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Old 05-26-2019, 03:25 PM   #21
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2003 25' Classic
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First thing to ck...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmitchell View Post

I sure appreciate the fast responses, and the idea about the internal fan, which we will purchase.

My next thread will be to inquire about the necessity to slam the door on our Classic for it to close solidly. I’m hoping for an adjustment, or other solution. The light above it already intermittently loses its ground contact and turns off, which I think is due to this....
Are the 'stabilizers' down? Does it close easier with them up? Too much 'stabilization' can cause the frame to twist causing the need to slam.

Bob
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Old 05-26-2019, 05:55 PM   #22
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J’,

Did you turn on the fridge about a day or more before you packed up and left town? The fridge takes quite while to cool, especially on electric. More amps will make no difference so long as it gets what it needs. It is a lot less than 15 amps. If you load any fridge with a lot of warm stuff, it will raise the temp a lot for a while. RV fridges are not as efficient as residential ones, so they take some time to cool. If the sun is on the fridge side, it will take longer.

We are all dumb sometimes. Learning any RV is a steep learning curve. You haven’t hit anything, so all is good.

Bob’s answer about the door is the most likely problem. Airstreams torque easily. Make sure the latches are not sticking out slightly and making the door hard to close. The deadbolt on ours had no grease on the inside and stuck badly until I greased it. Some WD40 on the hinges will make them work better sometimes. Is the screen door working properly? Is the threshold screwed down properly? Are the seals properly positioned?
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:33 AM   #23
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Hi, If the coach is level, next be sure there is good air circulation all around. Don't over pack. Best of luck.
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:00 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmitchell View Post
Hi Friends! It turns out that was it! We reset to #5 before lunch, came back in and it was 34 degrees. We somehow read the instructions wrong.Attachment 341710

I told my fellow RV friend who we are camping with and he said to spell out “ID-10-T” on the ground (see attached photo). Note: he is the one rocking the purple Crocs, hmm. It turns out that about summed up my response on this one.

I sure appreciate the fast responses, and the idea about the internal fan, which we will purchase.

My next thread will be to inquire about the necessity to slam the door on our Classic for it to close solidly. I’m hoping for an adjustment, or other solution. The light above it already intermittently loses its ground contact and turns off, which I think is due to this....
I had the same problem on our Classic. What cured it was tightening the screws on the inside of the door holding the lock mechanism. I had to go back and tighten it a couple of more times for it to seat properly.
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:17 PM   #25
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Door

I learned something on the interior fridge fan. Thanks Bob!

Bob is also correct on the stabilizers do not over tighten. I never use the electric drill I feel them touch and thats about all the tension I apply.

However did a well meaning someone raise the trailer jack with the rear stabilizers still down.

That is a instant tweek of a good factory door alignment. I know because ours closed one hand with just a push when it was first delivered from the factory.

When we picked it up for delivery day it was you gotta slam this REAL HARD it’s the way they are!!

NOOOOOOOOOO one trip later to Jackson Center and it shuts with a gentle push. Jackson Center said WHO THE HECK was messing with this door striker? It’s still a secret-


Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Are the 'stabilizers' down? Does it close easier with them up? Too much 'stabilization' can cause the frame to twist causing the need to slam.

Bob
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Old 05-28-2019, 04:57 AM   #26
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Our fridge usually cooled more quickly on propane vs electric, but the fridge fan definitely helps!

Thanks everyone for the tips on the door slam - I replaced the seals around our screen and main door on both of our trailers, so they were a little more resistant to closing initially, but became easier as the strips settled in. I'll also be greasing and hand tightening them though.
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:24 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
One of these helps us a LOT.

Bob
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That is the Valterra fridge fan, amazon link here:

https://amzn.to/2QuzqPB
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:50 AM   #28
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I use a dual fan inside the fridge, especially when outside temp above 85. I also rigged a 12v computer fan to blow on the coils behind fridge.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Ref...gAAOSw6D1bAX85
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Old 05-28-2019, 08:18 AM   #29
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we install these circulations fans in out fridge, they are not high speed thus make little noise.

since the install, the temp is very consistent especially when the fridge is full
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:50 AM   #30
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Try closing the door by pulling on just the screen handle (make sure screen door is hooked to metal door!). Seems to work better than closing using the door handle itself.
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:05 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWRVR View Post
Our 2014 International Serenity 25's refrigerator struggled to stay below 48 degrees on electric or propane. I added a vent exhaust fan and interior circulation fan to no avail. Our 2015 Classic 30's refrigerator stays in the mid 30s with the freezer staying around 1 degree or below. This tells me there was a mechanical or electrical malfunction with the Serenity's refrigerator.


We have a 14 Land yacht w/ same problem - any resolutions? When hooked to battery while driving it cools just fine. Looking for some solutions or ideas on what to try.
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:11 PM   #32
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Just back from one of the hottest camping trips I have made in awhile......it was over 100 degrees every day in Charleston, SC while staying at the AFB.

My frig stays set on 3 and it works like a charm. Only thing different, I noticed more condensation dripping from the overflow tray onto the pad.
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:50 AM   #33
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Use separate thermometers

Are the temperature readings you are referring to from the digital reading on the Dometic fridge panel?

Sometimes, I get a best reading of 44 degrees +/-, but not when the ambient temp is in the mid 50's like your situation.

I rely on separate thermometers in both the refrigerator and the freezer. The brand I use is Taylor. My readings from the Taylor devices are usually lower than that from the Dometic fridge panel.
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:15 AM   #34
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I would expect serval degrees variation in temps between different thermometers since most of them are pretty cheap.
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