Visit our Popular Forums

ZoominC6 · 05-09-2007, 11:21 AM

I seem to recall seeing a short discussion on this topic at one time or another but have been unable to relocate it so I'm sorry to be repetitive.

After removal of the rubber mat at the slide-out bumper tray, I've discovered rust spots under the mat. I plan on disgarding the mat, sanding and cleaning the grime and small rust spots. It was suggested by an Airstream dealer I've come to respect that I coat the surface with a good epoxy paint.

Any other suggestions from those who may have gone ahead of me?

Thanks.

Jim & Susan · 05-09-2007, 12:04 PM

How about good ol' POR-15?

JIm

Fyrzowt · 05-09-2007, 12:05 PM

On some of the fire engine compartments that take a lot of abuse and wear, we have used Linex/Rhino lining products with great results.
Dave

Wabbiteer · 05-09-2007, 01:15 PM

Treat the disease not the symptom! Find the source of water PDQ!

ScottW · 05-09-2007, 03:07 PM

This pull out isn't designed to be water tight, as I see it.
One previous post (different thread) suggested sprayon/roll on truck bed liner (available from Wal-mart or NAPA).
That's what I'm doing to mine this week. FWIW

ZoominC6 · 05-09-2007, 03:25 PM

Not designed to be water tight at all and why Airstream put the rubber mat in is beyond me. Thanks for the tip on a purchase location. Have you tried to remove the slide out pan yet? I have yet to investigate that possibility. Thanks again all.

romap · 05-09-2007, 03:47 PM

I have removed the mat too. I sanded, primed and coated the drawer with spay can bed liner (Tempo brand). It is holding up OK, but if it needs to be done again, I will bring it to a professional spray in bedliner location. I purchased flexable snap together vinyl marine grade tiles that are sort of like waffles with holes. There are nubs on the bottom of the tiles that hold them off the surface so that water can evaporate or drain through the holes in the drawer. The tiles keep whatever I have in the drawer out of the water and also profess to be mold and mildew resistant - so far so good - I did the drawer last spring. The tiles were purchased through West Marine online store. I also added 1/4" self stick foam to the face of the drawer where it meets the trailer which cut back drastically on the volume of water that enters the drawer.

The dawer is kept from coming out by two stop bolts. Feel around the rear of the tracks when the drawer is open and you will find them. Remove the bolts and the drawer can be completely removed.

ZoominC6 · 05-09-2007, 04:08 PM

Thanks Ron. This will be the first item on my list of minor items needing attending to.

Bluto · 05-10-2010, 12:53 PM

This is an old thread but I want to wake it up again.
I noticed that the drawer bumper pan is galvanized metal. Does that pos any problem with paints or rubber coating sticking to the surface?
So for the past 3 years has anyone come up with a solution for the pan rusting from inside out??
Mine is new and I want to do whatever is best for prevention of rust in that area.
The idea about the rubber tiles from the marine outlet sounds good (see post 7 above). I wonder how that has worked out for anyone who has tried it?

2airishuman · 05-10-2010, 01:02 PM

my solution was to REMOVE the gray mat a/s puts back there...

it was a TRAP for water and rust started quickly under it.

initially i tried flipping it over (the top is textured) but with little improvement.

also tried spreading OUT the lynx levelers (these are basically LIKE the tiles) but they just trapped water/moisture.

for the most part EVERYTHING stored back there is already rubber or plastic

so without the mat there has been NO more rust...

it's also useful to ENLARGE the 2 small drain holes a bit...

they plug easily with minor debris otherwise.

i considered DIY application of truck bed coatings,

but instead opted to WIPE the box down with boeshield t-9 2-3 times annually.

no more rust, the box is fine.

cheers
2air'

ZoominC6 · 05-10-2010, 02:10 PM

I threw away the factory supplied mat, took some sandpaper to the interior surfacing, then applied the pickup truck bed touch up coating with a roller. Afterwards, I enlarged the drain holes mentioned by 2Air. Works fine for me so far.

Bluto · 05-10-2010, 02:37 PM

Thanks for the tips. In the morning the gray mat will be history and the drain holes will be sized a little larger.

Bluto · 05-11-2010, 04:37 PM

2Air,
I have never used T-9 but have a product called FluidFilm I use on my TV from time to time to prevent rust and lubricate stuff. It sounds like they are similar type products, but I noticed that with the stuff I use, has a tendency to attract dirt since it's a waxy type lube. Is that a problem when you coat your bumper drawer with T-9?
Think a simple car wax or a detail type spray might work? Ever try something like that in the bumper drawer?

2airishuman · 05-11-2010, 05:11 PM

hi b...

i also use fluidfilm but for other applications (i like that stuff!)

it is a wetter/tackier product even after drying.

the boe' t-9 does leave a waxy layer but it's drier and lasts much longer.

(i use it for bikes, aluminum frame kayak, the a/s skin, the receiver, hitch and 100 other alum/steel things...

after application, i WIPE most of the residual out of the drawer anyway.

ANY of the anti rust/corrosion sprays would be helpful, OR any rattle can of paint (there is even 'zinc sprays in a can)

the real key is better drainage and NO MAT to trap water.

the compartment WILL get wet inside from rain pooling at the lip

and especially while ON THE ROAD while raining AND from the hoses stored there...

it is often referred to as the "wet stuff drawer"

the galvanized coating is effective for the most part once the mat is out.

so the spray is just my lazyguy way of adding a bit more protection.
____________

brand new and still VERY clean, consider a more permanent DIY metal coating...

once dry this would SOLVE the insides...

((but the UNDER SIDE is also an issue...

))

a/s REALLY should use somethin' else OR coat the drawer.

cheers
2air'

Bluto · 05-11-2010, 07:59 PM

What you guys are saying about coating the drawer makes sense, I may do that or, try the "lazyguy" way out, and get some T-9 too.
I have just put a coat of wax on the trailer and will probably take a day off to celebrate getting it done. I forgot how much work washing and waxing a trailer can be. Heck, it took a half a day just to get all warning stickers off the windows and parts of the frame and stove, side walls, door, etc,. Next, I'll go underneath to see if anything under there needs attention.

JBinKC · 09-01-2010, 08:09 AM

Friends: I had my drawer "Line-X'ed" because they really prepared the surface well by sanding, etching, priming and then coating it. I could not have done such a good job. While I had the drawer out, I greased the bearings on the drawer rollers and took a hard look inside the compartment. I was totally impressed with the quality of design and the workmanship that goes into building this compartment. Best wishes, John

2airishuman · 09-01-2010, 08:19 AM

excellent report john...

do u mind sharing the approximate cost?

the pictures suggest a very well done final product.

did they drill/enlarge the drainage holes (can't see them in the pix) ?

did the drawer simply LIFT off the tracks

or did it require disassembly from the underside of the stream?

cheers
2air'

dznf0g · 09-01-2010, 09:12 AM

2air,

See the welded on Patch along the side rail at the front edge of the drawer in the above picture? If you reach inside the drawer at that point you will find a 1/2 or 5/16" (I forget) bolt which just "sticks up" and catches the box frame to act as a stop. Pull out thos bols, on either side, and the drawer just rolls out on a garage door track and rollers.

dznf0g · 09-01-2010, 09:27 AM

I am going to try Romap's idea of the 1/4" foam tape. This compartment will never be water tight, but anything to reduce water and debris will make cleanup easier. I also coated with truck bed "paint" (rustoleum brand). Has only been a few months, but so far, so good. If it peels or wears, I'll got the LineX route. I also ran a bead of sealer along the little "shelf", at the rear of the drawer. It is just welded in spots intermittently and water can run between the face of the drawer down into the floor. This reducd the amount of water a lot.
Going to take 2air's suggestion of enlarging the holes too. There are 4. 2 in the front and 2 in the rear corners. Drawer must be removed to get to the front ones.

Larry C · 09-01-2010, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I am going to try Romap's idea of the 1/4" foam tape. This compartment will never be water tight, but anything to reduce water and debris will make cleanup easier. I also coated with truck bed "paint" (rustoleum brand). Has only been a few months, but so far, so good. If it peels or wears, I'll got the LineX route. I also ran a bead of sealer along the little "shelf", at the rear of the drawer. It is just welded in spots intermittently and water can run between the face of the drawer down into the floor. This reducd the amount of water a lot.
Going to take 2air's suggestion of enlarging the holes too. There are 4. 2 in the front and 2 in the rear corners. Drawer must be removed to get to the front ones.

For whatever it's worth, this morning, I took the drawer out, the PO had sprayed the interior with aluminum paint, then put in another piece of carpet.
Under the carpet, the floor of the drawer had begun to rust more than I want to see. My solution was to take my trusty angle grinder with a wire brush, and remove all rust. After that, I used a cold galvanizing primer (Krylon), inside and out.
Next step will be to coat the drawer inside and out with bedliner. I've had very good luck with these bedliner products in the past.
Larry