘72 door for sure.

Southern Michigan (Where I’m “from”) had a very mild Winter. Was able to get a lot of codgering done on my 1968 tow-vehicle out in my gravel driveway. We’re having beautiful early Spring weather. Can’t wait for my “shade-tree” to leaf out...


Here’s a never before disclosed fact … Back in my yout’, 23yo me lived in Boulder County for fifteen years ‘73 - ‘88. Went into the forest with an F350 and an 071 Stil, felled dead-standing beetle-kill ponderosa pine. Had it saw-milled in Ward. Then, with the aid of US Government instruction manual called “How to Build a Wood-frame House”, I Wood-butchered together a cabin overlooking Boulder Creek on the Eldora side of Nederland. After that I moved down near Lafayette, but was constantly hassled by the Sheriff for having too many Volkswagens in my yard, so I ran myself out of town… back to the Great Lakes.

Yes, it seems there are fewer ongoing vintage restoration threads published on Airforums these days. I miss them. Difficult for me to identify with First World Airstream complaints about overheating projection TVs, insufficient towel heater temperatures, and the dreadful loose cabinet screw. Maybe with Spring we’ll see a resurgence of the “The Vintage Airstream Asylum” artisans, or is it artisinsanes?


.