Glitchy AC on new 2015

[Hogfan]

Hi everyone,

We have a 2015 27'FB with two AC's (much appreciated about now here in TX!).

But-- our front smaller unit (bedroom) has been glitchy since we purchased it a month ago. We had it at North Dallas RV for 3 weeks and they seem to think there is absolutely nothing wrong. But there is clearly a big difference between the two units. I understand that the front unit (zone 1) is only 13,500BTU rather than 15,000 BTU so I don't expect the same power/volume in airflow, but the actual temperature is not nearly as cold.

You can set it on say 65 and it'll be nice and COLD for a little while, but then the hourglass symbol kicks on on the thermostat and then the airflow is more like fan temp and no longer very cold. Then it kicks back in (you can hear it) and it will be cold again for a while. Then repeat.

Something is definitely not right, but we cannot identify what exactly.

Would love your thoughts or ideas!!! We can take it elsewhere for service, but would love some idea if what could be going on if anyone else has experienced this before?

Thanks so much!!!

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Hogfan

Hi everyone,

We have a 2015 27'FB with two AC's (much appreciated about now here in TX!).

But-- our front smaller unit (bedroom) has been glitchy since we purchased it a month ago. We had it at North Dallas RV for 3 weeks and they seem to think there is absolutely nothing wrong. But there is clearly a big difference between the two units. I understand that the front unit (zone 1) is only 13,500BTU rather than 15,000 BTU so I don't expect the same power/volume in airflow, but the actual temperature is not nearly as cold.

You can set it on say 65 and it'll be nice and COLD for a little while, but then the hourglass symbol kicks on on the thermostat and then the airflow is more like fan temp and no longer very cold. Then it kicks back in (you can hear it) and it will be cold again for a while. Then repeat.

Something is definitely not right, but we cannot identify what exactly.

Would love your thoughts or ideas!!! We can take it elsewhere for service, but would love some idea if what could be going on if anyone else has experienced this before?

Thanks so much!!!

Your remote temperature sensor (assuming you have one) might be in the wrong place. If it directly in the path of the air coming from the evaporator, it would definitely mess with the operation.

You could also have an issue with mixing of the return and exhaust air within the air distribution box. This could be causing evaporator icing, which would also do strange things to your performance since the freeze sensor placed in the evaporator will turn off the compressor until the evap. gets above 34ºF.

Next time it's running for about 10 minutes (Zone 1 only), try measuring the temperature at the return air grills. Then measure it at the outflow from one of the vents. You should see 18-22ºF difference between the 2 readings. If the difference doesn't fall in this range, you DO have a problem!!

[renderit]

Also, if you are setting it at 65 it probably will ice. I would suggest trying it at 70-72 and see what happens. If it can shut off on the cycle instead of forcing it to run it may help the unit cope with the inside/outside difference.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Ours has always worked better on manual mode set at 70* & medium fan speed.
I've found the lower the fan speed the colder the outlet air, (more absorption time.)

Bob

[Msmoto]

I set my Zone 2 on 75 and Zone 1 on 73.... Or about 2 degrees variation. Fan on auto, except at night I may have Zone 2 on low fan running all night.

I cannot imagine what 65 would be like, but I think this might be asking too much if the outside temp is much over 80. Also, my "mode" is to use "cool" or "heat" making certain both units are on the same mode.

There is a strange air flow design in the dual A/C on mine at least, my rear bedroom receiving more than its share of air.....something I will correct myself....


Ms Tommie Lauer
Greensboro, NC
2015 Serenity 30 RB / 2008 Dodge Cummins 4 X 4
WBCCI #4165 AIR #31871

[Hogfan]

Thanks guys! We'll have it out again in a few weeks and we'll try that out!!! My husband likes it like an ICE BOX, so we'll take it back up to low to mid 70's and see what happens that way!

[Gnorts]

I see you're in Dallas, right? It's humid there, right?

I also think you may be experiencing icing. High ambient humidity in the trailer and a thermostat set at 65 is probably resulting in the compressor being controlled by the ice sensor rather than the thermostat. It might behave much differently with the thermo set at 75.

[Hogfan]

Thanks again everyone!! I think your temptation when testing it out is to "see what it can do" so to speak. 65 is a little aggressive and must be backfiring. We'll have it out in two weekends again and we'll go with the 75 plan and see if that solves our little issue!

[Foiled Again]

Any A/C will struggle when you ask for more than 20 - 25 degrees colder than outside.

I've got a 13.5K in my EB, and it doesn't really cool the bedroom on hot days unless I add a small fan to aid the air circulation. If you're ordering a 1 AC unit, I'd insist on the 15K unit.

Another general observation... I recently saw a brand new fiberglass canned ham style trailer with a regular home A/C installed through the back wall. I've also seen several vintage owners who mount very small A/C window units in the front whenever they need A/C. It's a matter of pulling the screen, propping the window up, sticking the unit in and having a surround made of plywood. A wire to the 15 amp circuit on the post and voila, A/C with no hole in the roof, no elaborate thermostat to go wonky - and a cheap basically disposable 14 lb 8K BTU A/C system.

I'm on a site for 3 more weeks that has 100% sun on the front end of the trailer - I may just go to get a cheap unit - it's something I might need for a max of six to eight weeks in the summer - and it's also something that wouldn't push my generator at all if I'm boondocking. It's also something you could use in a tent or EasyUP in hot weather.

Upgrading to 50 amps feels like OVERKILL to me. I know several people who have a lot of problems with 2 units. The 50 amp cord alone weighs a ton and is as stiff as a log. How many bells and whistles does an Airstream really need? Sometimes simple is more cost effective AND simpler.

[cwf]

Howdy! we are near Austin... Found out that you can freeze up a Penguin II... the 'airbox' design is really crummy... the air doesn't seem to be able to find a way out... another thing.. when an 'ac' unit is running the compressor and fan is moving air, it is working at 'max' output... lowering the temp to, say 50 when the beginning air is 100, is NOT going to make it 'cool faster'... the AC either is cooling or it isn't..

I removed the 'airbox' to do some testing.. guess what? No freezing up!!

Since our unit is completely 'manual', I measure the temp inside... then I set the temp to where the compressor 'kicks on', plus a little colder on the thermostat.. since there are no number, strictly analog, I 'guess', about 4-6 degrees rotation... then let it run.. time how long it takes before the 'compressor' kicks OFF... When it kicks off, what is the temp on the 'returning' air? That 'delta' gives you a time vs temp change ratio.

If the AC drops the temp 5 degrees in 15 minutes, that is 3 minutes per degree..

That is pretty good, I think, for our AS.. a 34'...

Now, I am 'running' the midship AC, WFO.. (WFO=wide FULL open) during this time, so lots of condensate (water) is running out of both drains.. this also helps with the 'temp drop'...as an AC, by removing moisture from the air, actually gives the 'feeling' of being cooler because your body is able to 'sense' that it is being cooled by the air, when in fact, the 'evaporation' off your body is helping you experience 'cooling' effect.